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significant repeats (Read 2442467 times)

Kingy

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#800 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 01:21:36 pm
That looks about twice as long as Silk Cut or the Big Link! I reckon a route grade would be more appropriate.

Fiend

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#801 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 01:43:56 pm
I don't think anything with multiple shakeouts is in the spirit of bouldering!

Where's a Gaskins V15 when you need one?

cowboyhat

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#802 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 02:47:05 pm
What a fresh debate!

Sloper

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#803 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 02:56:12 pm
Indeed because describing it as Font 8b+ or French 9a would be a radical move.

What about we have a new grading system L, for long.  We could have EL (easy) through to EL extremely long.

SA Chris

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#804 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 03:55:02 pm
It's Wheel Of Life minus a 7C start. So, very long.

so is WoL very, very long then? or very, very, very?

Stubbs

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#805 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 04:01:30 pm
If using bouldering grades there is good enough for Dai Koyamada and Fred Nicole then it's good enough for me.

We don't need a new grading system, we need to say 'fuck that looks like some hard mother fucking rock climbing' (or words to that effect) and leave it at that. 

slackline

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#806 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 04:29:23 pm
Interesting thoughts from Sharma...

Quote from: Chris Sharma
he hardest problems today are either super painful because the holds are so small, or really, really condition dependant... it's not fun anymore... it doesn't really interest me to climb 8C+ or whatever. I think it's difficult to get much further, unless the problems simply get longer, but why not climb a route then instead? On a route, you can have 8A sequences stacked on top of eachother... there's no limit there.

uptown

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#807 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 04:36:40 pm
Bouldering on ropes, I like it.  :)

Stubbs

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#808 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 05:02:44 pm
Why not climb a route instead?

Because i'd rather be able to pull onto to the crux of my boulder problem (like in the cave or Hollow Mountain) and try when I want to, rather than having to dog up a rope and piss someone of by them having to belay me for 2 hours!

andy_e

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#809 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 06:49:37 pm
^This. I like being able to do lots of moves and risk nothing more than a slight pump or maybe a bruised bum. Traverses > Routes.

DaveC

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#810 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 08:39:10 pm


so is WoL very, very long then? or very, very, very?
[/quote]

Went for a look  when we were in the area earlier this year and got tired just walking along it!  :P Yep, it's pretty long.

Carnage

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#811 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2009, 09:41:12 pm
Its a very impressive line, 'in the flesh' so to speak. The start is a bit bum dragging but is a pure line following flakes and ribs. Theres the harder direct finish to be done too. Dai finished up Raveheart (V8) which is kinda to heading out right. The direct finish straight through the roof via Amniotic World V10 is still waiting for someone with ridiculous stamina.

Bonjoy

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#812 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2009, 09:35:01 am
Route or boulder problem, who cares? Like Carnage says itís a very impressive and pure line on amazing rock. Iíd have to say itís one of the most amazing lines Iíve ever seen.

chummer

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#813 Re: significant repeats
November 06, 2009, 03:12:22 pm
Whats the point of really long boulder problems, you may as well just do a route, or better still do a route close to the ground so you can sack off the ropes and that and solo it but to stop you breaking your legs you could just stick to routes that follow really steep low roofs, that would be much better. :whistle:

Krank

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#814 Re: significant repeats
November 06, 2009, 03:22:47 pm
i think theres some good ones in Oz

monkey boy

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#815 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2009, 11:50:41 am
Mina just did molunk (7c) and frogger (7c+/8a) in Brione! Pretty good effort as frogger is very burly and i think molunk has only seen one other female ascent?!

Andy B

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#816 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2009, 11:54:26 am
I remember Molunk feeling quite spanny too.

monkey boy

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#817 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2009, 02:33:15 pm
I remember Molunk feeling quite spanny too.

Tis pretty spanny, think thats why so few ladies have done it!

Doylo

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#818 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2009, 04:46:50 pm
Mina's a beast!

I like the way Mina took 7c+ for Frogger then her boyfriend Kook took 8a  :lol:

monkey boy

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#819 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2009, 03:40:00 pm
Peckett did cherry falls yesterday at almscliff, probably the only dry place in england!!

Was sweet!

Mina has done le piller (another 8a) to!

Both beasts!

north_country_boy

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#820 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2009, 05:26:44 pm
Lancashire's most modest and finest crimper managed to crimp his way up Moffatt's testpiece Evolution earlier today in dismayingly poor conditions! Awesome effort !!

Adam Lincoln

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#821 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2009, 05:37:04 pm
Lancashire's most modest and finest crimper managed to crimp his way up Moffatt's testpiece Evolution earlier today in dismayingly poor conditions! Awesome effort !!

By eck, it was wet at the bottom yesterday, beast!

Andy Harris

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#822 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2009, 06:21:03 pm
A fantastic effort and the 1st repeat in about 10 years or so. The last person to do it was Steve Mac and it's had some high calibre flung at it since without success. Noticeably a certain German 9a+ climber and 8c boulderer who's spent a lot of time on it over 3 trips and still not done it. 8c?

Incidentally I didn't think it possible that someone could climb this route not climbing 1 single move in the way I have always tried it.

Stubbs

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#823 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2009, 06:34:54 pm
Peckett did cherry falls yesterday at almscliff, probably the only dry place in england!!

Was sweet!

Mina has done le piller (another 8a) to!

Both beasts!

 :bow:

north_country_boy

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#824 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2009, 06:35:51 pm
A fantastic effort and the 1st repeat in about 10 years or so. The last person to do it was Steve Mac and it's had some high calibre flung at it since without success. Noticeably a certain German 9a+ climber and 8c boulderer who's spent a lot of time on it over 3 trips and still not done it. 8c?

Very True Indeed, looked ever bit as hard as I would have imagined!

Incidentally I didn't think it possible that someone could climb this route not climbing 1 single move in the way I have always tried it.

T'was Interesting watching both Ryan and Smit try it today, with massively different sequences through most of the bottom 2/3rds!!

Inspirational stuff!!

 

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