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significant repeats (Read 2443486 times)

a dense loner

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#425 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2009, 04:32:46 pm
this isn't the original else we would have been told that kaizen had been repeated. what is this problem "the art of cloning kaizen"? whilst obviously a good effort is this an independant problem? does it have another name? another grade?
on a serious note i did pinch 2 a good few years ago, this isn't strictly true since i used a few of the same holds and found out it was zippy's problem
with regards to pinch 2 moon obviously used the shit polished lf to make it a harder proposition since they were interested in doing eliminate problems on 12 ft sq bits of lime. as a for instance when i first heard of ryans repeat of pinch 2 i was like good effort that must have been hideous to get your lf there. then when he told me how he did it i said that's not pinch 2. this may sound like sour grapes or nonsense but what i'm saying makes absolutely no sense unless you care about little bits of shit rock and preserving the nature of the problem. not having a go at ryan there who as everyone knows is a far better climber than i could ever be, or at sam, it's just that established eliminate problems are exactly that.
anyone who has got pinch 2 ticked without the proper sequence can get to fuck

Probes

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#426 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2009, 04:47:30 pm
No surprise ere. Effort!

nodder

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#427 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2009, 06:33:45 pm
Is that not where it started though?  Not sure but I thought so, Lakes bloc just says the roof direct, missing the crack on the right out.  The line on the topo looks like it comes from there?  :shrug:  Effort either way.

Andy B

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#428 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2009, 06:34:18 pm
with regards to pinch 2 ...

what did ryan do?

I agree with what you say about sticking rigidly to eliminates, although Andy in the guide gives a split grade "depending on who who ask, and exactly how they did it" implying that he thinks that there is more than one correct sequence? I'd be interested to know what [presumably slight] differences there are.

Andy Harris

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#429 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2009, 09:15:08 pm
for those who can be arsed

Orignal sequence
from RH-pinch, LH- slopey crimp
RF- low edge, LF- smear out left (the crucial bit)
then pull through to pinch(RH) fully weighting smear (this is the hard bit)
keeping LFon smear RF smear out right & slap to sloper (LH)

Newer sequence (although this is how Jason did the 3rd ascent circa 95)
from pinch & sloper just jump or lank direct to pinch then as above


Andy B

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#430 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2009, 10:04:57 pm
Nice one. Cheers Andy. Were there any ascents using the left smear without pof?

Probes

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#431 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2009, 10:09:02 am
Is that not where it started though?  Not sure but I thought so, Lakes bloc just says the roof direct, missing the crack on the right out.  The line on the topo looks like it comes from there?  :shrug:  Effort either way.

Samuel rang us last night n wanted me to clear this up a bit. In his words he did Kaizen the Gay way, about Fnt8a+. Nodder the original went off a block at the bottom that has now gone. So this alternate way is a damn site easier. Originally you had a foot lock of the block to get into the roof and then you were basically cutting loose hanging the crimps in the roof and slammin your foot on the ramp. The 'Gay Way' means you are essentially established with feet on ramp already.
Anyway there you go, Personally a fuckin hate the place, the problems are all shit, and... if anyone makes one more eliminate up they should be locked in a padded cell, and condemened for disillusionment. But then im just bitter.

TomP

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#432 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2009, 10:24:01 am
Not sure if it has been repeated directly since the block went but when I went to Woodwell last summer I had a little play on Kaizen. It was still possible to do the start without feet on the ramp (direct start). Can't remember exacly how but there was somewhere to cam a foot and reach the two flat crimps in the roof. It was the crux section where you get that gaston crimp and move your feet over to the ramp that gave me trouble. It's certainly still possible to do it directly from what I can remember.

Probes

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#433 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2009, 10:29:44 am
Yeah its will def still go direct, and prob the same grade, like you say tom the hard bits getting foot onto the ramp. Thus this way is a bit of a cop out. Although a worthy problem if you've ticked the crag and got naff all else to do.  :o

TomP

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#434 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2009, 10:39:00 am
Oh yeah absolutely, not taking anything away from the lad. Still a fine effort. Just in my opinion the crux of Kaizen is moving your feet and pulling in. Just because that block has broken doesn't mean that it's not possible anymore (I should point out that I have only been to woodwell once and tried this for about 15 minutes so my memory is hazy).

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#435 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2009, 10:52:49 am
yer exactly, its tough bit of climbing he's done. But we agreed n in his own words.. 'the gay way'. (no offence intended by way)

nodder

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#436 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2009, 11:38:53 am
cool, thanks for the info. Kaizen the gay way, sounds like a self help book.

Teaboy

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#437 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2009, 04:53:41 pm
Were there any ascents using the left smear without pof?

Andy Brown repeated this 'back in the day' i.e. before 2000 and wouldn't have used pof. I can't say for definite which smear he would have used but he was usually pretty anal about footholds, history, eliminates etc.

clm

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#438 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2009, 06:30:18 pm
When any of you see sam you will be amazed he can lift his burl off the ground at all.  a condom full of pork mince.

a dense loner

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#439 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2009, 06:53:04 pm
probes don't think i was having a 'go' at sam, i wasn't at all. i like the sound of 'kaizen: the gay way'. rings a bell, so to speak


a dense loner

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#440 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2009, 06:57:41 pm
ps regarding p2 ryan just lanked it. who else have we heard about repeating it? jason myers and andy brown...

this is very slightly tongue in cheek :kiss2:

c3po

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#441 Re: significant repeats
June 11, 2009, 08:50:36 pm
Sam said Kiezen was Ft8a+ but he's been working it forever and become misguided, it's Ft8b!  Boom shanka that man!

Kingy

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#442 Re: significant repeats
June 12, 2009, 12:36:12 am
who else have we heard about repeating it?

Fred Rouhling did it about 5 or 6 years ago if memory serves. He didn't know if he used the right holds though  :lol:. hence the need for the new topo. And of course Malc did it in 10 minutes.

Probes

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#443 Re: significant repeats
June 12, 2009, 10:33:45 am
probes don't think i was having a 'go' at sam, i wasn't at all. i like the sound of 'kaizen: the gay way'. rings a bell, so to speak


No i know u werent, was agreein with you.  :thumbsup:

When any of you see sam you will be amazed he can lift his burl off the ground at all.  a condom full of pork mince.

 :lol:

n_man

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#444 Re: significant repeats
June 14, 2009, 09:58:10 am
I always thought that Jason was the first to repeat Pinch 2. Who beat him to it?

Anyway I remember being real impressed when I saw him trying it. He was real close and ate half a pack of chocolate biscuits whilst trying it and kept saying 'I'm just not into all this feeling light stuff!'

Jim

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#445 Re: significant repeats
June 14, 2009, 02:38:56 pm
'I'm just not into all this feeling light stuff!'
me neither

Jaspersharpe

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#446 Re: significant repeats
June 17, 2009, 10:24:55 am

Fiend

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#447 Re: significant repeats
June 17, 2009, 12:46:28 pm
V15 in 10 goes?? I know it's fairly "simple" but even so  :o Big up the Fin.

mark_mcq

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#448 Re: significant repeats
June 17, 2009, 09:25:08 pm
F**king unreal.  :bow:

andy_e

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#449 Re: significant repeats
June 18, 2009, 10:53:20 pm
Are you gonna tell them Stallioni or shall I?

 

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