UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 2445518 times)

carlisle slapper

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 152
  • Karma: +90/-2
#275 Re: significant repeats
April 27, 2009, 08:48:23 pm
by the sounds of it Andy has found far superior beta on the bottom crux section whereby you can now get the crux pocket static, which means that the sitter will be incredibly doable now and the stand up is piss, Andy has also found a better sequence on the top by going slightly out right away from the arete, which is something i have done before as i warm up on that section of wall so its probably worth forgetting my version of keeping to the arete as it is clearly pretty contrived now, That said the line also goes on the LHS to the top the moves are basic and obvious and i've done all but one of them. So this opens up the potential of climbing the whole line on its LHS.

I'd estimate that this is probably soft 8a now if the move to the pocket is at all more reliable as it was the only really hard move on the problem.

That said the sitter into this will now be an amazing 8a+ish line

and the LHS all the way will be an amazing 8b/+ish and the true 'line'.

goes to show how hard it is to find lines which are geniunely hard which force a hard sequence which isn't duff. Especially on sandstone

Watson made the 2nd ascent of Red Dragon too, which is also a good effort and well worth a mention.

Fiend

Online
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 10737
  • Karma: +483/-64
  • Whut
#276 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2009, 09:11:00 am
All good stuff. Better get working on it then Mr Slapper  :)

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6457
  • Karma: +381/-7
#277 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2009, 08:40:51 pm
Louis Armstrong, 4th ascent, Nacho Sanchez

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4607
  • Karma: +100/-27
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#278 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2009, 08:58:54 pm
Louis Armstrong, 4th ascent, Nacho Sanchez

Not a bad few days he has had!

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8645
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#279 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2009, 09:14:28 pm
fucking beasted it once he'd remembered the correct sequence.
Think dobbin has vid, maybe up on vimeo soon?

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6457
  • Karma: +381/-7
#280 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2009, 09:25:37 pm
fucking beasted it once he'd remembered the correct sequence.
Think dobbin has vid, maybe up on vimeo soon?

probably very soon! I'm sure its gettting streamed from the car as we speak.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4607
  • Karma: +100/-27
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#281 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2009, 09:28:03 pm
fucking beasted it once he'd remembered the correct sequence.
Think dobbin has vid, maybe up on vimeo soon?

probably very soon! I'm sure its gettting streamed from the car as we speak.

I am suprised Dobbin didn't have a real time stream as it happend.  :lol:

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12469
  • Karma: +599/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#282 Re: significant repeats
April 29, 2009, 09:09:41 am
Excellent stuff Nacho!

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3719
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#283 Re: significant repeats
April 30, 2009, 08:35:08 am
probably very soon! I'm sure its gettting streamed from the car as we speak.
I am suprised Dobbin didn't have a real time stream as it happend.  :lol:

Now there is an idea! Uploading now. 45% complete as I type this....

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3719
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#284 Re: significant repeats
April 30, 2009, 08:48:07 am
""

superfurrymonkey

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 779
  • Karma: +28/-1
#285 Re: significant repeats
April 30, 2009, 10:46:49 am
Having pulled on this and tried some of the moves without any success I'm totally gob smacked how he crushed that with what looked like ease.  :bow:

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1092
  • Karma: +65/-0
#286 Re: significant repeats
April 30, 2009, 12:54:25 pm
Genius video dobbin!

Nach nacho man!!!

dave

  • Guest
#287 Re: significant repeats
April 30, 2009, 01:01:35 pm
i want to be a nacho man


Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3899
  • Karma: +213/-6
#288 Re: significant repeats
April 30, 2009, 03:12:03 pm
Good shit! And great soundtrack. Would go more often if that was a resident fixture!

The Sausage

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 648
  • Karma: +72/-1
#289 Re: significant repeats
April 30, 2009, 10:25:58 pm
Totally genius video (and nice ascent too)... the most appropriate soundtrack ever

The Sausage

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 648
  • Karma: +72/-1
#290 Re: significant repeats
May 01, 2009, 07:51:20 am
p.s. YOU can live with the macho man for just 300 per month (including bills)

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2701
  • Karma: +124/-5
#291 Re: significant repeats
May 01, 2009, 12:09:56 pm
p.s. YOU can live with the macho man for just 300 per month (including bills)

Do you get a bed though for that price  :lol:

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5725
  • Karma: +180/-5
#292 Re: significant repeats
May 01, 2009, 12:13:54 pm
when i heard he was called nacho i just assumed it was a hilarious gag based on him being spanish. i was a bit disappointed to discover it's his real name.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2701
  • Karma: +124/-5
#293 Re: significant repeats
May 01, 2009, 02:07:39 pm
er, nachos are mexican

dave

  • Guest
#294 Re: significant repeats
May 01, 2009, 02:10:54 pm
is that mexico, the former spanish colony?

yorkshireman

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 386
  • Karma: +14/-8
  • dont knock the rock if you're shaky at the grade
#295 Re: significant repeats
May 02, 2009, 11:39:58 am
Watson made the 2nd ascent of Red Dragon too, which is also a good effort and well worth a mention.


watson did queen kong from a sitter yesterday while we were at queens,just before the rain arrived

Stubbs

  • Guest
#296 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2009, 08:31:47 pm
 After being way close the last couple of visits, Nacho sealed the deal on Keen Roof today, more good work from the Spanish beast  :bow:

Falling Down

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4637
  • Karma: +294/-4
    • bensblogredux
#297 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2009, 08:44:32 pm
when i heard he was called nacho i just assumed it was a hilarious gag based on him being spanish. i was a bit disappointed to discover it's his real name.

Similarly, I thought Nacho Sanchez was the nickname of some young beast I'd never heard of called Derek Stainthorpe or something equally prosaic.  However, I was quite excited to discover it was real name. 

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5725
  • Karma: +180/-5
#298 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2009, 09:15:39 pm
After being way close the last couple of visits, Nacho sealed the deal on Keen Roof today, more good work from the Spanish beast  :bow:

nice! he was insanely close the other day.

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1092
  • Karma: +65/-0
#299 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2009, 01:13:29 pm
Nacho the crusher!! Bo shangles! Said it felt harder than louis armstrong to him to!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2020, SimplePortal