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significant repeats (Read 4238162 times)

Kingy

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#9925 Re: significant repeats
October 05, 2021, 06:55:34 pm
Here is Stephano's video of the same route, which is a better quality, to give a better idea of the moves.



cheque

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#9926 Re: significant repeats
October 05, 2021, 07:12:57 pm
Quite impressed by her ability to concentrate with all the photography faffing going on around her! Surely they could get their shots on a working burn or something.

If I’ve learnt anything from write-ups of hard sport ascents it’s that you always succeed on what you expected to be a working burn.

jwi

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#9927 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2021, 09:43:11 am
For history buffs:

Baptiste Dherbilly has done the first repeat of Fred Rouhling's Empreintes in Saint-Pierre-en-Faucigny.

Empreintes was first done in 2008 and announced as 9a/b. Baptiste Dherbilly thinks Empreintes is a lot easier than the nearby Roughling-route Salamandre and suggests a grade of 8c+ for Empreintes

jakk

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#9928 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2021, 06:03:43 pm
Comment from Stefano on the Mellow vid of Laura Rogora  :o

Quote
For those who asked, she used a different beta for the jump, crimping some microscopical holds, I tried to touch them once and realized that the tickmark made to mark them was thicker than the holds themselves.

Seems that she really is EXTREMELY good at this climbing thing

Duma

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#9929 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2021, 05:56:57 am
She's certainly extremely light...

finbarrr

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#9930 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2021, 08:27:09 am
She's certainly extremely light...

Stasa Gejo wrote some blogs/articles published on 8a this week, mentioning a persistent rumour about a climber (f) weighing in at 34 kg.

Wellsy

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#9931 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2021, 09:19:53 am
It feels kinda crass to just be like X person i dont know and have never met has an ED, but if they weighs 34kgs...

Fiend

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#9932 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2021, 10:44:52 am
She's certainly extremely light...
Someone had to say it! I was too timid about being "bitter" and "jaded" and "cynical" and "armchair something or other" and whatever else people get pigeon-holed as.

I do however think that one needs to be wary of "persistent rumours" and making judgements without the truth being known tho. Even in this situation...


wasbeen

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#9933 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2021, 11:31:16 am
Laura Rogora is exceptionally small 5' but also exceptionally slight so the 35 kg does not surprise me.

However, I find it very uncomfortable to hold Laura Rogora up as a healthy role model for young female climbers - the messaging does not look good.

Maybe for indoors lead comps this could be addressed by recognising that currently being short and slight is often a big advantage and setting with this in mind; and also promoting the combined format (with or without speed) as the pinnacle of the sport. Incidentally, it would be very interesting to see the woman compete or men's IFSC lead routes - my suspicion is that you would get a very different set of results (although I expect Janja would still be at the top!). 

Outdoors, it seems routes are graded 90% on power/weight (finger strength) or at least it is easy enough to find routes that are. Perhaps more acclaim should be given to the all-rounders.
« Last Edit: October 08, 2021, 11:40:39 am by wasbeen »

Fiend

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#9934 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2021, 11:36:56 am
, it would be very interesting to see the woman compete or men's IFSC lead routes - my suspicion is that you would get a very different set of results (although I expect Janja would still be at the top!). 
Compared to the other women, or compared to the men?!  :blink:

wasbeen

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#9935 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2021, 11:44:43 am
I was thinking compared to woman on the woman's route. Although I dare say it might be possible to devise a route that Laura Rogora would beat the men at but much trickier to devise a route that Janja would beat the men at.

Johnny Brown

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#9936 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2021, 12:14:25 pm
Though the easiest to devise would be a route that the men would beat Rogora at.

Always tempting to think that you can set to favour the small/ light but only by providing the heavy with more holds. So has to be very bunched too?

petejh

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#9937 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2021, 02:01:25 pm
Basically need to set the Mutation crux. That sorts the men-who-weigh-as-boys, from the men.

wasbeen

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#9938 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2021, 02:28:23 pm
Basically need to set the Mutation crux. That sorts the men-who-weigh-as-boys, from the men.

... this alludes to the finger strength that is not measured in single-arm hangs on a 20mm edge (or even a BM micro edge) but is related to the properties of the tissue between the bone and the skin. I suspect this 'boy' strength is much more strongly correlated with absolute weight than power-to-weight.

shark

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#9939 Re: significant repeats
October 11, 2021, 12:08:20 pm
Rhos Frugtniet has ticked Mecca Extension this morning, her second 8c after Death Star

Duma

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#9940 Re: significant repeats
October 11, 2021, 03:30:29 pm
Nice!

remus

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#9941 Re: significant repeats
October 11, 2021, 03:37:10 pm
Waddage! One of only 7 british women to have ticked 8c or harder!
« Last Edit: October 11, 2021, 03:47:50 pm by remus »

remus

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#9942 Re: significant repeats
October 11, 2021, 04:09:52 pm
Fourth ascent of Batman 9a/+ at Malham Cove by Toby Roberts.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CU4_EuSjwpr/

shark

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#9943 Re: significant repeats
October 11, 2021, 04:34:08 pm
Fourth ascent of Batman 9a/+ at Malham Cove by Toby Roberts.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CU4_EuSjwpr/

Cool.

Toby also adds: "I've not much to go on for the grade - but it's definitely harder than Rainshadow in my opinion and others agree🤷‍♂️".

Eder thought 9a but Steve says its way harder than Northern Lights which I think is generally thought to be at the top end of 9a.   

abarro81

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#9944 Re: significant repeats
October 11, 2021, 04:55:31 pm
I thought Steve's beta was whack and they found a better method? (may be wrong on this, I'm just recalling an old conversation with Eder)

spidermonkey09

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#9945 Re: significant repeats
October 11, 2021, 05:26:53 pm
Eder is using a different sequence to Josh and Toby as I understand it, who are staying to Steve's original sequence. It does sounds like Eders left hand sequence is easier but also means it becomes entirely possible to finish at the Rainshadow chain. Think Steve spotted Eders way but made a conscious decision to climb the direct line as he thought it was better and harder that way. That all might be bollocks though.

Kingy

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#9946 Re: significant repeats
October 11, 2021, 08:05:48 pm
Nice effort Toby! I am informed by another aspirant ascentionist that there is no difference between the right and left hand sequence and he is picking the right hand method as he finds it the easier of the 2

shark

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#9947 Re: significant repeats
October 11, 2021, 08:26:05 pm
Nice effort Toby! I am informed by another aspirant ascentionist that there is no difference between the right and left hand sequence and he is picking the right hand method as he finds it the easier of the 2

Get up there Ted. I’d trust your judgement on what the true line is.

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#9948 Re: significant repeats
October 12, 2021, 08:14:42 am
Rhos did Mecca Extension yesterday

edshakey

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#9949 Re: significant repeats
October 12, 2021, 08:27:54 am
Rhos did Mecca Extension yesterday
Rhos Frugtniet has ticked Mecca Extension this morning, her second 8c after Death Star

 

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