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significant repeats (Read 2935102 times)

shark

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#9925 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 07:56:34 am
According to her Facebook story Lucy Mitchell flashed her first 8b - Iím presuming at St Leger. Iíve dropped her a message to find out which one

remus

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#9926 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 08:18:14 am
What a beast! Only the second British woman to flash 8b? (after Molly)

shark

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#9927 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 08:39:57 am
Mollyís was onsight of course so arguably the first flash ;-)

abarro81

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#9928 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 08:41:47 am
Molly's flashed 8b as well as onsighted

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#9929 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 10:57:27 am
Out of interest, does anyone know the number of ascents that Once Upon A Time In The Southwest has had, compared to Walk of Life?

Other than Birkett, have many people done both?

Is Walk of Life generally regarded as a bit harder?
One of them has a bold and serious crux start with no/little gear, the other has an easy if loose start and several pegs to go for...

I saw that, but maybe wait until the ascent is announced in a more unambiguous way?
Definitely, good call. Bollox to the "Sean says hi from Ceuse" type vague hints.

remus

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#9930 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 11:00:11 am
Out of interest, does anyone know the number of ascents that Once Upon A Time In The Southwest has had, compared to Walk of Life?

Other than Birkett, have many people done both?

Is Walk of Life generally regarded as a bit harder?
One of them has a bold and serious crux start with no/little gear, the other has an easy if loose start and several pegs to go for...

The pegs are a bit shit now apparently, though there's quite a bit of other gear in the form of micros, ball nuts and small cams.

Ged

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#9931 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 02:39:53 pm
Out of interest, does anyone know the number of ascents that Once Upon A Time In The Southwest has had, compared to Walk of Life?

Other than Birkett, have many people done both?

Is Walk of Life generally regarded as a bit harder?

Roughly similar I think. https://climbing-history.org/climb/562/once-upon-a-time-in-the-southwest and https://climbing-history.org/climb/581/the-walk-of-life Probably a few ascents missing from there though. Caff and Charlie Woodburn have done both of them.

My 'finger in the air' grade-o-meter from reading other people's comments is that walk of life is a bit harder.

My experience from the comfort of a micro traxion; WoL is way more sustained, but with an easier crux.  Gear is not too bad apart from the first 10 metres which are really quite bold.  OUATITSW seemed to have more steady climbing on it with a hard crux.  I spent way more time on WoL as I thought the climbing was amazing.  If I had a gun pointed at me and told to lead one now, it would be OUATITSW. 

I think WoL is also considerably harder for the short, which may account for the fewer ascents.

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dunnyg

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#9933 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 07:02:25 pm
Thats wild. Thats how I imagine I look on a good day climbing a 6b+

edshakey

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#9934 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 07:06:02 pm
Nico Januel has done The Big Island (8C) with a not-tall-person sequence (still not quite a short person method though!). I'm not familiar with him but he says it's his fourth of the grade, so strong chap.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUXydcbFZnU/

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#9935 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 07:09:40 pm
Thats wild. Thats how I imagine I look on a good day climbing a 6b+
What, slappy, with your feet slipping off??

Cool climbing in that video. Short route, must really pack it in.

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#9936 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 07:25:07 pm
Nico Januel has done The Big Island (8C) with a not-tall-person sequence (still not quite a short person method though!). I'm not familiar with him but he says it's his fourth of the grade, so strong chap.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUXydcbFZnU/

He used to be the French bouldering/youth coach.

He did a brilliant interview for UKC a few years ago that helps explain the recent French comp success.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/08/nicolas_januel_french_national_bouldering_team_coach-71233

This quote in particular stuck with me.

"I think that for a young athlete, the key is to be physically very strong, because later in life it becomes increasingly difficult to improve in that aspect. The second thing is to be very flexible. You can improve your technique for a long time."

 

mrjonathanr

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#9937 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 07:55:50 pm
His comment here interests me:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CKWmDxLqJHu/


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#9938 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 10:23:25 pm
Angie Scarth-Johnson has climbed something called Victimas Del Futur which makes her the first Australian woman (I believe the term is ďSheilaĒ) to climb 9a.

shark

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#9939 Re: significant repeats
September 29, 2021, 01:57:56 pm
According to her Facebook story Lucy Mitchell flashed her first 8b - Iím presuming at St Leger. Iíve dropped her a message to find out which one

Itís ď Viens voir mon gros jesusĒ and is at a banned or secret crag which is probably why I canít find any reference to it online. She did it on a short 5 day trip which is even more impressive
« Last Edit: September 29, 2021, 02:21:12 pm by shark »

edshakey

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#9940 Re: significant repeats
September 29, 2021, 02:49:52 pm
According to her Facebook story Lucy Mitchell flashed her first 8b - Iím presuming at St Leger. Iíve dropped her a message to find out which one

Itís ď Viens voir mon gros jesusĒ and is at a banned or secret crag which is probably why I canít find any reference to it online. She did it on a short 5 day trip which is even more impressive

I'd have thought 5 days is plenty of time to flash a route!

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#9941 Re: significant repeats
September 29, 2021, 03:35:00 pm
According to her Facebook story Lucy Mitchell flashed her first 8b - Iím presuming at St Leger. Iíve dropped her a message to find out which one

Itís ď Viens voir mon gros jesusĒ and is at a banned or secret crag which is probably why I canít find any reference to it online. She did it on a short 5 day trip which is even more impressive

I'd have thought 5 days is plenty of time to flash a route!

Indeed, it's no wonder people tell shark to climb faster

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shark

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#9943 Re: significant repeats
September 30, 2021, 12:10:59 pm
A secondhand report on the 8c and above thread from Mr Chaz that Josh Ibbertson repeated Batman on weds. Iíve messaged Josh to confirm. Also gather that Toby Roberts is getting close. 

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#9944 Re: significant repeats
September 30, 2021, 12:40:19 pm
A secondhand report on the 8c and above thread from Mr Chaz that Josh Ibbertson repeated Batman on weds. Iíve messaged Josh to confirm. Also gather that Toby Roberts is getting close.
No credit to me for the report from Fultonius, only marginal piss taking

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#9945 Re: significant repeats
September 30, 2021, 06:45:42 pm
A secondhand report on the 8c and above thread from Mr Chaz that Josh Ibbertson repeated Batman on weds. Iíve messaged Josh to confirm. Also gather that Toby Roberts is getting close.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUdEPoGjUh_/?utm_medium=copy_link From Joshís insta for ref.

Ross Barker

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#9946 Re: significant repeats
October 01, 2021, 07:19:53 am
Sean Bailey has confirmed on Instagram that he has indeed climbed Bibliographie.

edshakey

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#9947 Re: significant repeats
October 01, 2021, 08:37:49 am
According to the UKC logbooks James Taylor's route Prisoners of the Sun, E10 has had a second ascent. Hidden logbook though so not sure who. My money would be on Angus Kille.

Jim Pope.

Interview with him here.

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/pope-gets-second-ascent-of-prisoners-of-the-sun/

Interesting comments, including:

- Only spent 45 mins on a top rope before the lead.
- Felt like an E8 6c experience.
- Maybe casting doubt on some of the E7s on that wall.

Jim's certainly feeling strong at the minute :strongbench:

cheque

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#9948 Re: significant repeats
October 01, 2021, 11:21:12 am
A comically incongruous thing to post in a thread where 7a climbing has just been described as a ďtrivial jug ladderĒ but Anna Taylor has completed all the routes in Classic Rock in just two months, mostly solo and travelling between them (apart from the ferries to the islands) by pushbike.

Obviously theyíre all VS or below but thereís 83 of the fuckers, most of them are multipitch mountain routes and the English and Welsh legs are basically just a warm up for the Scotland section which includes the entire Cuillin Ridge and stuff like The Chasm. As I understand it itís never been done before- the two previous guys to cycle it had to miss bird-banned routes out and took weeks longer.

SA Chris

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#9949 Re: significant repeats
October 01, 2021, 11:26:06 am
It's an amazing feat, especially as the weather has been pretty shit and unless you time it well (prolonged dry spell) The Chasm and Clachaig Gully are essentially waterfalls. I think a couple of the Welsh ones are similar?

 

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