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significant repeats (Read 2928678 times)

Kingy

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#9900 Re: significant repeats
September 08, 2021, 11:07:42 pm
Quite. Saying instagram is the root of all evil is like saying all newspapers are bad. Perhaps the discerning newsreader would go for the broadsheets rather than the redtops?

Yossarian

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#9901 Re: significant repeats
September 08, 2021, 11:43:34 pm
I've said this before, but I would love to see @fiendogram. I would almost consider paying a subscription for it. I would love to see Fiendish content delivered to my phone daily. Opening Facebook and having to scroll past hundreds of pictures of insufferable people I used to know announcing their new organic hand-printed teepee businesses (which will all go bust in 6 months) in order to maybe see some in action Fiendishness is increasingly becoming too high a price to pay...

Bradders

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#9902 Re: significant repeats
September 09, 2021, 07:55:58 am
I've said this before, but I would love to see @fiendogram. I would almost consider paying a subscription for it. I would love to see Fiendish content delivered to my phone daily. Opening Facebook and having to scroll past hundreds of pictures of insufferable people I used to know announcing their new organic hand-printed teepee businesses (which will all go bust in 6 months) in order to maybe see some in action Fiendishness is increasingly becoming too high a price to pay...

Well he could always start an Only Fans.

Duma

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#9903 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2021, 07:58:43 pm

remus

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#9904 Re: significant repeats
September 26, 2021, 08:26:30 am
According to the UKC logbooks James Taylor's route Prisoners of the Sun, E10 has had a second ascent. Hidden logbook though so not sure who. My money would be on Angus Kille.

Ed booth

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#9905 Re: significant repeats
September 26, 2021, 08:36:36 am
Or possibly Dave Rudkin , undercover crusher

Doylo

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#9906 Re: significant repeats
September 26, 2021, 09:38:47 am
Quite. Saying instagram is the root of all evil is like saying all newspapers are bad. Perhaps the discerning newsreader would go for the broadsheets rather than the redtops?

Harmless enough for most adults, turning a percentage into bland egoists but you donít have to look at it. For teenagers (especially girls) itís largely a disaster for many reasons (*off topic re climbing).

JackPal

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#9907 Re: significant repeats
September 26, 2021, 11:03:12 am
According to the UKC logbooks James Taylor's route Prisoners of the Sun, E10 has had a second ascent. Hidden logbook though so not sure who. My money would be on Angus Kille.

Jim Pope.

remus

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#9908 Re: significant repeats
September 26, 2021, 12:58:10 pm
Good knowledge as per, thanks Jack.

Wood FT

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#9909 Re: significant repeats
September 26, 2021, 01:23:17 pm
According to the UKC logbooks James Taylor's route Prisoners of the Sun, E10 has had a second ascent. Hidden logbook though so not sure who. My money would be on Angus Kille.

Jim Pope.

The Last Samurai strikes again

remus

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#9910 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2021, 08:06:04 pm
Anna Hazelnutt repeated Once Upon A Time in the Southwest, Dave Birkett's (relatively) popular E9 slab testpiece at Dyer's lookout on Sunday. Not bad given she's only been trad climbing for a few weeks!

Some guy called Tom Randall also hopped on the send train.

edshakey

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#9911 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2021, 08:16:52 pm
Anna Hazelnutt repeated Once Upon A Time in the Southwest, Dave Birkett's (relatively) popular E9 slab testpiece at Dyer's lookout on Sunday. Not bad given she's only been trad climbing for a few weeks!

Some guy called Tom Randall also hopped on the send train.

Damn, I was typing this one out this afternoon and got distracted.

Good news, that shoots her up near the top of the women's trad list.

remus

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#9912 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2021, 08:31:15 pm
Damn, I was typing this one out this afternoon and got distracted.

I was surprised no one else had mentioned it!

Quote
Good news, that shoots her up near the top of the women's trad list.

I believe she's american so she's not on THE list  ;)

danm

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#9913 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2021, 09:05:43 pm
What other useful facts about her have you got squirreled away Remus?

Duma

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#9914 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2021, 09:30:02 pm
Interesting how much they both fell off it, didn't realise that was ok on this slab

Bradders

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#9915 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2021, 09:42:55 pm
I believe she's american so she's not on THE list  ;)

Remus, out of curiosity where did E10 come from on THE LIST for Hazel Findlay's ascent of Magic Line?

I ask because Magic Line is generally accepted to be solid 5.14c in American, or 8c+ in French. Thinking about all the chat regarding Lexicon, if that's safe-but-run-out 8b+ = E11, then shouldn't safe-but-run-out 8c+ be at least E....12?

Forgive my lack of knowledge, just curious.

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#9916 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2021, 09:53:17 pm
Top  :worms:  there, lol.

kingholmesy

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#9917 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2021, 09:54:07 pm
Out of interest, does anyone know the number of ascents that Once Upon A Time In The Southwest has had, compared to Walk of Life?

Other than Birkett, have many people done both?

Is Walk of Life generally regarded as a bit harder?

Duma

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#9918 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2021, 09:55:43 pm
No idea, but I always thought OAATITSW looked the better line, that runnel on the upper slab looks amazing

shark

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#9919 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2021, 10:12:11 pm
Remus, out of curiosity where did E10 come from on THE LIST for Hazel Findlay's ascent of Magic Line?

I ask because Magic Line is generally accepted to be solid 5.14c in American, or 8c+ in French. Thinking about all the chat regarding Lexicon, if that's safe-but-run-out 8b+ = E11, then shouldn't safe-but-run-out 8c+ be at least E....12?

Forgive my lack of knowledge, just curious.

Probably from what Hazel herself said on UKC:

Just to clarify. The grade given by the first red point ascentionist of this route (Lonnie Kauk) is 5.14c R which equals 8c+ and probably e10 (but UK grades donít really make sense for this line).

remus

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#9920 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2021, 10:20:35 pm
I believe she's american so she's not on THE list  ;)

Remus, out of curiosity where did E10 come from on THE LIST for Hazel Findlay's ascent of Magic Line?

I ask because Magic Line is generally accepted to be solid 5.14c in American, or 8c+ in French. Thinking about all the chat regarding Lexicon, if that's safe-but-run-out 8b+ = E11, then shouldn't safe-but-run-out 8c+ be at least E....12?

Forgive my lack of knowledge, just curious.

To be honest I just guessed (didn't clock that hazel had said E10, thanks for the reference shark). As I understand it magic line is pretty safe so the comparison with Lexicon may make a little more sense in that light.

remus

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#9921 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2021, 10:26:26 pm
Out of interest, does anyone know the number of ascents that Once Upon A Time In The Southwest has had, compared to Walk of Life?

Other than Birkett, have many people done both?

Is Walk of Life generally regarded as a bit harder?

Roughly similar I think. https://climbing-history.org/climb/562/once-upon-a-time-in-the-southwest and https://climbing-history.org/climb/581/the-walk-of-life Probably a few ascents missing from there though. Caff and Charlie Woodburn have done both of them.

My 'finger in the air' grade-o-meter from reading other people's comments is that walk of life is a bit harder.

kingholmesy

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#9922 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2021, 10:55:53 pm
Cheers.  I forgot about the wiki.  Good innit!

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jwi

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#9924 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2021, 07:03:48 am
I saw that, but maybe wait until the ascent is announced in a more unambiguous way?

 

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