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significant repeats (Read 2928680 times)

remus

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#9825 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 04:28:16 pm
Ghisolfi has to be considered a serious contender for best sport climber in the world really. I mean how many 9b+s are there? Vasil Vasil, Change, Perfecto Mundo and La Dura Dura, and he's done half of them (and all the ones he's tried) plus now Bibliographie and his own 9b/+ too. That's more than Megos and almost as many as Ondra, and he's also had a better time of it in comps recently.

Definitely looks that way, he's got a good depth of stuff in the 9b area too https://climbing-history.org/climber/495/stefano-ghisolfi

I'd say Adam still pips him to the post based on stuff he's done previously but Stefano looks on great form a the moment.

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#9826 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 05:14:44 pm
I reckon he'd have to establish a 9c himself to take that title.

Clearly top 3 though. Great to see him do it so quickly. I loved his video showing close ups of the holds as well.

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#9827 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 06:52:37 pm


Definitely looks that way, he's got a good depth of stuff in the 9b area too https://climbing-history.org/climber/495/stefano-ghisolfi

I'd say Adam still pips him to the post based on stuff he's done previously but Stefano looks on great form a the moment.

The only boulder problem listed for him on that site is at the Tor!

Doylo

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#9828 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 08:40:55 pm
Ghisolfi has to be considered a serious contender for best sport climber in the world really. I mean how many 9b+s are there? Vasil Vasil, Change, Perfecto Mundo and La Dura Dura, and he's done half of them (and all the ones he's tried) plus now Bibliographie and his own 9b/+ too. That's more than Megos and almost as many as Ondra, and he's also had a better time of it in comps recently.

Hope he goes to Flatanger again and does Silence.

Does onsighting not count for anything these days?  :whistle:

moose

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#9829 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 09:49:33 pm
I reckon he'd have to establish a 9c himself to take that title.

Clearly top 3 though. Great to see him do it so quickly. I loved his video showing close ups of the holds as well.

I really liked that video too.  The climbing film equivalent of the chapters in Moby Dick that are essays on the concept of whiteness, how to coil rope, and the uses of whale oils.  A digression from drone-shots and continuous action (or harpoon action) that despite, or possibly because, it was so granular, seemed to put the climb's struggle and meaning in greater context

[Note. I have had a hard day at work, have just found out I am going to be an uncle, and am a few G&Ts deep.  I reserve the right to entirely recant the preceding]

remus

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#9830 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 10:10:55 pm


Definitely looks that way, he's got a good depth of stuff in the 9b area too https://climbing-history.org/climber/495/stefano-ghisolfi

I'd say Adam still pips him to the post based on stuff he's done previously but Stefano looks on great form a the moment.

The only boulder problem listed for him on that site is at the Tor!

Gotta include the important stuff  :lol: Though if his 8a.nu profile is accurate he's hardly done any hard bouldering (relative to his sport grade anyway).

Wood FT

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#9831 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 10:13:45 pm
Ghisolfi has to be considered a serious contender for best sport climber in the world really. I mean how many 9b+s are there? Vasil Vasil, Change, Perfecto Mundo and La Dura Dura, and he's done half of them (and all the ones he's tried) plus now Bibliographie and his own 9b/+ too. That's more than Megos and almost as many as Ondra, and he's also had a better time of it in comps recently.

Hope he goes to Flatanger again and does Silence.

Does onsighting not count for anything these days?  :whistle:

I hear that

edshakey

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#9832 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 10:14:02 pm


Definitely looks that way, he's got a good depth of stuff in the 9b area too https://climbing-history.org/climber/495/stefano-ghisolfi

I'd say Adam still pips him to the post based on stuff he's done previously but Stefano looks on great form a the moment.

The only boulder problem listed for him on that site is at the Tor!

Anyone know what else he got up to on that trip?

Wellsy

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#9833 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 10:31:20 pm
Ghisolfi has to be considered a serious contender for best sport climber in the world really. I mean how many 9b+s are there? Vasil Vasil, Change, Perfecto Mundo and La Dura Dura, and he's done half of them (and all the ones he's tried) plus now Bibliographie and his own 9b/+ too. That's more than Megos and almost as many as Ondra, and he's also had a better time of it in comps recently.

Hope he goes to Flatanger again and does Silence.

Does onsighting not count for anything these days?  :whistle:

I dunno how good Ghisolfi is at onsighting but I assume he's pretty nails cos of his comp success.

Ondra's onsighting and flashes are amazing though for sure.

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#9834 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 10:39:26 pm

Anyone know what else he got up to on that trip?

According to his spraysheet he did Jerry’s Traverse at the plantation and not a lot else! Graeme might be able to tell us how he did in the CWIF

https://www.8a.nu/user/stefano-ghisolfi-iixzv/sportclimbing

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#9835 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 12:20:24 pm
According to his FB account, he’s suggesting a down grade to 9b+…

 :popcorn:

James Malloch

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#9836 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 12:22:58 pm
Waddage. Will be interesting to see what he says on the grade, haven't been keeping track but seems like he polished it off pretty quickly compared to Megos (who spent ~60 days on it).

His latest IG post says he took 25 days (similar to change and less than Perfecto Mundo). Also found some new beta for both crux.

He thinks it’s in the same range as those and to be given 9c would require a bigger step up from other 9b+.

So the jury is out.

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#9837 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 12:41:24 pm
Ooh drama, exciting

Doylo

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#9838 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 12:57:51 pm
Megos prob campussed it.

spidermonkey09

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#9839 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 01:14:34 pm
Seems very clear he thinks its 9b+ and Megos was using a duff sequence. #biggradesforbadbeta

teestub

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#9840 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 01:17:14 pm
First 9c downgrader, waddage!

spidermonkey09

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#9841 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 01:21:44 pm
First 9c downgrader, waddage!

Frankly I'm astonished it wasn't Bouin! Maybe he'll up the ante and say its 9b or something.

remus

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#9842 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 01:29:06 pm
First 9c downgrader, waddage!

Frankly I'm astonished it wasn't Bouin! Maybe he'll up the ante and say its 9b/+ or something.

Gotta have the slash, it's the official Bouin grade of choice.

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#9843 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 02:58:24 pm
First 9c downgrader, waddage!

Frankly I'm astonished it wasn't Bouin! Maybe he'll up the ante and say its 9b/+ or something.

Gotta have the slash, it's the official Bouin grade of choice.

Malcolm Smith’s comment on Insta:

“Excited to see whether Seb thinks it’s 9b/9b+ or 9b+/9c”

remus

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#9844 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 03:06:15 pm
Emma Twyford has onsight/flashed (not clear from the DMM post but sounds like it was more towards the OS end) Always the Sun E7 in pembroke.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CTCfdqAjEpW/

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#9845 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 04:12:21 pm
Seems very clear he thinks its 9b+ and Megos was using a duff sequence. #biggradesforbadbeta

Does that mean that Megos did still climb 9c though?  :worms:

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#9846 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2021, 03:47:38 pm
Great stuff from Stefano, have really enjoyed his Youtube videos and entertaining commentary.

Also well done EmmaTwy, onsighting/flashing is goooood mmmkay.

edshakey

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#9847 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2021, 07:19:28 pm
8b+ flash for Jakob on Anam Cara

His third flash of the grade! Not bad for a route climber...



Painful looking fall on the 8b at 1:50  :'(

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#9848 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2021, 08:11:46 pm
Good stuff! Harmonising your hair colour with both the rock and pads is obviously the way....

SA Chris

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#9849 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2021, 10:02:20 pm
1:42 pad dab.

 

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