UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 2884592 times)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 26751
  • Karma: +553/-10
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#9775 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 02:35:49 pm
Glenda's onsighted The Bells! The Bells!

And I seem to remember A Wreath of Deadly Nightshade too.

edshakey

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 48
  • Karma: +0/-0
#9776 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 02:37:44 pm
Quick research has yielded:

Emma Twyford flashed Yukan II (potentially soft E7) and Bucket Dynasty (seems now established as E7) in 2014

"Karen Magog, Lucy Creamer and Glenda have all onsighted E7" from a 2003 UKC post, but no more details to back it up that I can see

Good skills. I think yukan ii is considered E6 these days? Caff reckons bucket dynasty is E7 so that's good enough for me.

Karin's got a couple under her belt by the looks of it, and Glenda's onsighted The Bells! The Bells! Anyone got any knowledge on whether Lucy has onsighted a less contentions E7 than boss hogg?


Turns out Emma has also flashed Gravity Wave, E8, in 2016.


Edit:: apparently Lucy also did Ghost Train in Pembroke (onsight rather than flash ?), but that has since settled at E6
« Last Edit: July 09, 2021, 02:46:24 pm by edshakey »

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7992
  • Karma: +573/-16
  • insect overlord #1
#9777 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 04:34:31 pm

I'll add it to the "downgrade the peak's most popular soft touches (starring keen roof)" todo list.

 :lol:

Quote
What's her full name by the way? Sounds like someone missing from the list!

Ewa Rams but she’s Polish

El Mocho

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 556
  • Karma: +104/-1
#9778 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 05:21:57 pm
Quick research has yielded:

Emma Twyford flashed Yukan II (potentially soft E7) and Bucket Dynasty (seems now established as E7) in 2014

"Karen Magog, Lucy Creamer and Glenda have all onsighted E7" from a 2003 UKC post, but no more details to back it up that I can see

Good skills. I think yukan ii is considered E6 these days? Caff reckons bucket dynasty is E7 so that's good enough for me.

Karin's got a couple under her belt by the looks of it, and Glenda's onsighted The Bells! The Bells! Anyone got any knowledge on whether Lucy has onsighted a less contentions E7 than boss hogg?


Turns out Emma has also flashed Gravity Wave, E8, in 2016.


Edit:: apparently Lucy also did Ghost Train in Pembroke (onsight rather than flash ?), but that has since settled at E6

There was a period in between Pembroke guides when Boss Hogg was talked about being E7, and Ghost Train the same/got E7. I think your right to say both are more like E6 - Boss Hogg is pretty punchy but the gear is good, although not totally sinker, takes a little skill from a pumpy position to place, but mid to hard E6 seems fair. I have a feeling Ghost Train may have been given E7 when the sling at the end of the runout was not in place - it had a bunch of drilled thread runners from Gary and the original (non-drilled gear) description talked about a hard move at the end of the runout to reach the flake and then gear which would fit with this thread not being there. It would def be E7 like that. I climbed them both at a similar period to Lucy and the sling was in place then. Funnily enough I've just had an email from Mike Owen so I could ask him.

When Glenda osed Bells I think she had the high, high thread runner clipped up and left of the Cad flake, the gear before the trav right on the Bells is pretty poor. I've not done the Bells, the whole wall terrifies me so I have no experience on this. I'm not meaning to be putting a downer on all these climbs and climbers, they are all great, hard climbs and good on sights whatever the grade but also I think it's good to show Hazels recent ascent, and Emmas flash of Gravity Waves as how outstanding they are (and obv's Karens and Glendas other E7s even more so)

Did Lu do From a Distance? And is this still considered E7?

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1640
  • Karma: +70/-1
#9779 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 06:01:19 pm
Excellent knowledge as per usual, thanks everyone. Emma's flash of Gravity Wave is particularly impressive!


When Glenda osed Bells I think she had the high, high thread runner clipped up and left of the Cad flake, the gear before the trav right on the Bells is pretty poor. I've not done the Bells, the whole wall terrifies me so I have no experience on this. I'm not meaning to be putting a downer on all these climbs and climbers, they are all great, hard climbs and good on sights whatever the grade but also I think it's good to show Hazels recent ascent, and Emmas flash of Gravity Waves as how outstanding they are (and obv's Karens and Glendas other E7s even more so)

I think there's a Jam Crack where Nick Bullock talks a bit about Glenda's ascent of The bells. He seemed suitably impressed (and not that convinced that the side runner she used was actually up to much) which to me is a decent argument for E7.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2021, 06:07:10 pm by remus »

ali k

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 703
  • Karma: +31/-1
#9780 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 06:35:37 pm
Emma Twyford flashed Yukan II (potentially soft E7)
Good skills. I think yukan ii is considered E6 these days?
Probably even soft for E6. Maybe top end E5? Everyone I know that's climbed it thought it was a joke at E7 - even by Nessy standards  :lol:

I have a feeling Ghost Train may have been given E7 when the sling at the end of the runout was not in place - it had a bunch of drilled thread runners from Gary and the original (non-drilled gear) description talked about a hard move at the end of the runout to reach the flake and then gear which would fit with this thread not being there. It would def be E7 like that.
Yep that sounds right. Totally different proposition.

Quote
Did Lu do From a Distance? And is this still considered E7?
I thought she O/Sd this. Not sure which year she did it but there was period a while ago when the threads at the end of the traverse had been extended so much you could clip them before doing a hard set of moves upwards (I'm talking over a metre long!). Maybe that was when Point Blank had become popular? Anyway, def E6 like that. Haven't been down in a few years so I don't know if they've been cut/shortened again now. Think they were extended after she’d first done it cos I remember her commenting on them on a re-visit.

FWIW I thought Boss Hogg was much harder than Ghost Train and From a Distance. Both of which I O/Sd, but couldn't even get started on BH.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2021, 06:42:28 pm by ali k »

Wil

Online
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 295
  • Karma: +26/-0
    • Wil Treasure
#9781 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 06:54:23 pm
FWIW I thought Boss Hogg was much harder than Ghost Train and From a Distance. Both of which I O/Sd, but couldn't even get started on BH.

I've done FaD, I don't have enough experience to really comment on grade (and I headpointed it) but... I did it, which make me lean towards E6. Same for Yukan II. What you say about the threads makes sense, it would feel a lot harder with the thread even slightly out of reach (it was maybe a foot long when I did it, I could reach it at a stretch before the hard move). I've also been on Boss Hogg on a toprope, it felt a lot harder to me and while there is good gear placing it can't be easy.

Steve Crowe

Online
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 128
  • Karma: +7/-1
  • “Nothing negates the need for max hangs”
    • www.climbonline.co.uk
#9782 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 07:32:48 pm
Quick research has yielded:



"Karen Magog, Lucy Creamer and Glenda have all onsighted E7" from a 2003 UKC post, but no more details to back it up that I can see


Karin has written about some of her climbing achievements on my website
here…

https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/02/climbing-is-my-passion-by-karin-magog/

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 11728
  • Karma: +555/-64
  • Whut
#9783 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 07:37:52 pm
#climbing_is_my_passion down with the insta-kids eh :lol: :lol:

edshakey

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 48
  • Karma: +0/-0
#9784 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 07:47:05 pm
Cheers for that Steve, I was looking for some more info on the ascents but could only find old dead links. Makes for an hugely impressive read

i_a_coops

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 480
  • Karma: +41/-2
    • Ian Cooper
#9785 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 08:00:59 pm
Info on Lucy Creamer's ascents of Point Blank and From A Distance here:

https://dmmclimbing.com/Journal/July-2015/Point-Blank-(E8-6c)-hit-for-Lucy-Creamer


TLDR: She didn't quite onsight From A Distance, sounds like she got close, but IMO much more impressively, when she did Point Blank she forgot the crucial cam so lowered down a loop of rope to tag it up from the shakeout before the traverse - and that shake out isn't actually very chill unless you're reasonably tall (5'9 ish maybe to reach the good footholds - I'm definitely a touch too short at 5'8!)

Kingy

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1426
  • Karma: +70/-2
#9786 Re: significant repeats
July 16, 2021, 11:35:30 am
9a at 51  :strongbench: :strongbench:

www.8a.nu/news/pure-dreaming-9a-by-alfredo-webber-51-9b7gc

Edit: Megos thinks it is 8c+ from his video of the climb on his Youtube channel "My personal option about the grade is rather 8c+ than 9a." Still a bloody good effort!!

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4884
  • Karma: +190/-3
#9787 Re: significant repeats
July 25, 2021, 09:00:00 pm
Roz Frugtniet did Full Tilt on Fri. Urgent Action on Sat. Free Monster on Sun.

Not a bad weekend really.

edshakey

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 48
  • Karma: +0/-0
#9788 Re: significant repeats
July 25, 2021, 10:19:26 pm
Another E7 flash for Hazel - Heart of Stone (Gallt Yr Ogof).

Having struggled to come up with many E7 female flashes a few weeks ago in this thread, now there's another straight away!

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4884
  • Karma: +190/-3
#9789 Re: significant repeats
July 26, 2021, 09:51:37 am
Not a repeat, but Caff doing Dawes' Tesseract project at the weekend is pretty significant to those who can remember birth of extreme!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CRwGjwMFS5t/?utm_medium=copy_link

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1537
  • Karma: +82/-3
#9790 Re: significant repeats
July 26, 2021, 11:35:06 am
We need a "Significant FAs" thread

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4884
  • Karma: +190/-3
#9791 Re: significant repeats
July 26, 2021, 11:43:07 am
Yeah sorry, probably deserved its own thread.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4695
  • Karma: +102/-27
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#9792 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 09:12:05 pm
Josh Ibbo did Wonderwall yesterday. Was given 8b for years but people trying it last year seem to think maybe 8c.

This is the first repeat. Was talk of font 8a in french 8a+\b from peeps last year.

Josh is on the fence at 8b+\c

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 11728
  • Karma: +555/-64
  • Whut
#9793 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 09:17:04 pm
Where?

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1640
  • Karma: +70/-1
#9794 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 09:18:58 pm
This unrepeated Ian Vickers number at Yew Cogar I assume https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/yew_cogar-1342/wonderwall-153112

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4695
  • Karma: +102/-27
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#9795 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 09:20:28 pm

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2789
  • Karma: +218/-1
  • el flaco lento
#9796 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 10:12:46 pm
That's a route that's fascinated me for years. I had a few seasons at Cogur, during a time when Nik Jennings and Rob Haigh were trying it. Every week the probable grade would go up.  Their descriptions were really evocative - hard move into hard move, without enough respite to chalk, even on the slabby parts. I vaguely recall they pulled off a hold that they thought made it impossible, not sure if the hold was ever glued.

Possibly apocryphal, but I've been told Vickers was going to give it 8a+ but it was pointed out that it'd taken weeks of work, and he'd rinsed Northern Lights (8c) in half a session.  So he relented and gave it 8b!   

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1640
  • Karma: +70/-1
#9797 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 10:32:36 pm
 :lol: That's an ace story! I guess you mean True North though? Pretty sure he never did Northern Lights.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4695
  • Karma: +102/-27
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#9798 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 11:01:57 pm
:lol: That's an ace story! I guess you mean True North though? Pretty sure he never did Northern Lights.

The best story about the route is this one.

When Rob Haigh pulled the jug off he took it home for safe keeping so it didn't get lost. Time went on and he ended up putting it in a vase on the mantlepiece.

Short time later Rob  was burgled and the vase was stolen and so too it the Wonderwall hold.

True story.

robertostallioni

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2280
  • Karma: +196/-2
#9799 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 11:09:49 pm
true dat.
:lol: That's an ace story! I guess you mean True North though? Pretty sure he never did Northern Lights.
yeah, was true north.
Wonderwall is such a good route. Hard boulder off the deck and then just relentless. The middle shield was always a little friable and footholds were scrittly and I pulled a sidepull edge off that you do a long pull off, going to this cauliflower thing. We stuck it back on and after NIk had swung about on it I pulled it off again and we just never went back.
The edge then sat in my loose change bowl for about 8 years, till I got burglarised and they took my bowl, edge and all!
Ladies and gentlemen of the jury, may I present the accused - Ibbo!
Dunno if a replacement has subsequently been manufactured? or perhaps an alternate sequence found? I'd love to see footage of the ascent as the moves were ace.
felt a full grade harder than something like Unjustified to me.
Very glad Josh has done it. What a weapon!  :strongbench:

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2021, SimplePortal