[submaximal gains]

More photos of Steve on it here https://www.instagram.com/p/CPbIX6kn1mq/

You can see the tide was entirely out when he did it so the base of the route was entirely dry

[shark]

Seems obvious to do it roped when you see that given that there must be decent gear unless Steve has gone super bold overnight.

[teestub]

Looks like he may have had a another rope for that bit out the cave? May explain why he’s only on one rope for the top bit with the big zig zag.

[teestub]

Oh shit he used a knee pad too...
https://www.instagram.com/p/CPaxCrfjNKf

[danm]

If a device was invented which could measure the number of potential kneebars on a route before you climbed it, would it be called a Barrowmeter?

Sorry, I've been drinking...

[Wood FT]

Very good

[remus]

Barbra Zangerl has repeated James Pearson's Le Voyage (E10) at Annot.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CPjSUMHsOMS/

[remus]

Barbra Zangerl has repeated James Pearson's Le Voyage (E10) at Annot.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CPjSUMHsOMS/

Jacopo Larcher and Siebe Vanhee also got in on the action! https://fanatic-climbing.com/triple-repetition-du-voyage-a-annot-triple-send-of-le-voyage-in-annot/

[monkey boy]

Not the best looking line but cool that Yosemite has it's first V15!

[Duncan campbell]

Why do you think it has taken so long for Yosemite to get its first V15, considering it was probably at the forefront of bouldering back in the day with things like midnight lightning, thriller (?) and dominator?

Is it that the rock doesn’t lend itself to that sort of difficulty?

Or is it that the grades are harsher there compared to areas that have multiple V16s but are maybe newer and therefore potentially more softly graded?

Anecdotally I have found in general newer developed areas have kinder grades than old school.

I was surprised when I saw The valley had just got its first V15

[teestub]

Is it that the rock doesn’t lend itself to that sort of difficulty?

I think mainly this, the granite is totally different from somewhere like Chironico (which I think is actually gneiss, but anyway), which lends itself to forming hard boulder problems (look at the Delusions of Grandeur block for example).

Also I think Yosemite has become less fashionable for the bouldering elite, potentially due to the lack of obvious hard projects but I guess also because of the faff of climbing in one of the most popular tourist destinations in the states.

I think it only recently got its first 8b+!

[Coops_13]

Agreed. Although I've never been, I recently got the new (massive) bouldering guidebook and was very surprised how technical and featureless a lot of the climbs in my grade range appeared. I think the rock lends itself to be very smooth with minimal holds, looks quite different to Squamish for instance (where I also haven't been but have purchased the guidebook of )

[monkey boy]

All of the above factors plus the season is really short and even then it's hard to get good conditions. It often goes from too hot to snowed over or wet in a very short space of time.

I also think the more technical/subtle style means climbing big numbers is harder to come by and so people don't flock there.

We spent 3 weeks there in 2012, we had terrible weather but when we did climb I thought it was incredible, up there with Font and Flock Hill in my eyes. I want to return, it's weather and accommodation faff that's always put me off.

[shark]

Molly has done her second 8B - Euro Roof Low at Little Cottonwood Canyon

www.instagram.com/p/CPoKNTtDIWq/

[andy moles]

It’s an unfathomable achievement that even those of us still holding out hope of finding a copy of the book for a sensible price can’t begrudge. Let’s not forget that he did at least some of the routes in Red Chillis too. 

I feel like UKB is a savant enough place for me to pass the curmudgeonly comment that ticking Extreme Rock is no more impressive than ticking the same number of climbs of equivalent stature that aren't in Extreme Rock (which Caff has also done). So I'm not dissing the scale of the accomplishment, just the way it's framed.

If a second volume of Extreme Rock was published with a set of routes that were done more recently or left out the first time, it could probably be just as good if not better. The piety with which UK climbing still treats that premature old book is irksome.

Anyway, please carry on discussing more recent events 

[remus]

I feel like UKB is a savant enough place for me to pass the curmudgeonly comment that ticking Extreme Rock is no more impressive than ticking the same number of climbs of equivalent stature that aren't in Extreme Rock (which Caff has also done).

I dunno, I think ticking a particular list of climbs comes with extra challenges over 'just' ticking 180 hard, high quality lines. When there's a list there's probably going to be some lines on there that don't suit you or provide some extra level of spice for whatever reason (Master's Wall for Caff, to choose a relevant example) that adds an extra level of challenge.

[andy moles]

I feel like UKB is a savant enough place for me to pass the curmudgeonly comment that ticking Extreme Rock is no more impressive than ticking the same number of climbs of equivalent stature that aren't in Extreme Rock (which Caff has also done).

I dunno, I think ticking a particular list of climbs comes with extra challenges over 'just' ticking 180 hard, high quality lines. When there's a list there's probably going to be some lines on there that don't suit you or provide some extra level of spice for whatever reason (Master's Wall for Caff, to choose a relevant example) that adds an extra level of challenge.

That is a fair point. Though I'm not sure it accounts for the reaction, in comparison to recognising what Caff has already accomplished on its own terms.

[duncan]

Molly has done her second 8B - Euro Roof Low at Little Cottonwood Canyon

www.instagram.com/p/CPoKNTtDIWq/

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26077.msg638176.html#msg638176 

[Andy F]

It’s an unfathomable achievement that even those of us still holding out hope of finding a copy of the book for a sensible price can’t begrudge. Let’s not forget that he did at least some of the routes in Red Chillis too. 

I feel like UKB is a savant enough place for me to pass the curmudgeonly comment that ticking Extreme Rock is no more impressive than ticking the same number of climbs of equivalent stature that aren't in Extreme Rock (which Caff has also done). So I'm not dissing the scale of the accomplishment, just the way it's framed.

Anyway, please carry on discussing more recent events 

Have you seen Caff's comments about Masters Wall? 2 complete death E9's along with the rest of the list (up to very bouldery 8b) is no mean list. Add in geographical difficulty, conditions, partners, time etc it is a truly stunning achievement.

[remus]

Rebekah Drummond has repeated Sky Wall, Dave birketts tasty looking E7 on Skye.

[GazM]

Heard this a few weeks ago from a reputable source: Iain Small, the wad's wad, repeated Jules Lines' E10 Hold Fast, Hold True in Glen Nevis.

He'd probably hate me putting this on here, but there's no denying that it's pretty significant.

[SA Chris]

James Taylor and Art Garfunkel doing E10s in the same week, what a time to be alive.

[Fiend]

Bloody hell. Where did he hang around for 30 minutes shaking out off intermediates and fiddling in micro-cams on that??

[abarro81]

For anyone who wondered whether Empath could be jammed, the answer appears to be yes and it makes it more like 8c+/9a https://www.instagram.com/p/CP6qnd3D3wO/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

[shark]

Rebekah Drummond has repeated Skye Wall, Dave birketts tasty looking E7 on Skye.

Lattice post says she’s recently had a second child as well as training to be a midwife!

“Newborn on the boob constantly, belly a squishy pile of jelly...”

www.instagram.com/p/CP5viyqowVe