UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 2763893 times)

mr chaz

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 257
  • Karma: +29/-0
#9625 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 05:57:22 pm
Bat hang off stuff seems like the obvious way?

Not even close to doing one on a massive jug or even a ladder rung

Me neither. Starts assisted bat hangs thread

Yeah, this seems to be something people can just do and I'm nowhere near. Equally pathetic trying to hands off whilst kneebarring. I must have a seriously weak link in the chain somwhere!

I tell myself I'm better off this way

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4675
  • Karma: +101/-27
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#9626 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 09:04:26 pm
Also been done by a euro with a mohawk IIRC - Sebastian Halenke or something like that?

Correct. Jim confirmed this yesterday.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4675
  • Karma: +101/-27
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#9627 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 09:49:52 pm
Will Bosi did Transformer in 2015.
Thought it was called Transform? Certainly was in the last definitive guide.

Malc called it Transform. After what Power Rangers do.


Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4675
  • Karma: +101/-27
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#9628 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 09:54:21 pm
Question for the locals: is this the second ascent? Steve Mc would be the obvious candidate but I can't find anything in the news about him having done it.

Malc was under the impression Steve did second ascent.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1507
  • Karma: +69/-1
#9629 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 10:34:30 pm
Question for the locals: is this the second ascent? Steve Mc would be the obvious candidate but I can't find anything in the news about him having done it.

Malc was under the impression Steve did second ascent.

He may well have done, I just had a quick google and couldn't find any mention of it and had assumed it would have been in the news at the time.

Kingy

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1387
  • Karma: +69/-2
#9630 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 08:52:59 am
My recolllection is that Steve has done it, I don't have any documentary source for this though

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 26398
  • Karma: +546/-10
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#9631 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 09:03:43 am
Probably from the time when he was ticking through the 8s there on a daily basis and it went under the radar

Nike Air

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 562
  • Karma: +56/-1
#9632 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 09:34:40 am
My recolllection is that Steve has done it, I don't have any documentary source for this though
Yes Ted he has done it, it was a long time ago though. Probably back when on the edge or planet fear was the source of news. I also recall him saying he did it in a day.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1507
  • Karma: +69/-1
#9633 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 09:59:55 am
Good to know. The universe felt a little out of kilter with the thought of a line at malham that Steve hadn't done. Balance is restored.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1918
  • Karma: +115/-0
#9634 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 10:43:31 am
I think Malc and Steve did back-to-back ascents of Transform. I thought, though I may be wrong, they were trying it together on the same day and malc did it first quickly followed by Steve.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6611
  • Karma: +412/-7
#9635 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 11:51:35 am
I think Malc and Steve did back-to-back ascents of Transform. I thought, though I may be wrong, they were trying it together on the same day and malc did it first quickly followed by Steve.

Then they were doing laps on Raindogs after and Steve was dismayed Malc did it 10 times in a row (or something along those lines). Was in OTE.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 26398
  • Karma: +546/-10
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#9636 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 03:17:58 pm
Bat hang off stuff seems like the obvious way?

Not even close to doing one on a massive jug or even a ladder rung

Me neither. Starts assisted bat hangs thread 😂

legendary strengths of feet?

dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1175
  • Karma: +72/-2
#9637 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 03:42:08 pm
legendary feet of strength. Weighted bat hangs  what could go wrong.... :popcorn:

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2977
  • Karma: +224/-0
  • uhm... huh?
    • On Steep Ground
#9638 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 03:59:14 pm
Interesting - Iím alright at heels (but not a strength) but rubbish at toe hooks. To the point I was thinking about how to train for them! (Apart from practice toe hooks)

Way OT, but anyway.

In my opinion hanging upside down from toe hooks is an abs/hip flexor exercise, as is using toe-hooks in general. If it is genuinely down to weakness in the dorsiflexion the following might help: https://exrx.net/WeightExercises/TibialisAnterior/BWSingleLegRevCalfRaise

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1507
  • Karma: +69/-1
#9639 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 09:55:41 pm
I asked the man himself about transform...

Quote from: Steve McClure
In fact I worked it with Malc. We went up for a day, he was finding it hard, I went up and found all the cunning beta, and then he did it next day but I was too knackered!! I did it a few days later!! Moral of story.... keep your beta secret!

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7905
  • Karma: +569/-16
  • insect overlord #1
#9640 Re: significant repeats
May 09, 2021, 07:41:18 pm
I hear Eder has done Batman

Ged

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 647
  • Karma: +28/-1
#9641 Re: significant repeats
May 09, 2021, 08:06:11 pm
Are we allowed to know Eder's surname, or what Batman is?

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1507
  • Karma: +69/-1
#9642 Re: significant repeats
May 09, 2021, 08:14:07 pm
Are we allowed to know Eder's surname, or what Batman is?

Eder Lomba (https://www.instagram.com/p/COpjZFFDa7Q/) and the route is a variation on Bat Route at Malham https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/malham_cove-610/batman-261088.

As I understand it Batman is basically an easier start in to the top of Rainman, Steve's 9b at Malham.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7905
  • Karma: +569/-16
  • insect overlord #1
#9643 Re: significant repeats
May 09, 2021, 08:44:54 pm
Steve Macgave it a slash grade of 9a/+
IIRC Neil Mawson persuaded him to do it as an insurance policy in case he didnít tick Rainman. Josh Ibbertson has been on it too. Think both have their eyes on Rainman.

Kingy

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1387
  • Karma: +69/-2
#9644 Re: significant repeats
May 09, 2021, 09:10:38 pm
That is awesome. First 9a repeated at the Cove that isn't Rain or Overshadow I reckon. Hopefully just a safety tick before the full rig (Rainman)!  :bow:

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7905
  • Karma: +569/-16
  • insect overlord #1

Kingy

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1387
  • Karma: +69/-2
#9646 Re: significant repeats
May 10, 2021, 01:37:38 pm
I think there was a video of Steve on Batman but I can't find it. It was where the quickdraw gate stuck open on the crux and hooked onto his belay loop on one of his best redpoints. Gotta be a one in a million that one!  :o

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1507
  • Karma: +69/-1
#9647 Re: significant repeats
May 10, 2021, 01:50:04 pm
I think there was a video of Steve on Batman but I can't find it. It was where the quickdraw gate stuck open on the crux and hooked onto his belay loop on one of his best redpoints. Gotta be a one in a million that one!  :o

I remember reading that story in a blog post/mag article too. If I remember correctly the photographer had left the gate open...wouldn't have wanted to be in his shoes!


Anti

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Potato
  • Posts: 163
  • Karma: +6/-0
#9649 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2021, 11:26:55 am


Nicolas Pelorson has repeated No Kpote Only, giving its 3rd ascent. He's on some good form at the moment eh!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2021, SimplePortal