[Bradders]

edit: in fact, on second viewing, I've just realised that he's skipped the infamous bulb hold altogether. Still looks significantly harder than the high left heel beta.

Random: I've never understood why it's called the bulb. Doesn't look anything like a bulb to me, either floral or electrical.

[SA Chris]

An idea?

[Bradders]

What this opens up is the FA of the link into All Natural to give The Wheel of Wharfedale 

Anyone know who did Lip Service (which is same thing but with the block at the start of the Keel)? It's on UKC but with a mysterious single tick from a hidden logbook. 36C? Tim?

[36chambers]

What this opens up is the FA of the link into All Natural to give The Wheel of Wharfedale 

What a brilliant name.

Anyone know who did Lip Service (which is same thing but with the block at the start of the Keel)? It's on UKC but with a mysterious single tick from a hidden logbook. 36C? Tim?

Not mine, one hard eliminate on there is enough for me. My bet would be the elusive Robin Nichols.

[cheque]

My bet would be the elusive Robin Nichols.

Yep, it’s Robin’s tick on UKC.

[teestub]

Anyone know who did Lip Service (which is same thing but with the block at the start of the Keel)? It's on UKC but with a mysterious single tick from a hidden logbook. 36C? Tim?

Not mine, one hard eliminate on there is enough for me. My bet would be the elusive Robin Nichols.

I think it’s a Katz problem but not 100%. There’s a 7A trav up the other side of the block from slopers patrol, so the full proj would be to reverse that into Bulbhaul into All Natural.

The Bulb hold does look like a 💡

[Fiend]

How about an 8B flash that hasn't been downgraded on UKC yet....

[Bradders]

Isn't that also a downgraded 8B+?

[Fiend]

Well, it's pre-downgraded then, like pre-shrunk cotton or pre-washed denim. The perfect fit.

[Will Hunt]

Love that. You can see the nerves in his climbing.

[Fiend]

Not over until it's over!

[Wood FT]

Pretty bloody impressive performance at Oliana by young Martina Demmel. Among many, many 8s over this past week, she has onsighted Humildes Pa Casa 8b+ and then finished with Joe Blau 8c+ an hour later 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CM9dR8mDyLQ/?igshid=uvc85mo8k64i

Started climbing in 2017 or something. Remarkable.

[monkey boy]

Pretty bloody impressive performance at Oliana by young Martina Demmel. Among many, many 8s over this past week, she has onsighted Humildes Pa Casa 8b+ and then finished with Joe Blau 8c+ an hour later 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CM9dR8mDyLQ/?igshid=uvc85mo8k64i

Started climbing in 2017 or something. Remarkable.

I saw this yesterday. What an absolute mutant. She's done something like 900 routes this past year!

[MischaHY]

Pretty bloody impressive performance at Oliana by young Martina Demmel. Among many, many 8s over this past week, she has onsighted Humildes Pa Casa 8b+ and then finished with Joe Blau 8c+ an hour later 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CM9dR8mDyLQ/?igshid=uvc85mo8k64i

Started climbing in 2017 or something. Remarkable.

She's savage at the crag. We climbed together a little in Frankenjura and it's interesting to see how little it bothers her when she can't do a specific move or sequence. She'll carefully try her way through the options and then if it doesn't work, just move on. She also tends to do one very careful working go to get beta sorted and then get on redpoint straight away which combined with onsighting a lot seems to be a very good tactic as she's got the gas and is ready to improvise.

Something to point out is that although she's been climbing since early 2017, she was racing downhill ski for quite a few years before that from what I understand. So although she started climbing in that period, she already had a good conditioning base and excellent aerobic capacity.

[duncan]

Something to point out is that although she's been climbing since early 2017, she was racing downhill ski for quite a few years before that from what I understand. So although she started climbing in that period, she already had a good conditioning base and excellent aerobic capacity.

And is accustomed to how hard real sportspeople train.

Thanks for the background, not at all surprised to hear she has prior elite sports experience.

[Wood FT]

There's definitely something to be said for this. Wasn't Ben Davison into athletics/biking or something before climbing, and Mat Wright? I was into rollerblading as a youth. That appears to have just given me the ability to lob onto my hips from height and a fading dynamic style.

[remus]

Wasn't Ben Davison into athletics/biking or something before climbing, and Mat Wright?

I think Ben was in to triathlons, not sure about Matt.

[submaximal gains]

Soudain Seul (The Big Island sit) has had its first repeat, by Nico Pelorson.

He thinks its only 8C+ because "For the grading, I would feel bad claiming I have climbed one of the only two 9A’s on Earth, when I think deep down this boulder is not worth this sacred rating. 8C+ seems more consistent to me. I think there are many climbers around the world who could succeed on it with sufficient investment, and that would not be the case with a true 9A boulder."

 Most importantly, he also used a book under his knee pad to improve the knee bar. The book he used was “Partir” by Tina Seskis (I am not sure what the title is in the English version)

 Interview here https://fanatic-climbing.com/interview-nico-pelorson-revient-sur-soudain-seul-interview-nico-pelorson-about-soudain-seul/

[Coops_13]

Saw a screenshot of a BoulderingMag post on someone's IG story saying DW has done SW Sit V17. Cannot find the post though. One day too early to be an (shit) April Fools...You heard it here first unless this is incorrect

[Bradders]

Saw a screenshot of a BoulderingMag post on someone's IG story saying DW has done SW Sit V17. Cannot find the post though. One day too early to be an (shit) April Fools...You heard it here first unless this is incorrect

Why would that be a significant repeat though?! 

Fantastic if he has and wouldn't surprise, he couldn't be any closer than the other day when he dropped it putting the toe hook up for the last move! [/size

[Coops_13]

Saw a screenshot of a BoulderingMag post on someone's IG story saying DW has done SW Sit V17. Cannot find the post though. One day too early to be an (shit) April Fools...You heard it here first unless this is incorrect

Why would that be a significant repeat though?! 

Fantastic if he has and wouldn't surprise, he couldn't be any closer than the other day when he dropped it putting the toe hook up for the last move! [/size

Didn't want to create a whole new thread in case I was wrong 

[monkey boy]

Alex Johnson has done The Swarm. This is a great example of perseverance and determination. Brilliant effort!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CNNdPLOBTw2/

[jwi]

Diaz-Rullo has done First round, first minute in Margalef.

I was watching this

https://www.instagram.com/p/CNNsEzGIQ4p/

and started to think that with all the knee bars discovered by the technically skilled climbers who have been trying it lately, would it maybe now be possible to climb it without the manufactured holds?

[SA Chris]

Alex Johnson has done The Swarm. This is a great example of perseverance and determination. Brilliant effort!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CNNdPLOBTw2/

Amazing effort

[rjtrials]

would it maybe now be possible to climb it without the manufactured holds?

Which part of the route is manufactured?