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significant repeats (Read 2615737 times)

Teaboy

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#9375 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 08:10:44 pm
I remember watching Toby do it in 2003 and he made it look pretty casual. I remember the weather was shit as it was a bit drizzly and my camera lens was getting damp, plus it was going dark... He just romped up it. I can remember so clearly how he stood on top and flexed. RIP my friend.

Do you have any photos of his ascent?

I'd not seen the footage posted above and it looks harrowing as I imagined, seems like harder version of Thin Air with a much bigger ground fall and no feet.

Doylo

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#9376 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 08:29:23 pm
I'm sure it was, maybe it was one of the bonus outtake extras?? Anyway here's the clip itself:



Dan filmed it but using my camera. Irish Si did Gaia same day then the mist came in.

36chambers

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#9377 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 08:43:33 pm
I'm sure it was, maybe it was one of the bonus outtake extras?? Anyway here's the clip itself:


I'm pretty sure it was in Shock of the New, the other feature length that used to be on the crimperE6 youtube channel. I can't find it at the moment, must have been taken down :(

Fiend

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#9378 Re: significant repeats
December 29, 2020, 09:03:46 pm
It was definitely one of the two then ;)

MaxiMuscle t-shirts and flexing on top, I bet Keenus didn't do any of that....

shark

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#9379 Re: significant repeats
January 02, 2021, 07:20:27 pm
When I was making Stonnis I couldn’t find anyone who’d entertain the idea of Harder Faster, even people who’d climbed that grade and had tried it on toprope. One told me that trying it had given them nightmares and someone else (I forget who) told me that there’s a good argument for it being closer to E10.

Was it Seb as he wondered that when we were chatting shit a couple of weeks ago?

Also Franco has confirmed on ukc that Adam Watson repeated it 8 years ago which I don’t think was reported at the time.

remus

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#9380 Re: significant repeats
January 02, 2021, 07:49:17 pm
Seb's left a comment to that affect in the ukc logbook so could well be.

jwi

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#9381 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2021, 07:40:36 pm
Adam Ondra has onsighted Les Massey Ferguson in the Calanques. Even if this is just another day at the office for Ondra, it is notable because it was the first 8b+ ever onsighted (by Elie Chevieux in 1996) and since then there have not been any other known onsights of this route.

Duma

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#9382 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2021, 07:49:02 pm
That is class.

Fiend

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#9383 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2021, 08:58:10 am

SA Chris

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#9384 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2021, 09:10:20 am
That's bloody impressive.

Bradders

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#9385 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2021, 09:51:03 am
 :agree:

Remember there being some pretty small holds on the right!

cofe

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#9386 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2021, 09:58:25 am
Brilliant.

gollum

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#9387 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2021, 01:53:13 pm
Very impressive.

Nibile

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#9388 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2021, 03:29:01 pm
Outstanding.

submaximal gains

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#9389 Re: significant repeats
January 24, 2021, 11:12:14 am
Brittany Goris climbed East Coast Fist Bump (5.14a/8b+ trad) placing gear on lead, joining a very small list of women to climb a 5.14 or harder trad route

Nice blog post about the process here https://brittanygoris.com/2021/01/12/the-impossible-dream/

Coops_13

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#9390 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2021, 03:52:38 pm
BD video of Seb on Akira:

dunnyg

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#9391 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2021, 04:01:43 pm
Enjoyed that, it looks like uk lime. Ace!

Fiend

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#9392 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2021, 04:35:34 pm
Hated that, it looks like uk lime. Vile!

SA Chris

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#9393 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2021, 04:51:40 pm
Intrigued to know if that's the exact line Fred took. Must have felt hard without spotters or any pads of any substance (assuming). Top looks pretty arbitrary though.

jwi

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#9394 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2021, 05:53:03 pm
Intrigued to know if that's the exact line Fred took.

Just follow the sika ... 🤷🏼‍♂️

remus

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#9395 Re: significant repeats
February 09, 2021, 08:20:59 am
Of niche interest, but I've just finished compiling the collective ukb knowledge from this thread in to https://climbing-history.org/ It's been a journey! Along the way Micky Page has become less of a dark horse, Caff has climbed at least 13 E9s and Varian has compiled an outrageous list of FAs.

Honorable mentions to Doylo, Adam Lincoln and JB. Stalwarts of significant repeats.

Wood FT

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#9396 Re: significant repeats
February 09, 2021, 08:27:00 am
I'd forgotten about Micky Page doing Monk Life 15 times in a session for photos. Bonkers.

carlisle slapper

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#9397 Re: significant repeats
February 09, 2021, 10:22:23 pm
Tim Blake dodged the welsh patrols to repeat Hippocampus. in 13years i've not heard of another repeat? so its a good effort being arsed and doing it in a session as well. It'll probs open the door to the honeypot send train now.


 

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