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significant repeats (Read 4237083 times)

jwi

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#9350 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2021, 07:40:36 pm
Adam Ondra has onsighted Les Massey Ferguson in the Calanques. Even if this is just another day at the office for Ondra, it is notable because it was the first 8b+ ever onsighted (by Elie Chevieux in 1996) and since then there have not been any other known onsights of this route.

Duma

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#9351 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2021, 07:49:02 pm
That is class.

Fiend

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#9352 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2021, 08:58:10 am

SA Chris

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#9353 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2021, 09:10:20 am
That's bloody impressive.

Bradders

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#9354 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2021, 09:51:03 am
 :agree:

Remember there being some pretty small holds on the right!

cofe

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#9355 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2021, 09:58:25 am
Brilliant.

gollum

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#9356 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2021, 01:53:13 pm
Very impressive.

Nibile

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#9357 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2021, 03:29:01 pm
Outstanding.

submaximal gains

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#9358 Re: significant repeats
January 24, 2021, 11:12:14 am
Brittany Goris climbed East Coast Fist Bump (5.14a/8b+ trad) placing gear on lead, joining a very small list of women to climb a 5.14 or harder trad route

Nice blog post about the process here https://brittanygoris.com/2021/01/12/the-impossible-dream/

Coops_13

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#9359 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2021, 03:52:38 pm
BD video of Seb on Akira:

dunnyg

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#9360 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2021, 04:01:43 pm
Enjoyed that, it looks like uk lime. Ace!

Fiend

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#9361 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2021, 04:35:34 pm
Hated that, it looks like uk lime. Vile!

SA Chris

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#9362 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2021, 04:51:40 pm
Intrigued to know if that's the exact line Fred took. Must have felt hard without spotters or any pads of any substance (assuming). Top looks pretty arbitrary though.

jwi

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#9363 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2021, 05:53:03 pm
Intrigued to know if that's the exact line Fred took.

Just follow the sika ... 🤷🏼‍♂️

remus

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#9364 Re: significant repeats
February 09, 2021, 08:20:59 am
Of niche interest, but I've just finished compiling the collective ukb knowledge from this thread in to https://climbing-history.org/ It's been a journey! Along the way Micky Page has become less of a dark horse, Caff has climbed at least 13 E9s and Varian has compiled an outrageous list of FAs.

Honorable mentions to Doylo, Adam Lincoln and JB. Stalwarts of significant repeats.

Wood FT

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#9365 Re: significant repeats
February 09, 2021, 08:27:00 am
I'd forgotten about Micky Page doing Monk Life 15 times in a session for photos. Bonkers.

carlisle slapper

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#9366 Re: significant repeats
February 09, 2021, 10:22:23 pm
Tim Blake dodged the welsh patrols to repeat Hippocampus. in 13years i've not heard of another repeat? so its a good effort being arsed and doing it in a session as well. It'll probs open the door to the honeypot send train now.


Goat

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#9367 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2021, 08:54:58 pm
Billy Ridal has repeated The Boss. There's also a video on his Instagram.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CL7b4p6jH3r/

submaximal gains

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#9368 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2021, 09:07:20 pm
Billy Ridal has repeated The Boss. There's also a video on his Instagram.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CL7b4p6jH3r/

Wow! without a spotter as well. I'd thought this might go years before it had a repeat.

shark

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#9369 Re: significant repeats
March 02, 2021, 11:13:26 pm
Billy Ridal has repeated The Boss. There's also a video on his Instagram.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CL7b4p6jH3r/

Wow! without a spotter as well. I'd thought this might go years before it had a repeat.

It’s already been repeated by Micky Page last year.

Awesome stuff Billy.

Thanks goat... whoever you are  ;)

SA Chris

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#9370 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2021, 08:40:40 am
it's an acronym, Greatest Of All Time.

Good effort from the youth.

monkey boy

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#9371 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2021, 07:13:03 am
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMKkwJEDAS6/

Nathan did the Boss yesterday.

gme

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#9372 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2021, 11:30:28 am
A changing of the guard seems to be in progress, in bouldering at least.

Still appears to be a ways to go on this front re routes.

Wood FT

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#9373 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2021, 11:33:18 am

spidermonkey09

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#9374 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2021, 11:34:28 am
Good video, looked really smooth, but is drying holds with a fan on grit ok now?

Just saw Bradders commented on IG after I posted. Even if there are extremely isolated instances where it might be ok, spraying about it on insta is surely a poor idea.

 

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