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significant repeats (Read 2615749 times)

Nibile

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#9300 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2020, 10:43:35 am
Good video that one of Webb.
I particularly like the soundtrack, the fact that he no longer wears an anklet and that he uses the word "anticlimatic".

Bradders

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#9301 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 07:35:28 am
https://www.instagram.com/p/CH3E9SynMqo/?igshid=1mwa655r4emc

8a+ / 8b / 8b+ (who knows?) onsight by Hazel Findlay, pretty impressive whichever one of those grades it is!

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#9302 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 08:36:13 am
She has made a few comments about the soft grading there - sounds great.

Stu Littlefair

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#9303 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 10:06:26 am
Barrows warmed up on this in the mist whilst we were there, but I fell off. 8a+ is probably fair.

Either, way is this the hardest onsight by a Brit? Am I right in remembering that Ros flashed Face du Rat?

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#9304 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 10:12:03 am
Am I right in remembering that Ros flashed Face du Rat?

She did.

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#9305 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 12:04:24 pm
Barrows warmed up on this in the mist whilst we were there, but I fell off. 8a+ is probably fair.

Either, way is this the hardest onsight by a Brit? Am I right in remembering that Ros flashed Face du Rat?

Molly TS has onsighted an 8a+, can't remember what it was but it's on her 8a.nu logbook.

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#9306 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 01:43:28 pm
Molly onsighted 8b this past summer (something near Innsbruck looking at her 8a account)

Interesting that Hazel gave Donkey Kong Ext 8a+ but labelled Pig in the Roof 8b in her pic. I thought Pig was easier than DK... Both seemed to make sense at bottom end 8b in the context of others in Leonidio (I.e. could easily be 8a+)

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#9307 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 06:09:51 pm
Interesting that Hazel gave Donkey Kong Ext 8a+ but labelled Pig in the Roof 8b in her pic. I thought Pig was easier than DK...
Weird that you and Hazel might have different opinions on gtades...

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#9308 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 07:35:53 pm
It sounds like Akira has had a couple of repeats: https://www.instagram.com/p/CH52khijvz7/

It seems the controversy continues as it sounds like some holds have broken in the initial boulder problem taking it from 8B to 7C (says Fred).

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#9309 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 07:59:19 pm
Slash grade incoming

jwi

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#9310 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 08:16:50 pm
haha, my bet is 8c+/9a.

manically refreshing https://www.facebook.com/argrimpol waiting to get the gossip

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#9311 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 11:31:46 pm

It seems the controversy continues as it sounds like some holds have broken in the initial boulder problem taking it from 8B to 7C (says Fred).

How conwenient.

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#9312 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 03:05:42 am

It seems the controversy continues as it sounds like some holds have broken in the initial boulder problem taking it from 8B to 7C (says Fred).

How conwenient.

Can confirm via a friend that worked Akira pretty hard that the initial section used to be 8B. His breakdown was 8B to a crap rest on a 3 finger pocket into a second 8B to the lip. He never tried the final rope section (8a?) as he thought it was pointless.
Bit Sad for Fred that it finally gets repeated but not with it's initial difficulty, even at 9a it would still have been a monumental achievement at the time of the FA. Loved Rouhling ever since the cartoon he sent to OTE as his submission to a grade debate article, legendary trolling before trolling existed.

Nibile

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#9313 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 09:03:21 am
Which cartoon?

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#9315 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 09:49:04 am

It seems the controversy continues as it sounds like some holds have broken in the initial boulder problem taking it from 8B to 7C (says Fred).

How conwenient.

Can confirm via a friend that worked Akira pretty hard that the initial section used to be 8B. His breakdown was 8B to a crap rest on a 3 finger pocket into a second 8B to the lip. He never tried the final rope section (8a?) as he thought it was pointless.
Bit Sad for Fred that it finally gets repeated but not with it's initial difficulty, even at 9a it would still have been a monumental achievement at the time of the FA. Loved Rouhling ever since the cartoon he sent to OTE as his submission to a grade debate article, legendary trolling before trolling existed.

Whoís the friend? Pretty important info as without other confirmation that itís massively changed no one is going to believe Fred.

As far as I can see without proof itís changed it will be down as what ever grade it is now.

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#9316 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 10:21:15 am
hugely disappointed that a slash grade is not forthcoming (I blame Lucien Martinez). 9a apparently

https://www.instagram.com/p/CH7ehJVjZ9Y/

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#9317 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 11:37:15 am

It seems the controversy continues as it sounds like some holds have broken in the initial boulder problem taking it from 8B to 7C (says Fred).

How conwenient.

Can confirm via a friend that worked Akira pretty hard that the initial section used to be 8B. His breakdown was 8B to a crap rest on a 3 finger pocket into a second 8B to the lip. He never tried the final rope section (8a?) as he thought it was pointless.
Bit Sad for Fred that it finally gets repeated but not with it's initial difficulty, even at 9a it would still have been a monumental achievement at the time of the FA. Loved Rouhling ever since the cartoon he sent to OTE as his submission to a grade debate article, legendary trolling before trolling existed.

Whoís the friend? Pretty important info as without other confirmation that itís massively changed no one is going to believe Fred.

As far as I can see without proof itís changed it will be down as what ever grade it is now.

Phil Gondoux, about 15 years ago he tried it a lot. He had good form for hard roof stuff, 2nd ascent of Fatman sit (8b+ before that nutter took a 🔨 to it) as well as lots of other stuff around that grade FA of Queen of Hearts, Tortuga, etc.
From what I recall he had done the 2 halves and linked into the 2nd 8B and thought it 8Cish to the lip (no route grade offered).
Might be slightly out on the details as it was a while ago, but probably not by much.
Fred did a lot of the FAs and repeats of the early 8's in the area (Targasonne) and was regarded as a beast by all the locals and not a man to be doubted on his claims.

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#9318 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 11:48:18 am
Gav, for what little it's worth, Phil had a training replica on his woody that I saw him do big links on. The thing was nails, despite being a pretty solid 8A climber at the time I couldn't do more than a few moves at a time and some of them not at all. Nothing 7C about it. It was my anti-style though, big moves on incuts and deep 2 fingers, lots of cuts and campusing.

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#9319 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 11:56:43 am
Why is this not mentioned when the route has been discussed in the past? Or has it ? 

I personally think that it wonít have changed that much and the grade of 9a will be right. That was cutting edge when it was done so itís not in anyway saying Fred  was shit.

If stuff has fallen off since Fred did it it would usually mean it got harder, although itís possible it got easier. But two 8Bs linked together (8C ) is  along way from what den is saying so for it to change that much would need some pretty large holds to be added. This would be obvious on the limited footage thatís available of Fred on it.

My bet is that it hasnít changed a lot, the route was 9 a at the time but in a very odd style that wasnít climbed much in that period so felt desperate when people did.
Steep roof climbing was not a thing until well into the late 90s/ 2000s.

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#9320 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 11:58:59 am
Gav, for what little it's worth, Phil had a training replica on his woody that I saw him do big links on. The thing was nails, despite being a pretty solid 8A climber at the time I couldn't do more than a few moves at a time and some of them not at all. Nothing 7C about it. It was my anti-style though, big moves on incuts and deep 2 fingers, lots of cuts and campusing.
I donít doubt it.

I have never been a doubter of Fredís despite hearing all the shit talk about him I here and in France at the time. I just never believed the grade.

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#9321 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 12:03:53 pm
Phil Gondoux, about 15 years ago he tried it a lot. He had good form for hard roof stuff, 2nd ascent of Fatman sit (8b+ before that nutter took a 🔨 to it) as well as lots of other stuff around that grade FA of Queen of Hearts, Tortuga, etc.
From what I recall he had done the 2 halves and linked into the 2nd 8B and thought it 8Cish to the lip (no route grade offered).
Might be slightly out on the details as it was a while ago, but probably not by much.
Fred did a lot of the FAs and repeats of the early 8's in the area (Targasonne) and was regarded as a beast by all the locals and not a man to be doubted on his claims.


This is why UKB is great.
25 years of the climbing world doubting a man about the difficulty of what would have been the world's hardest route. Then someone comes along and casually mentions his mate, who's apparently fully capable of appraising Akira's difficulty, tried the route and was making good progress confirming it as in the 8b-into-8b-into 8a ballpark and thus more or less what the FA said.
« Last Edit: November 23, 2020, 12:09:38 pm by petejh »

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#9322 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 12:08:50 pm
I just did a quick google of Phil gondoux ( as I had not heard of him) and he also seems to have a lot of doubters and controversy surrounding him.
Words such as ďinfamousĒ and ďdoubtful ascentĒ immediately  appear in the google searches.

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#9323 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 12:11:03 pm
 :slap:

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#9324 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 12:22:21 pm
neverending saga...

there are, by the way, plenty of absolute beast who have not climbed 9b despite trying very hard.

 

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