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significant repeats (Read 4210744 times)

danm

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#9175 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2020, 10:24:09 pm
Going back to the legend that is Dave Graham, he did a talk in Ambleside of all places years ago, and afterwards went to the pub with some of the people who attended. It became apparent over the course of a few beers that like a true dirtbag he hadn't bothered arranging anywhere to stay and was winging it in the hope the local climbing community would sort him out, which of course they did.

abarro81

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#9176 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2020, 10:57:05 pm
From what I've seen of Micky at the school he's very much not just a boulderer and pretty damn good at looping round in circles...

SA Chris

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#9177 Re: significant repeats
October 07, 2020, 09:40:15 am
Going back to the legend that is Dave Graham, he did a talk in Ambleside of all places years ago, and afterwards went to the pub with some of the people who attended. It became apparent over the course of a few beers that like a true dirtbag he hadn't bothered arranging anywhere to stay and was winging it in the hope the local climbing community would sort him out, which of course they did.

He did the same up here. Was going to crash at one mates house, but then got the offer of going to the pub with a few locals, so opted for that, hoping to get  doss somewhere else after.

Doylo

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#9178 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 10:49:20 am
Barefoot Charles 9a in Font has been repeated again and the bloke reckoned 8c. Turns out climbing is easier in climbing shoes. Quelle surprise.


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#9179 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 10:52:05 am
Got to love some intensive allezing

spidermonkey09

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#9180 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 10:55:33 am
Great footage, he rinsed that. Quality heel work, can't imagine Charles was doing it that way unless he's painting his heels with stealth...

Bradders

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#9181 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 11:11:58 am
Not using pads probably adds half a grade n'all.

Fiend

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#9182 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 11:18:59 am
Allezallezallezallezallez le downgrade plus grand!

Still looks pretty brutally fingery / tensiony etc etc  :strongbench:

Doylo

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#9183 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 11:27:51 am
Bet Ned’s licking his chops at those heels... 👠

teestub

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#9184 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 11:43:06 am
Allez mon dieu!

I have vague recollection of the stand bit being 8A+ on its own, is that right? Start looks minging but that bit looks great.

UnkArl

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#9185 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 11:49:34 am
Bet Ned’s licking his chops at those heels... 👠
8A/+ ?  :popcorn:

Nibile

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#9186 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 11:59:50 am
Allez mon dieu!
Wasn't it "Allez mon vieux"? Not that it has any importance whatsoever.
On a side note, my knees now hurt just by watching it.

andy_e

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#9187 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 12:26:51 pm
Allez mon dieu!
Wasn't it "Allez mon vieux"?

Oui, c'est ça. Chapeau, looked easier than Albert doing it!

Bradders

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#9188 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 12:34:47 pm
Allez mon dieu!

I have vague recollection of the stand bit being 8A+ on its own, is that right? Start looks minging but that bit looks great.

Yeah that's right, and agree looks mega!

monkey boy

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#9189 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2020, 03:30:37 pm
Allez mon dieu!

I have vague recollection of the stand bit being 8A+ on its own, is that right? Start looks minging but that bit looks great.

Start originally got 8A+ and 8B from low right but think it's considered 8A+ from low right (more minging crimps) and 7C+ now. Great problem though

Orrincoley

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#9190 Re: significant repeats
October 11, 2020, 02:11:04 pm
Buster did Hubble according to Steve's Insta

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGNFCuKDYzg/?igshid=102ym72tyjl5y

cowboyhat

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#9191 Re: significant repeats
October 12, 2020, 12:19:36 pm
The comments on that post are amazing. Someone with the handle

DourOldScotMSmithItsNotLikeitWasInMyDay has accused Buster of cheating because of the knee pad. Which does tie in well with the discussed Dave Graham opinion on tactics.

Because not eating for a year and dehydrating yourself for a week are legit but not knee pads. Which got me thinking: props to Matt Wright for what must be among the heaviest ascents of Hubble, if not even the first to break the ten stone barrier?

submaximal gains

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#9192 Re: significant repeats
October 12, 2020, 12:34:56 pm
Billy Ridal did Superman at Crag X on Saturday according to his 8a.nu log.

36chambers

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#9193 Re: significant repeats
October 12, 2020, 02:01:02 pm
Because not eating for a year and dehydrating yourself for a week are legit but not knee pads. Which got me thinking: props to Matt Wright for what must be among the heaviest ascents of Hubble, if not even the first to break the ten stone barrier?

That says a lot if Matt is one of the heaviest. I remember him looking lean af in whatever picture, or video, I saw him topless in.

cowboyhat

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#9194 Re: significant repeats
October 12, 2020, 02:45:39 pm
Well whos done it these days?

Off the top of my head here is a list of Hubble ascents involving no research;
Moon, Smith, Gaskins, Mclure, Bosi, Megos, Dawson, Buster

I reckon Matt Wrights got half a stone on all of them. He isn't heavy by any stretch of the imagination, for a human, or even a rock climber. Looks about 68kgs.

So there you have it; knee pad or not. If you want to do Hubble, lose weight.



(He's the same dimensions as me except I'm twenty years older and haven't just climbed Hubble so rounding down quite a bit...)

abarro81

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#9195 Re: significant repeats
October 12, 2020, 03:02:07 pm
Dunning too (IIRC from a conversation with him, it sounded like he was very light at the time)..

Simpson  :worms:
Gaskins
:worms:

Doylo

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#9196 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2020, 12:57:33 pm
.

So there you have it; knee pad or not. If you want to do Hubble, lose weight.

Thought that was same for most hard climbs?

yetix

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#9197 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2020, 09:20:48 pm
Billy Ridal managed Superman sit, Keen Roof  and Fat Lip today.

DAVETHOMAS90

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#9198 Re: significant repeats
October 17, 2020, 12:32:26 am
With a side of judgement and you're trying to argue Dave's point that he shouldn't take the route. 

That's like the old tradsters bi^&*ing about the youngsters.  Except you're the old sportster bi^&*ing. 

We deal with the technology and circumstance that we have, and if we are being forthright then we disclose everything and go with it.  He's not hiding anything.  He's being honest and that's good enough for me.

Sorry for the late post.

Hi Mr Squatch  ;D

I'm not saying "he shouldn't take the route". I'm not applying black/white thinking, just trying to establish the facts, while also trying to make sure we're not comparing apples (cheaper) with oranges (more expensive .. maybe  ;D ).

I think it's a good thing to try to develop.

I'm a big fan of Matt, and find what he's been doing really refreshing. Andy F, I'm referencing your post from earlier, but being really lazy. Sorry. I'll try to post up a reply properly.

What's more important, is that people don't start claiming Woodology at the school, with "any feet", then the bottom really would drop out of the market.
:P

DAVETHOMAS90

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#9199 Re: significant repeats
October 17, 2020, 12:43:55 am
Further more, and to hopefully keep on topic with Significant Repeats, ascents of routes like Hubble with the pad, ARE significant, because that's what's being traded currently.

I don't think Significant Repeats should be just about usurping the old, with something harder (or, er .. easier  ;D ), but about being more conscious of what's going down out there; it should be less of a competition about what's significant/insignificant.

 

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