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significant repeats (Read 2504208 times)

Doylo

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#9150 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2020, 10:39:54 am
According to Jordan Bs insta Keiran Forest has done big bang

Quite good UKC write up https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/09/the_big_bang_9a_by_kieran_forrest-72473

Sounds like a proper beast. Wouldn't have thought Progress will take him too long.

The best bit is it was apparently his 3rd day on and he’d had a board sesh in the morning.

dunnyg

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#9151 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2020, 10:46:40 am
Ha, hero. Got to cool down on something after you try hard I guess

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Adam Lincoln

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#9153 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2020, 11:05:19 am
According to Jordan Bs insta Keiran Forest has done big bang

Quite good UKC write up https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/09/the_big_bang_9a_by_kieran_forrest-72473

Sounds like a proper beast. Wouldn't have thought Progress will take him too long.

The best bit is it was apparently his 3rd day on and he’d had a board sesh in the morning.

5th day on!

Then went the Diamond next day and pretty much flashed The Brute (had been on it years ago, but obvs couldn't remember a thing), then almost Pink Panther. Decking out on stretch as he missed a clip.

spidermonkey09

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#9154 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2020, 11:07:22 am
Beast  :strongbench:

Presumably he walked away from the deckout?! If hes going to uni anywhere near any climbing there'll be some good ticks next year.

You been down to the Diamond Lincoln? I haven't been in years.

gme

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#9155 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2020, 11:12:00 am
Beast  :strongbench:

! If hes going to uni anywhere near any climbing there'll be some good ticks next year

Sheffield I believe. Comps back on next year though so may go back indoors.   

Duma

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#9156 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2020, 12:59:01 pm
Will Bosi has done Serenata 8C

First of the grade for him?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CEtk1NsjpCa/?igshid=3zcai9ptwyh2

andy_e

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#9157 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2020, 01:17:48 pm
This thread has been mind-blowing of late. Chapeau to all the wads making it happen!

remus

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#9158 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2020, 01:28:10 pm
Will Bosi has done Serenata 8C

First of the grade for him?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CEtk1NsjpCa/?igshid=3zcai9ptwyh2

He's done Practice of the Wild before and I think he took 8C for that, though it seems like quite a few people take 8B+ for it these days.

Bradders

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#9159 Re: significant repeats
September 04, 2020, 05:51:37 pm
Beast  :strongbench:

! If hes going to uni anywhere near any climbing there'll be some good ticks next year

Sheffield I believe. Comps back on next year though so may go back indoors.

What a crying shame that would be. Still, each to their own.

Wood FT

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#9160 Re: significant repeats
September 05, 2020, 09:47:15 pm
Maddy Cope repeated ‘Final Round’ today, Tom Randall’s E9 on the iconic IIam Rock, Dovedale. 8b on trad. Very impressive.

remus

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#9161 Re: significant repeats
September 06, 2020, 08:26:01 am
Maddy Cope repeated ‘Final Round’ today, Tom Randall’s E9 on the iconic IIam Rock, Dovedale. 8b on trad. Very impressive.

Nice! Is that the second ascent? I thought Jordan B might have done it but can't find anything online about it.

Wood FT

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#9162 Re: significant repeats
September 06, 2020, 08:32:26 am
Maddy Cope repeated ‘Final Round’ today, Tom Randall’s E9 on the iconic IIam Rock, Dovedale. 8b on trad. Very impressive.

Nice! Is that the second ascent? I thought Jordan B might have done it but can't find anything online about it.

When he repeated ‘Eyes Wide Shut’ I think he mentioned Final round too.

Jordan, are you there? Have you done it too?

Wood FT

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#9163 Re: significant repeats
September 06, 2020, 08:39:15 am
Maddy Cope repeated ‘Final Round’ today, Tom Randall’s E9 on the iconic IIam Rock, Dovedale. 8b on trad. Very impressive.

Nice! Is that the second ascent? I thought Jordan B might have done it but can't find anything online about it.

When he repeated ‘Eyes Wide Shut’ I think he mentioned Final round too.

Jordan, are you there? Have you done it too?

Actually in the spirit of Slackers, I’ve found it.

...I first had a look a few weeks back just after repeating toms HXS on ilam rock earlier in the day. (That's a toughie)

Is that it?

yetix

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#9164 Re: significant repeats
September 11, 2020, 02:03:07 pm
Jack Pal got the third ascent of Flip Flopera (only Varian and Aidan have also done it?) at the Bowderstone the other day. Must be pretty significant that given its at arguably the most trafficked venue in the Lakes? 

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#9165 Re: significant repeats
September 11, 2020, 06:37:34 pm
Maddy Cope repeated ‘Final Round’ today, Tom Randall’s E9 on the iconic IIam Rock, Dovedale. 8b on trad. Very impressive.

Nice! Is that the second ascent? I thought Jordan B might have done it but can't find anything online about it.

When he repeated ‘Eyes Wide Shut’ I think he mentioned Final round too.

Jordan, are you there? Have you done it too?

Don't think Jordan has seen this today, but I can confirm that he repeated it a couple of years ago. Although it didn't take him particularly long (2 visits?) he did find the climbing very tough and he was chuffed to do it as it is a quality bit of rock. Respect to Maddie, this is no pushover for the grade.

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#9166 Re: significant repeats
September 19, 2020, 06:26:49 pm

Wood FT

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#9167 Re: significant repeats
September 20, 2020, 08:55:10 pm
Will Bosi has flashed Isla de Encanta:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFUyD9lDCn7/?igshid=105g651r5s28y

That’s cool. Has a British 8B been flashed before? (Apart from that one in the pass that people view as 8A+)

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#9168 Re: significant repeats
September 20, 2020, 09:38:44 pm
Will Bosi has flashed Isla de Encanta:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFUyD9lDCn7/?igshid=105g651r5s28y

That’s cool. Has a British 8B been flashed before? (Apart from that one in the pass that people view as 8A+)

Far as I know yes it's just Nathan Phillips' flash of Ropes of Maui that's the other contender. Any others?

turnipturned

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#9169 Re: significant repeats
September 20, 2020, 09:45:20 pm
Yeah it’s well impressive, recon it’s pretty benchmark 8B.

Be interested if he did it the OG way or kneebar way, regardless both pretty knacky methods, even more impressive.

I assume he went to investigate Aidans recent exploits?!? Probably have to ask his management that though! 


Doylo

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#9170 Re: significant repeats
September 20, 2020, 10:14:51 pm
Probably have to ask his management that though!

Can’t be long until we’re getting press conferences?

remus

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#9171 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2020, 08:24:03 am
Probably have to ask his management that though!

Can’t be long until we’re getting press conferences?

My vote's on you for media relations manager.

SA Chris

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#9172 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2020, 08:50:59 am
pubic relations more like!

Bradders

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#9173 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2020, 10:00:50 am
Be interested if he did it the OG way or kneebar way, regardless both pretty knacky methods, even more impressive.

Kind of more impressive than Ropes in that sense I think. Short, knacky, power boulder as opposed to more of a longer power endurance thing. 

JackPal

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#9174 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2020, 11:18:58 am
Ropes is a crazy flash imo. Lots of little tricks to learn to make it feel 8A+. Think some folk are still taking 8B too. Props to Nathan.

Flashing Isla I think is mega as the crux is very dynamic and folk seem to think it’s mid 8B. It’s also not an easy style to flash even if you can Inspect all the holds off the floor.

Comp climbers are operating on a completely different level it seems.

 

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