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significant repeats (Read 2541586 times)

Dexter

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#9100 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2020, 09:41:28 am
Strong effort   :strongbench:

Any insight on how many kneebars used?

Adam Lincoln

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#9101 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2020, 09:50:39 am
Whilst i'm on I thought i'd add a few bits i caught wind of over the last few weeks or so.

He also made an ascent of Texas hold em sit, not sure what the crack is with this, be interested for anyone who knows the background of the problem better than me. For sure it's hard and probably a FA, unless Gaskin's actually did it.

Didnt sam do fa of this? Or was it just a repeat?

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#9102 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2020, 11:13:57 am
Maybe, I remember reading at the time Sam did something and suggested 7C. Aidan says it’s 8B or so, so I very much doubt they are the same thing. Aidan is pretty conservative with his grades. I’m lucky to do the moves on his ‘8As’

James Malloch

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#9103 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2020, 11:52:36 am
Yeah the high left hand sidepull, I did the moves on the stand but didn't link even from after the crux of LW to the end. Gutted, a proj gone.

I think I know the one you mean. You use it to then move your RH from the starting pocket. I used an intermediate LH crimp just below that to get to it, but it would be very hard to do a move of it.

Shame, but I guess holds break...

teestub

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#9104 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2020, 12:22:58 pm
Maybe, I remember reading at the time Sam did something and suggested 7C. Aidan says it’s 8B or so, so I very much doubt they are the same thing. Aidan is pretty conservative with his grades. I’m lucky to do the moves on his ‘8As’

Aaaah good old South Lakes, clear as mud as usual!

JackPal

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#9105 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2020, 01:17:02 pm
Yeah the high left hand sidepull, I did the moves on the stand but didn't link even from after the crux of LW to the end. Gutted, a proj gone.

I think I know the one you mean. You use it to then move your RH from the starting pocket. I used an intermediate LH crimp just below that to get to it, but it would be very hard to do a move of it.

Shame, but I guess holds break...

Yeah they sure do.

That intermediate is what the problem revolves around now haha. You do a move off it and then a harder move off the undercut massive pocket.

Coops_13

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#9106 Re: significant repeats
July 30, 2020, 09:49:28 pm
Another V16 repeat in RMNP:

Bradders

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#9107 Re: significant repeats
August 01, 2020, 04:56:35 pm
Second 9A for James Pearson having only recently become a dad. Pretty inspiring!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDOywd4FyEY/?igshid=1ftrflr0ocuqz

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#9108 Re: significant repeats
August 01, 2020, 10:03:27 pm
9a.....  ;)

Good on him too!

lukeyboy

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#9109 Re: significant repeats
August 04, 2020, 09:07:40 am
9a.....  ;)

Good on him too!

I thought it was OK to capitalise the grade of a sport route as long as you shout it to anyone who will listen

SA Chris

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#9110 Re: significant repeats
August 04, 2020, 11:16:24 am
https://www.facebook.com/JesseDuftonGBParaclimber/

Forked Lightning Crack, some effort!

Wood FT

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#9111 Re: significant repeats
August 06, 2020, 09:14:08 am
Underworld, the Bransby/Vickers E8 in the Hollow Caves Bay of Pembroke, has had its first repeat and first deep water solo by Bob Hickish, swiftly followed by Howard Lawledge.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDgc-PCDkqb/


remus

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#9112 Re: significant repeats
August 06, 2020, 09:31:19 am
That looks like an amazing line. Any idea how spicy it is as a DWS? Certainly looks pretty high in the pics!

Wood FT

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#9113 Re: significant repeats
August 06, 2020, 11:28:50 am
That looks like an amazing line. Any idea how spicy it is as a DWS? Certainly looks pretty high in the pics!

No idea, sorry. Gotta be S3 for height - you can easily hurt yourself with an imperfect pencil from that height.

cheque

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#9114 Re: significant repeats
August 06, 2020, 11:35:30 am
Certainly looks pretty high in the pics!

The guide says 34m. :blink: The last 8m is only British 5a apparently but we all know what the last 8m of routes in Pembroke are like.

gme

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#9115 Re: significant repeats
August 06, 2020, 03:35:13 pm
Cryptic messages on cafe kraft instagram page suggesting megos has done his ceuse project.

Update since I started writing is he has. Another 9c

gme

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#9116 Re: significant repeats
August 06, 2020, 03:36:11 pm
Ignore me I just saw the megos bit.

JackAus

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#9117 Re: significant repeats
August 07, 2020, 06:00:50 am

Fiend

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#9118 Re: significant repeats
August 07, 2020, 09:47:59 am
Good effort, a nice little video. Bit of a dab-tastic non-king line tho.

JamieG

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#9119 Re: significant repeats
August 07, 2020, 12:17:45 pm
Definitely a good effort. Looks super hard. Although, those tick marks are verging on donkey lines. :spank:

jwi

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#9120 Re: significant repeats
August 09, 2020, 11:11:05 am
Barbara Zangerl and Jacobo Larcher have repeated Kammerlander's Kampfzone 8c (8a obligatory!), 5 pitches, in Rätikon, on consecutive days.

haydn jones

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#9121 Re: significant repeats
August 09, 2020, 03:56:13 pm
8a obligatory! wtf! :strongbench: :strongbench:

Duma

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#9122 Re: significant repeats
August 10, 2020, 06:58:15 am
No details of the route, but on Molly TS IG stories she says she's onsighted 8b.

Wood FT

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#9123 Re: significant repeats
August 10, 2020, 07:10:37 am
Quote from: Dumalink=topic=10607.msg614549#msg614549 date=1597039095
No details of the route, but on Molly TS IG stories she says she's onsighted 8b.

Great stuff. Quickly becoming an expat crusher in the vein of Stew Watson and Bolger.

The 8b Could be Fortuna at Götterwandl?

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gotterwandl-19395

https://www.vertical-life.info/en/outdoor/tyrol/imst-and-surroundings/gotterwandl/fortuna

remus

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#9124 Re: significant repeats
August 10, 2020, 08:04:17 am
No details of the route, but on Molly TS IG stories she says she's onsighted 8b.

Well good! She's been on an amazing run of form recently.

 

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