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significant repeats (Read 4232556 times)

Mark Lloyd

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#9000 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2020, 01:43:23 pm
I am always more impressed by how much beer he can consume and still onsight 7c+/8a or e7.....
He's not bad on the cheap French Plonk either as I can attest to after having bumped into him and his mate in the south of France many moons ago, they travelled on the back of his motorbike. Also remember at LPT he flashed Bad Bad Boy on a toprope that got dunney chuntering (he's been on it before) on the drive back to Leeds

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#9001 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2020, 01:55:28 pm
I heard he has the strength of ten men, who each possess the strength of ten men.

I also heard he was The Stig for a while.

ali k

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#9002 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2020, 04:29:10 pm
Doyle’s cult might switch allegiances if any more of these stories emerge. Gaskins ain’t nobody compared with this guy by the sound of it.

remus

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#9003 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2020, 04:35:13 pm
Doyle’s cult might switch allegiances if any more of these stories emerge. Gaskins ain’t nobody compared with this guy by the sound of it.

Know why Gaskins keeps his head meticulously shaved? Andy is actually his alter ego. Don the wig and away he goes.

Mark Lloyd

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#9004 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2020, 06:37:36 pm
 but did he do the Yorkshire big three in a day ?

Duncan campbell

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#9005 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2020, 06:57:08 pm
 
I am always more impressed by how much beer he can consume and still onsight 7c+/8a or e7.....
He's not bad on the cheap French Plonk either as I can attest to after having bumped into him and his mate in the south of France many moons ago, they travelled on the back of his motorbike. Also remember at LPT he flashed Bad Bad Boy on a toprope that got dunney chuntering (he's been on it before) on the drive back to Leeds

Think I met him in Pembroke a few years back. Think he onsighted from a distance though a friend said he’d seen him abbing down it earlier in the day...

Also a hilarious story concerning him and Greenwood. We were in the pub and it’s getting towards last orders, Rob is at the bar (lad) and Mitchell’s mate asks if he wants another, pointing out that Rob is at the bar.

I don’t know how many of you are aware of how bad Rob’s fashion sense is (if you are reading this Rob, I’m sorry but don’t try and deny it  :lol: ) but Rob was wearing some loud short sleeved shirt, potentially Hawaiian in patern, and Mitch just says;

“Him! In a shirt like that!? Of course I’m having another”

:lol:

P.s hope I’ve got the right guy here.

ali k

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#9006 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2020, 07:08:33 pm
Think he onsighted from a distance though a friend said he’d seen him abbing down it earlier in the day...
Also known as a Bristol onsight!

Ged

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#9007 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2020, 08:21:37 pm
but did he do the Yorkshire big three in a day ?

Andy laughed when I asked him that, and confirmed that he didn't, but tends to keep that quiet.

petejh

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#9008 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2020, 09:30:39 pm
I held Andy’s ropes on Disillusioned Screw Machine, probably in ‘94. He cruised it on-sight, but forgot to take any wires for the upper wall.. so just ran it out.

Watched another of climbing's collection of dark matter particles - Iain Small - fall off the onsight of Disillusioned Screw Machine.

SA Chris

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#9009 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2020, 09:33:52 pm
Are you sure it wasn't Art Garfunkel?

shark

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#9010 Re: significant repeats
June 10, 2020, 12:15:46 am
Maybe Shark could do an interview. That would be good!

He’s a piss taking bastard. Would be a good one!

PlainCroi$$ant

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#9011 Re: significant repeats
June 17, 2020, 10:24:14 pm
Jakob Schubert has flashed Never Ending Story and sent New Base Line and Practice of the Wild in Magic Wood in the space of 2 days according to his ig. Strong!
« Last Edit: June 17, 2020, 10:33:32 pm by PlainCroi$$ant »

Coops_13

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#9012 Re: significant repeats
June 17, 2020, 10:42:06 pm
Jakob Schubert has flashed Never Ending Story and sent New Base Line and Practice of the Wild in Magic Wood in the space of 2 days according to his ig. Strong!
That's a very impressive ticklist. Link here: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CBi4PM3D5pa/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

tomtom

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#9013 Re: significant repeats
June 18, 2020, 09:40:41 am
(Edit - soz is this has been on before): Not sure if this is a SigRep or not - but it’s quite a fun write up of a MEdwards E10 repeat in Cornwall. Copied from the Cornwall Climbing Club Facebook page. (Anyway - it’s something to read on a wet Thursday)
“ FAST FORWARD on REWIND

Most of our members are still cowering in their homes, as they are old, vulnerable and timid, however a few have been out, post lock-down, doing generally well protected routes in fairly remote areas and keeping social distance.

Our president Wojciech has been busy (and please remember he’s a weekend warrior, only climbing when his stressful job working for the NHS allows), repeating the Mark Edwards route Rewind at Carn Vellan. Given an E10 7a grade and following the line of an old sport route, this climb, which climbs the roof of a collapsed cave or mine has quite a history, and like a lot of Mark’s routes has been avoided for years - until our president decided to try an E10 on for size. I’m not sure what grade he thought it in UK grades (E9 7a maybe?), but he thinks it’s F8a+. As ever, Wojciech does not like to talk about his achievements, and just gets on with them quietly, however I was able to get him to answer a few questions via email. The interview is below:

Carn Vellan is a special crag with its own atmosphere. How did you find it?

Conditions are the hard part, it can't be too warm, you need good wind, low (spring/autumn) sun and a longish dry period of weather. Of course a calm see is the icing on the cake. The atmosphere is challenging at the beginning but the more time you spent there, the more pleasant it gets. Starting off a huge boulder (“the gnomes”) adds to the story.

How many attempts before success?

I didn't count attempts. Did few trips just to work out gear, conditions and crux. That time I was only TR soloing. I also copied crux on my home wall. When all rock got cleaner and I started sticking crux I made two "close" lead attempts. Next weather got too hot, lock-down happened, and I had to wait till May for cooler conditions. On final day I failed on first attempt, when entering top crack, second go was the one. All my lead attempts were lead rope solo.

Did you put all the gear in on lead? Or was some in place?

Yes, all gear was placed on lead, there is no fixed gear on route.

Where is the crux?

Main Crux is about 7m up the route. However the start got harder after I snapped a few holds off and also just after crux. Route now has no glued or cemented holds.

Would you give the route any stars?

It's a pretty line with great variety of movement, on very steep rock, it's natural with no fixed gear. Apart from the start all difficulties are well protected. It deserves 3 stars.

Can you explain your self-belaying system and what gadgets did you use?

I used CT Easy Move for T.R. practice and W.C. Revo for rope lead solo. I mounted Revo on the bottom anchor. This is different than most common lead rope solo set ups. None of my methods are recognised as safe and both devices were used against manufacturer’s guidance and recommendation.

Did you do any specific training - dieting/visualisations?

Yes, I drunk vodka, smoked pipe ,and ate pasties only on rest days. I copied the crux onto my woodie and kept looking at it when doing endless power stamina circuits. In free time I also deeply contemplated British grading system! I eat a lot of veg, eggs and quality Polish sausages. Supplementing on: IBCAA, sleep, sun and good vibe.

I also asked Wojciech about his future plans – which I can’t divulge here, however I think there are more routes to go at Carn Vellan and I’m sure he wants to repeat Alexi’s route.

I know Wojciech has contacted Mark, who congratulated him on his achievement. Mark’s facebook page is always worth a look, particularly the historical stuff. On it there is an interesting picture of him on Rewind with a prophetic comment by Pat Littlejohn.

So well done Wojciech!”
« Last Edit: June 18, 2020, 09:46:54 am by tomtom »

Fiend

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#9014 Re: significant repeats
June 18, 2020, 09:45:42 am
One of the most significant repeats in the UK ever?? Mysterious and notorious (and spectacular) Medwards route possibly confirmed at a similar grade as it was given...

Also, ace work Jakob, the lack of IFSC and Olympics this year could give some amazing outdoor ascents by the circuit lads and lasses.

tomtom

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#9015 Re: significant repeats
June 18, 2020, 09:47:45 am
One of the most significant repeats in the UK ever?? Mysterious and notorious (and spectacular) Medwards route possibly confirmed at a similar grade as it was given...

Also, ace work Jakob, the lack of IFSC and Olympics this year could give some amazing outdoor ascents by the circuit lads and lasses.

I liked the vodka, pipe and sausage training regime myself.

Duncan campbell

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#9016 Re: significant repeats
June 18, 2020, 10:19:56 am
Mega stuff on the extra info on Rewind! Mega effort Wojciech!!

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#9017 Re: significant repeats
June 18, 2020, 12:16:51 pm
Amazing effort from Wojciech, however this was always going to happen, he has pretty much climbed everything else!! Love the picture on CC page that is what you call steep trad, steepest in the UK??

dunnyg

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#9018 Re: significant repeats
June 18, 2020, 12:25:38 pm
If the horizon wasnt there, you would assume that the photo had been tilted. Crag looks amazing

SA Chris

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#9019 Re: significant repeats
June 18, 2020, 07:27:43 pm
Can we just call him Wad for short. Amazing effort.

jwi

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#9020 Re: significant repeats
June 18, 2020, 09:09:46 pm
Jakob Schubert has flashed Never Ending Story and sent New Base Line and Practice of the Wild in Magic Wood in the space of 2 days according to his ig. Strong!

Not bad two days


Nike Air

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#9021 Re: significant repeats
June 19, 2020, 09:51:02 am
 Rewind repeat..! Mega  :bounce:

On a side note what's the deal with carn vellan now, did the other sport routes keep their bolts?

Ive got the 2000 cc guide to the area which says rewind was originally bolted which I didn't know. I do remember much fuss about the other bolts there not long ago but I never did find out the outcome of the many debates.

mrjonathanr

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#9022 Re: significant repeats
June 19, 2020, 06:39:23 pm
Jakob’s long weekend looks like a lifetime achievement list most of us could only dream of.

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#9023 Re: significant repeats
June 19, 2020, 11:54:36 pm
I held Andy’s ropes on Disillusioned Screw Machine, probably in ‘94. He cruised it on-sight, but forgot to take any wires for the upper wall.. so just ran it out.

Watched another of climbing's collection of dark matter particles - Iain Small - fall off the onsight of Disillusioned Screw Machine.

How many hours had he already been death-crimping his way up it at that point?

moose

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#9024 Re: significant repeats
June 20, 2020, 07:41:08 am
Jakob’s long weekend warm-up looks like a lifetime achievement list most of us could only dream of.

fixed that for you

 

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