UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 4209546 times)

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4942
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#900 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2010, 06:58:36 pm
I did the first ascent since the hold breakage of Manchester Dogs today. Its not changed the grade i don't think,  probably still  V11? :shrug:  but you have to use a heel to do the move to flat hold at top now as you can't get a good enough drop knee in anymore.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1970
  • Karma: +120/-0
#901 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2010, 07:05:23 pm
What's snapped and which drop knee?

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4942
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#902 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2010, 07:08:04 pm
What's snapped and which drop knee?

The jug at the start is now a crimp. When i did it last year i used a drop knee off the start jug to go from right hand side pull up to flat hold at top. Maybe others do it differently...

SamD

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 67
  • Karma: +5/-0
#903 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2010, 07:08:44 pm
I was pipped to the post by adam today, and snagged the second ascent. Having never done it before the hold broke, I really can't compare difficulty with before and after but i would say it probably squeezes in at 8A.

SamD

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 67
  • Karma: +5/-0
#904 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2010, 07:10:14 pm
That said i really have no idea about grades; adam is definitely more qualified to grade it than i am.

c.j.d.

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Great.
  • Posts: 704
  • Karma: +46/-5
#905 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2010, 08:28:36 pm
Nice one.  I had a quick play on this last week. 

I have always done the second move with my feet low anyway, so the foot thing does'nt make any odds to me.

Always bigs ups to re-ascending a Higg-piece.  Good effort. :)

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#906 Re: significant repeats
February 22, 2010, 12:27:00 am
I knew you'd come out of lurking to tell the world about your ascent Sam. Good effort you pair of beasts.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#907 Re: significant repeats
February 22, 2010, 08:25:44 pm
at least you got there before CJD upgraded it to 8a+ ;) ;D

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4278
  • Karma: +341/-25
#908 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 09:32:58 am
Sounds like it's a FA rather than a repeat but this seemed as good a place as any to put it: Tom Bolger's done 9a in Santa Linya: http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/   :bow:

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#909 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 09:43:35 am
Effort. Sounds like he's on amazing form from the blog.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13395
  • Karma: +673/-67
  • Whut
#910 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 10:09:04 am
About time brits started ticking some more 9s.

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#911 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 10:40:49 am
About time brits started ticking some more 9s.

Pull your finger out then  ;)

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#912 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 10:50:00 am
That 6 is upside down Fiend.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#913 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 12:26:16 pm
Mawson said he was close.amazing!

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9623
  • Karma: +264/-4
#914 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 02:01:11 pm
Its only a matter of time.

north_country_boy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 939
  • Karma: +37/-0
#915 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 04:32:49 pm
Great Effort Tom you beast!!   :thumbsup:

chris_j_s

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 209
  • Karma: +5/-0
#916 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2010, 05:16:19 pm
Awesome effort from Tom and a good end to what must have been a frustrating 9a quest - either falling off the last move of various 9a's or having them downgraded by Ramon!

Ethan

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 415
  • Karma: +16/-1
#917 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2010, 12:00:02 am
First 8c by Daila Ojeda, Fish eye in Oliana!

http://englishdailaojeda.blogspot.com/

some snazzy pictures

Ethan

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 415
  • Karma: +16/-1
#918 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2010, 11:47:56 am
Therese Johansen has done four 8A's in three days in Chironico!
http://bjornpohl.blogspot.com/

chris_j_s

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 209
  • Karma: +5/-0
#919 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2010, 07:05:23 pm
Tom Bolger has just done another 9a, Fuck the System. Thats 2 9a's in 3 days!

http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/

lukeyboy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 519
  • Karma: +24/-0
#920 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2010, 07:59:13 pm
Tom Bolger has just done another 9a, Fuck the System. Thats 2 9a's in 3 days!

http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/
Beast  :great:

willackers

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 870
  • Karma: +126/-0
    • Vimeo
#921 Re: significant repeats
March 07, 2010, 12:01:05 pm
Mark McQuade made the 3rd ascent of Sanction on Friday.

3rd Scotsman to climb font 8b! Effort!  :great:

Ethan

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 415
  • Karma: +16/-1
#922 Re: significant repeats
March 08, 2010, 10:05:55 am
Seems that Ondra has made a super quick (3rd try) ascent of A meurte F9a a few days ago.

http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=8499

Cool video of Cédric Lachat sending it there too.

Krank

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • VIVA LA CHAPEL
  • Posts: 951
  • Karma: +38/-3
  • Its meant to be hard
#923 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 01:37:10 pm
3 tries is wrong, just plain wrong. The word mutant fails to describe this lad.

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#924 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2010, 01:54:52 pm
The word mutant fails to describe this lad.

How about "Beast!"?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal