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significant repeats (Read 4235568 times)

kingholmesy

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#8850 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 02:07:36 pm
@Fiend - Wojciech rope solos a lot as he works shifts and can't always get partners.  He had also worked this route a lot, including falling off on lead more than once without injury before his successful ascent.  I therefore don't think this was particularly dangerous.  As such I think this ascent was permissible in the current circumstances - unless you take the view that no-one should be climbing any trad routes at all.  :shrug:

Anyway there's enough threads at the moment about these sorts of issues, so let's save this one for mention of significant ascents rather than re-running the debate here.

SA Chris

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#8851 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 02:10:57 pm
What a legend.

Sorry, does this refer to Mark Edwards, or Wojciech?

kingholmesy

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#8852 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 02:13:46 pm
@Alex-the-Alex - Rewind follows a crack-line.  From what I know, Nuts and Monster Munch do not and I think it is much less likely they would go on natural gear.  Worth bearing in mind too that it is a massively overhanging lump of rock!

teestub

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#8853 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 02:18:58 pm
Don’t suppose Wojciech got a passing fishing boat to film him?  ;D

tomtom

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#8854 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 02:47:45 pm
Don’t suppose Wojciech got a passing fishing boat to film him?  ;D

Spanish trawler ?

Alex-the-Alex

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#8855 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 03:34:14 pm
What a legend.

Sorry, does this refer to Mark Edwards, or Wojciech?

Wojciech. Legend as in "Did you hear what Woj did last night? Ledge."

@Alex-the-Alex - Rewind follows a crack-line.  From what I know, Nuts and Monster Munch do not and I think it is much less likely they would go on natural gear.  Worth bearing in mind too that it is a massively overhanging lump of rock!

Cheers Il get down for a look one day  :thumbsup:

SA Chris

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#8856 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 03:52:58 pm
Yeah, i know the term, i just though you were saying ME was a legend.

sherlock

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#8857 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 04:42:01 pm
Yeah, i know the term, i just though you were saying ME was a legend.

I understand that some folk believe a couple of his routes are legendary. As in unicorns..... :worms:
« Last Edit: May 20, 2020, 04:51:13 pm by sherlock »

SA Chris

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#8858 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 04:49:48 pm
Most folk..

petejh

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#8859 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 05:20:43 pm
Lead rope soloing is a bit faffy in my limited experience but I’ve never done it enough to have a slick system. It’s also physically harder as you have more rope hanging off you than when normal leading. Good effort lead soloing on an overhanging 8a+ trad route!
Bit of an obvious one for a repeat.. surprised no one else has put in the effort when you consider English and Wales-based wads have travelled to the Mournes, Fairhead and various Scottish crags to repeat hard stuff (and Dave MAC travelling to do Walk of life).  Cornwall’s not that far!

Fiend

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#8860 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 06:28:07 pm
Kingholmsey - I haven't been following any other threads sorry. Maybe people who care about this sort of thing can continue it there. It just occured to me that's all - as much about the perception of it rather than the actual risk. I'm actually far more interested in the usual Medwards hullaballoo  :2thumbsup:

Duncan campbell

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#8861 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 07:24:21 pm
This is the coolest thing ive read on here for ages. What a legend. This is probably covered elsewhere but are Nuts and Monster Munch at all climbable with the bolts cut?


If I remember correctly what he said, I think Luke Dawson and his brother Pete have done Monster Munch? Think Luke said some of the bolts were still clippable and maybe you had to put a couple of wires in at the top? Said it was pretty soft for the grade.

jstrongman

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#8862 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 09:34:52 am
Bit of an obvious one for a repeat.. surprised no one else has put in the effort when you consider English and Wales-based wads have travelled to the Mournes, Fairhead and various Scottish crags to repeat hard stuff (and Dave MAC travelling to do Walk of life).  Cornwall’s not that far!

With potentially more UK based holidays this summer, might not be too long before it and the surrounding routes see some more attention. 

shark

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#8863 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 10:43:48 am

Wojciech. Legend as in "Did you hear what Woj did last night? Ledge."

Ah. So that’s how you pronounce his name.

SA Chris

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#8864 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 11:04:20 am
Glad he never climbs with Mina.


Alex-the-Alex

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#8865 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 11:22:29 am

Wojciech. Legend as in "Did you hear what Woj did last night? Ledge."

Ah. So that’s how you pronounce his name.

No. Woj is short for Wojer, as in Wojer Wabbit. It was more of an example.

That's good goss Duncan. Cheers.

kingholmesy

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#8866 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 11:47:38 am

Quote
Ah. So that’s how you pronounce his name.

It's pronounced Voy-teck.  The local training wall he has built is called Vortex as a play on this.

Wojciech is usually shortened to Woj when written (by me at least), cos frankly who can remember how to spell Polish names.

shark

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#8867 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 12:26:22 pm
Welease Wojer


Duma

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#8868 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 03:23:47 pm

remus

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#8869 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 03:40:42 pm
That's friggin sweet! Is that her first 9a? Good one to start with.

SA Chris

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#8870 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 04:03:41 pm
Beastliness! Of course it's easier if you have small fingers and can fit more in the pockets.

(Just kidding it's the standard excuse when a female does anything hard)

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#8871 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 04:22:53 pm
9a might not be that 'ard anymore but that route will always be savage.

Any other female ascents?

monkoffunk

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#8872 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 04:41:39 pm
9a might not be that 'ard anymore but that route will always be savage.

Any other female ascents?

I think not!

Fiend

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#8873 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 04:54:30 pm
Great stuff. Always a favourite in the comps.

mark20

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#8874 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 05:44:58 pm
Wojciech Szymanowicz has repeated Rewind (E10, 7a) at Carn Vellan.

So far as I know this is the second ascent, and the first placing all the gear on lead.

I don’t know what he thinks of the trad grade, but Wojciech commented to me previously that on bolts he thought it would be hard 8a+.

Social distancing was maintained as he rope soloed it.  :o

Wow that's brilliant. And to self belay on such a steep crag - amazing! Looks mega in that vid Ru posted

 

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