UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 4235184 times)

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#8825 Re: significant repeats
February 28, 2020, 10:07:37 pm
Get in line  :wub:

spalmer

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 7
  • Karma: +1/-0
#8826 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2020, 09:38:37 am
REM by Paul Robinson - downgraded from 8C+ to 8B+



 

turnipturned

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 715
  • Karma: +107/-1
#8827 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2020, 11:15:01 am
REM by Paul Robinson - downgraded from 8C+ to 8B+



 


Huh, really surprised that video wasn’t on Mellow YT  :whistle

Climbing needs more beef

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#8828 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2020, 11:38:51 am
Good footage of a well-lit tree against a dark rock. I concur some grading spats would liven things up.

AMorris

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 418
  • Karma: +64/-0
  • Trying to find form
#8829 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2020, 11:48:20 am
From PR in the comments on this vid:

Quote
I have now climbed 3 boulders from Giuliano on this trip that have had extremely inflated grades... Red, given 8A which i felt to be closer to 7B+ (flashed), Fuoco di Pagli originally given 8A+/B which I also flashed and felt closer to 7C+, and REM given 8C+ which I felt like was a very straightforward boulder with no trickery or weird beta at all and felt to be in the hard 8B+ range.  Watch the videos on the Mellow Channel for all of these climbs with their original grades. I think high grades get people popularity and views on Youtube/Instagram and this is really not a good thing for the sport of climbing.

Here we go, this should be good  :popcorn: :worms:

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2574
  • Karma: +166/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#8830 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2020, 12:53:02 pm
Looks like the perfect problem for crimp waif Robinson, no wonder he found it easy.

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#8831 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2020, 01:03:55 pm
Exactly what I was about to say, I like the "crimp waif" term, very good.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#8832 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2020, 01:09:28 pm
Cameroni is a crimp waif too though.  Hardly Mr Creosote is he. Fair play to P-Rob for having a pair of bollocks. Hope BigJimmys ok stuck in middle.

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2574
  • Karma: +166/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#8833 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2020, 01:16:33 pm
I think Cameroni is just tall and good at climbing, not particularly strong (in relative terms obviously). He’s always shaking like you in his vids 😂

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#8834 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2020, 01:23:04 pm
Sign of true pedigree shaking  ;) I usually try to emulate a freezing terrified dog trying to shit on a lamppost on fireworks night.

countyyoungin

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Tim Blake
  • Posts: 45
  • Karma: +3/-0
#8835 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2020, 01:25:20 pm
 :worms: :worms: :worms:

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#8836 Re: significant repeats
March 09, 2020, 01:25:43 pm
Exactly what I was about to say, I like the "crimp waif" term, very good.
You were hardly John Dunne in your heyday, I bet the current beard counts as added weight training  :P

P.S. lol @Doylo, that's climbing elegance to aim for!

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2574
  • Karma: +166/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#8837 Re: significant repeats
March 12, 2020, 10:04:12 pm
One day ascent of The Kingdom (8C) from Matt Fultz. Deffo not a crimp waif 💪

https://www.instagram.com/p/B9mkKxbJTDD/?igshid=10nw0cslir9av

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#8838 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2020, 06:36:49 am
One day ascent of The Kingdom (8C) from Matt Fultz. Deffo not a crimp waif 💪

https://www.instagram.com/p/B9mkKxbJTDD/?igshid=10nw0cslir9av

Whoa, dench.

lemony

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 81
  • Karma: +0/-0
#8839 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2020, 11:30:34 am
Julia Chanourdie - Super Crackinette (9a+) at St Leger. First female repeat?

https://www.instagram.com/p/B9rqJKMpQem/

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#8840 Re: significant repeats
March 16, 2020, 10:34:48 am

bigironhorse

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 767
  • Karma: +16/-0
    • YouTube
#8841 Re: significant repeats
March 21, 2020, 07:15:27 am


Zach Galla, The Game V15

kingholmesy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 564
  • Karma: +47/-0
#8842 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2020, 08:38:34 pm
Wojciech Szymanowicz has repeated Rewind (E10, 7a) at Carn Vellan.

So far as I know this is the second ascent, and the first placing all the gear on lead.

I don’t know what he thinks of the trad grade, but Wojciech commented to me previously that on bolts he thought it would be hard 8a+.

Social distancing was maintained as he rope soloed it.  :o

AJM

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 454
  • Karma: +24/-0
#8843 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2020, 09:23:43 pm
Wojciech Szymanowicz has repeated Rewind (E10, 7a) at Carn Vellan.

So far as I know this is the second ascent, and the first placing all the gear on lead.

I don’t know what he thinks of the trad grade, but Wojciech commented to me previously that on bolts he thought it would be hard 8a+.

Social distancing was maintained as he rope soloed it.  :o

Wow. Be really interested to see more details on this one come out.

kingholmesy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 564
  • Karma: +47/-0
#8844 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2020, 11:16:39 pm
Wow. Be really interested to see more details on this one come out.

I doubt there will be any!  Wojciech is a mere non-sponsored local.  I’m not even sure he would want me mentioning it on here, but I thought it was significant.  The only other thing he said to me when working it was that some of Mark Edwards’ glued holds had broken.

kingholmesy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 564
  • Karma: +47/-0
#8845 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 10:04:10 am
That's interesting.  My understanding has always been that Rewind takes the line of what had been called Blue Sky Lightening and originally given 8a.  This is also suggested by Mark's FB page here: https://www.facebook.com/compasswestclimbing/posts/worlds-first-claimed-e10-and-still-unrepeated-carn-vellan-cornwall-rewind-e10-45/803551763004476/

Note he says: "Within a short time, Blue Sky Lightning was re-climbed and re-established as a full trad route, and given the new grade of E10".

As you say, I think it was either Nuts Are Not The Only Fruit (originally given 8b) or Monster Munch (originally given 8b+) that Mark later claimed could be 8c+/9a.

I caught up with Wojciech via messenger last night and his only other comments on Rewind were: that it is a bit scary at the start up to a rest before the crux, but that there is then good gear from there to the top; that it is quite hard to get good conditions at Carn Vellan; and that it would be good if someone else repeated it and gave their thoughts on the grade - personally I think this would be more likely if it wasn't for Mark Edwards' reputation and the fact that it is way down in Cornwall.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2020, 10:17:23 am by kingholmesy »

Alex-the-Alex

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 220
  • Karma: +17/-0
#8846 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 10:40:02 am
This is the coolest thing ive read on here for ages. What a legend. This is probably covered elsewhere but are Nuts and Monster Munch at all climbable with the bolts cut?

If I was climbing anywhere near that level I think the Edwards legacy would be a turn on rather than a put off. As much as anything to see how much was ego and how much was true. Either way its a great addition to a fascinating chapter of uk climbing. Nice one Wojciech


abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4287
  • Karma: +341/-25
#8847 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 10:53:33 am
If you include your Facebook sources (also Mark Edwards), Rewind is somewhere between 8a/b and 8c+/9a

Always thought we needed the slash grade 8/9a  :lol:

Motown

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 63
  • Karma: +3/-0
#8848 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 11:01:06 am
If I was climbing anywhere near that level I think the Edwards legacy would be a turn on rather than a put off. As much as anything to see how much was ego and how much was true. Either way its a great addition to a fascinating chapter of uk climbing. Nice one Wojciech
[/quote]

 :agree:

Although he probably left a bunch of physical and emotional damage, I love reading about Edwards’ ascents and potential villainy, and it’s great when that is explored further and hopefully proved/disproved.

And rope soloed... Wow! From those in the know, is that any more sketchy than a standard effort? (‘Standard’ as in pretty amazing)

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#8849 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 12:34:13 pm
As much as repeating / FA-ing Medwards routes is always a jolly wheeze, isn't there a lot of talk at the moment (including from MRTs) about sticking to low-risk, low-key climbing as part of a careful approach to the new "unlimited travel for exercise" lockdown-easing?? I personally don't give a shit either way but I can't imagine "Coastguard Rescues Multiple-Injured Lone Climber From Cornish Coast" on the front of the Truro Weekly Gazette looking particularly beneficial for future approaches and access to climbing??

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal