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significant repeats (Read 2419589 times)

Orrincoley

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#8775 Re: significant repeats
December 04, 2019, 06:46:04 pm
Mat Wright did Serendipity 8B+ today

remus

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#8776 Re: significant repeats
December 04, 2019, 11:04:00 pm
Tomoa Narasaki flashes 8B+ strikes me as significant

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5iNrfEhFE2/

Didnt seem to struggle too much!


dunnyg

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#8777 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2019, 09:59:26 am
I heard Will Hunt had a go a recons it is only 6C+

steveri

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#8778 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2019, 03:26:10 pm
Funnily enough, I was just watching this extended (sit?) start yesterday -


Which just looks nuts.

Will Hunt

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#8779 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2019, 03:28:57 pm
Tomoa Narasaki flashes 8B+ strikes me as significant

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5iNrfEhFE2/

Didnt seem to struggle too much!



He even does a French blow as he comes around the lip. Casual as fuck  :bow:

mr chaz

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#8780 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2019, 08:49:59 pm
Love that United video  :strongbench:

jwi

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#8781 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2019, 08:54:13 am
According to planetgrimpe.com Vadim Timonov did The Kingdom (8C) in a day. On the same day he also did Vecchio leone (8B) 2nd try, Amber (8A+) flash, and Ponk (8A) 2nd go. Not a bad day, eh?

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#8782 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2019, 09:05:14 am
According to planetgrimpe.com Vadim Timonov did The Kingdom (8C) in a day. On the same day he also did Vecchio leone (8B) 2nd try, Amber (8A+) flash, and Ponk (8A) 2nd go. Not a bad day, eh?

Also done Dreamtime on the quick and Off the Wagon 2nd go...

I thought climbing was supposed to be challenging?

highrepute

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#8783 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2019, 09:39:14 am


This video is linked in the article. Shows some of those things

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#8784 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2019, 10:19:31 am
I thought climbing was supposed to be challenging?

Maybe he just needs to get on something hard?

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#8785 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2019, 10:53:22 am
According to planetgrimpe.com Vadim Timonov did The Kingdom (8C) in a day. On the same day he also did Vecchio leone (8B) 2nd try, Amber (8A+) flash, and Ponk (8A) 2nd go. Not a bad day, eh?

Also done Dreamtime on the quick and Off the Wagon 2nd go...

I thought climbing was supposed to be challenging?

I remember watching the old Dosage with Sharma and Graham trying Off the Wagon when it was a proj. Neither did it but Sharma made Graham look like a punt. Watched the vid of this guy absolutely pissing it 2nd go and making them both looks weak as wee wee.

Ged

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#8786 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2019, 01:54:15 pm
To be fair, it does look like an extremely strength specific/basic problem.  I'd imagine there's problems out there where DG could make this chap look a bit less good.

jwi

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#8787 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 11:21:17 am
Apparently Jacob Schubert did give Off the wagon the Flash treatment. Or did he? Not sure I understood his Instagram post. If it was flash it would be his second 8b+ flash.

gme

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#8788 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 11:56:14 am
Not the case. The top out was a flash and took him ages hence him mentioning flash/onsight in his post.

jwi

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#8789 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 02:29:58 pm
thx!

andy popp

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#8790 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 03:03:22 pm
Apparently Jacob Schubert did give Off the wagon the Flash treatment. Or did he? Not sure I understood his Instagram post. If it was flash it would be his second 8b+ flash.

I'm liking your work there JWI.

Jimmy Webb has done Lucid Dreaming. I know 8C ascents are two-a-penny nowadays but this problem still seems like a significant tick.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2020, 03:32:22 pm by andy popp »

Duma

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#8791 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 03:16:44 pm
Esp given the size ratio between him and the holds!

Doylo

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#8792 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 07:41:39 pm
Apparently Jacob Schubert did give Off the wagon the Flash treatment. Or did he? Not sure I understood his Instagram post. If it was flash it would be his second 8b+ flash.

I'm liking your work there JWI.

Jimmy Webb has done Lucid Dreaming. I know 8C ascents are two-a-penny nowadays but this problem still seems like a significant tick.

About 4 stone heavier than the others and did it quicker  :punk: :punk:

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#8793 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 07:43:11 pm
Apparently Jacob Schubert did give Off the wagon the Flash treatment. Or did he? Not sure I understood his Instagram post. If it was flash it would be his second 8b+ flash.


Good basic test of strength for the freaks/wads. The strongest keep foot on and glide up. Low start holding out for a repeat though

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#8794 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 07:52:13 pm
Apparently Jacob Schubert did give Off the wagon the Flash treatment. Or did he? Not sure I understood his Instagram post. If it was flash it would be his second 8b+ flash.


Good basic test of strength for the freaks/wads. The strongest keep foot on and glide up. Low start holding out for a repeat though
Giuliano Cameroni was looking close on his IG stories...

Doylo

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#8795 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2020, 07:55:25 pm
Obvs a fuck load harder as VadimBot did the original 2nd go and hasnít managed it yet.

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#8796 Re: significant repeats
January 15, 2020, 10:32:58 pm
According to Instagram Jim Pope has flashed his first E8, Nahíhan at Gardoms. The last true samurai climber continuing his sterling work.

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#8797 Re: significant repeats
January 16, 2020, 09:31:34 pm
According to Instagram Jim Pope has flashed his first E8, Nahíhan at Gardoms. The last true samurai climber continuing his sterling work.

So this along with Jason's Roof means he's flashed E8 and 8A. Has he flashed 8a?

Has anyone else flashed the triple crown of E8, 8A and 8a?

36chambers

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#8798 Re: significant repeats
January 16, 2020, 10:54:36 pm
According to Instagram Jim Pope has flashed his first E8, Nahíhan at Gardoms. The last true samurai climber continuing his sterling work.

So this along with Jason's Roof means he's flashed E8 and 8A. Has he flashed 8a?

Has anyone else flashed the triple crown of E8, 8A and 8a?

I think Jason's is generally considered 7C+

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#8799 Re: significant repeats
January 16, 2020, 11:04:57 pm
He onsighted Kale Borroka couple of years ago.  Imagine he doesn't tend to fall off 8a's.   Nah'han sounds like it's close to the E7/8 boundary - Pope suggests E7 on his ukc log.  Great effort and presumably first time it's been flashed.  headtorch headpoint of 3 blind mice later on, from ukc log again.  Not a bad day out.   
Has anyone else flashed the triple crown of E8, 8A and 8a?
Pearson deffo
Pasquill?
can't think of many contenders

 

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