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significant repeats (Read 4233656 times)

Bradders

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#8700 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2019, 09:33:06 pm

cheque

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#8701 Re: significant repeats
October 30, 2019, 09:36:27 am
An appropriate route name given his dieting tactics.

jwi

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#8702 Re: significant repeats
October 30, 2019, 07:19:36 pm
Seb Bouin just did a very quick repeat of Patanics (9b) in Rodellar. As his previous 9bs have taken years, it is not surprising that he suggest a downgrade to 9a+ or maybe easier.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4PovJfogGM/

Duma

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#8703 Re: significant repeats
October 30, 2019, 11:36:21 pm
true, he says it suits him, but he's also pretty def improved significantly this year so who knows?

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#8704 Re: significant repeats
October 31, 2019, 03:27:52 pm
Would have been much quicker but the route has been wet.

Duma

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#8705 Re: significant repeats
November 08, 2019, 02:23:05 pm
Emma Twyford has done fisheye in Oliana, from her IG

Duma

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#8706 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2019, 06:01:37 pm
Jakob Schubert has done Perfecto Mundo

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#8707 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2019, 06:11:21 pm
Didn't understand Bouin's rationale RE Patanics. He said it was 100% his style and so he proposed the downgrade. Not sure that makes sense tbh and he is pretty clearly climbing really well currently.

Watched Twyford do Fish Eye yesterday. She pathed it on the warm up go and never looked in much trouble despite not knowing the sequence.   :strongbench:

Duma

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#8708 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2019, 06:52:45 pm
That's not how I read it, he said it felt 9a/+ to him, and he did it quickly and when wet, having just had a chunk of metal taken out of his eye. However as it suited him he only suggested a downgrade to 9a+, seems fair, especially considering he's French ;-)

jwi

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#8709 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2019, 07:14:03 pm
Jakob Schubert has done Perfecto Mundo

... and in a display of stellar work ethic repeated Gancho Perfecto later in the day.

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#8710 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2019, 08:00:25 pm
That's making good use of him swerving the recent Japanese IFSC round  :2thumbsup:

spidermonkey09

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#8711 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2019, 10:27:26 pm
That's not how I read it, he said it felt 9a/+ to him, and he did it quickly and when wet, having just had a chunk of metal taken out of his eye. However as it suited him he only suggested a downgrade to 9a+, seems fair, especially considering he's French ;-)

That's a fair reading too, but there is a distinct whiff of the French downgrade for the sake of it! His recent FA of Detectives has had past attention from Sharma and Andrada and was in guides at 9a+ and he gave it 9a I think. I dunno, I think he may be a lot stronger than be thinks.

jwi

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#8712 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2019, 09:32:45 am
Seb should say what he thinks (or keep mum) as his attempts at diplomacy do not work. That would also be more fun.

OTOH the french climbing community has a problem with its obsession with grades.

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#8713 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2019, 10:54:02 am
Probably still comparing everything to Agincourt.

jwi

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#8714 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2019, 07:28:06 am
Jakob Schubert has flashed Victimes del futur in Margalef, a Ramón Julián 8c+ that everybody seems to take 9a for. Jakob suggest 8c+/9a.

T_B

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#8715 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2019, 12:22:13 pm
Craig Matheson at it again with the 3rd ascent of If 6 was 9 (Birkett, 1992) on Iron Crag int Lakes.

Proper E9 with 8a+ climbing above a ledge. I've done a few routes at Iron including the excellent Committal Chamber which traverses above this. It's that terrifying slick Lakes rock on a crag that just feels very intimidating as it doesn't have a flat base.

Anyway, props etc. Nice interview ont other channel.

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#8716 Re: significant repeats
November 17, 2019, 08:35:38 pm
Buster Martin did First Ley 9a+

Second or third Brit to have climbed 9a+? Or did I totally make that up?

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#8717 Re: significant repeats
November 17, 2019, 08:48:49 pm
Impressive!!

Only Ste Mac is definite I think, Gaskins depends on what you believe, don't think Tom Bolger did (maybe a 9a/+?).

Bradders

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#8718 Re: significant repeats
November 17, 2019, 09:39:45 pm
The list says Ste Mac (Rainman 9B), Gaskins (Violent New Breed 9A+) and Tom Bolger (Ciudad de Dios (9A/+).

So yeah, 2nd, 3rd or 4th depending on your POV.  Awesome anyway.

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#8719 Re: significant repeats
November 18, 2019, 02:08:38 pm
Really great effort anyway, particularly pushing grade abroad too. Not many Brits have climbed even 9a overseas; you can't beat sleeping in your own bed.

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#8720 Re: significant repeats
November 18, 2019, 06:21:50 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/B5A3GqKD9Ys/?igshid=3urpx904rpmb
Looked solid.

The list says Ste Mac (Rainman 9B), Gaskins (Violent New Breed 9A+) and Tom Bolger (Ciudad de Dios (9A/+).

So yeah, 2nd, 3rd or 4th depending on your POV.  Awesome anyway.

Are all four self-coached? Presumably Buster had some support when he was on the junior comp. circuit but he had consciously stepped away from that. It seems to me that all have ploughed their own furrow (McLure by sport-climbing when most were headpointing). N=4 so could be due to chance of course...


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#8721 Re: significant repeats
November 18, 2019, 06:42:05 pm
There seems to be a very droppable move which would leave you very close to the ground (although at that point I guess ground is a few feet below where the belayer is stood. Awesome line, awesome effort.

cheque

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#8722 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2019, 09:28:17 am
Babsi Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher have freed the Nose (The El Cap multipitch, not the VS at Rob’s Rocks) is that significant still?

jwi

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#8723 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2019, 01:37:51 pm
Babsi Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher have freed the Nose (The El Cap multipitch, not the VS at Rob’s Rocks) is that significant still?

Significant if a weaker team than Zangerl & Larcher does it, I think.

duncan

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#8724 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2019, 02:44:15 pm
Babsi Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher have freed the Nose (The El Cap multipitch, not the VS at Rob’s Rocks) is that significant still?

Significant if a weaker team than Zangerl & Larcher does it, I think.

Does Sébastien Berthe count?

A ‘ground up’ ascent (with some en-route resupplying).

 

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