[Nibile]

I think it's worth mentioning that the silent crusher Martin Keller recently climbed The Story of Two Worlds Low, 8c, and opened the sit start to Ninja Skills.
Legendary.

[Doylo]

I think it's worth mentioning that the silent crusher Martin Keller recently climbed The Story of Two Worlds Low, 8c, and opened the sit start to Ninja Skills.
Legendary.

Doesn’t seem that silent?

[Bradders]

Yeah I'd agree, great effort but he's not silent in the slightest! Quite the opposite in fact.

Interesting video about Ninja Skills Sit here (watch with sound on towards the end and you'll hear just how loud he is!!).



Anyone else think that laying siege like this is actually a really poor approach? Recently I've been thinking that if you can't do something in about 3-5 sessions then you should go and do something else/train and come back later, especially in bouldering. You'll get far more done and probably end up a better, more rounded, climber than if you beat yourself into submission on the same set of moves over and over again.

[andy_e]

I really hope that there's no houses nearby...

[Doylo]

I think Nibile meant silent as in ‘under the radar’. He posts plenty of vids etc of attempts so wouldn’t say that’s true.

Anyone else think that laying siege like this is actually a really poor approach? Recently I've been thinking that if you can't do something in about 3-5 sessions then you should go and do something else/train and come back later, especially in bouldering. You'll get far more done and probably end up a better, more rounded, climber than if you beat yourself into submission on the same set of moves over and over again.

I wouldn’t say it’s a poor approach- each to their own. It’s definitely not as fun as doing easier stuff quick. Unfortunately for most maximum limit stuff will take a lot of days. If you wanna do something that hard for you that’s usually what’s involved. Can be pretty miserable though. Some people are seige Meisters and some can’t hack it.

[Nibile]

I think it's worth mentioning that the silent crusher Martin Keller recently climbed The Story of Two Worlds Low, 8c, and opened the sit start to Ninja Skills.
Legendary.

Doesn’t seem that silent?

[DAVETHOMAS90]

I think Nibile meant silent as in ‘under the radar’. He posts plenty of vids etc of attempts so wouldn’t say that’s true.

Anyone else think that laying siege like this is actually a really poor approach? Recently I've been thinking that if you can't do something in about 3-5 sessions then you should go and do something else/train and come back later, especially in bouldering. You'll get far more done and probably end up a better, more rounded, climber than if you beat yourself into submission on the same set of moves over and over again.

I wouldn’t say it’s a poor approach- each to their own... If you wanna do something that hard for you that’s usually what’s involved.

Also, looked as though strength wasn't the limiting factor - as much as necessary skill set.

I can think of plenty of problems that I've returned to when stronger, but haven't fared as well, simply through lack of familiarity. In many ways, they're the best problems.

It looked as though there was steady progress being made throughout too - going from unstickable single moves, to longer links.

Inspiring stuff.

[Fiend]

Anyone else think that laying siege like this is actually a really poor approach? Recently I've been thinking that if you can't do something in about 3-5 sessions then you should go and do something else/train and come back later, especially in bouldering. You'll get far more done and probably end up a better, more rounded, climber than if you beat yourself into submission on the same set of moves over and over again.

Does that apply to sport projects too??

I think it depends on the person, although as long as you're not trashing / polishing the rock or monopolising something popular, and finding the process of sieging genuinely enjoyable, then this method would seem fine.

[SA Chris]

Also lifestyle. If you are a weekend warrior it's a very different time investment than if you are a full timer, as well as figuring out the barrier to success, as mentioned above.

Haven't we had this conversation before?

[Nibile]

I've just read that Italian globetrotter Nicky Ceria was in Yorkshire, where he did - among others surely - Cypher and High Fidelity.
First non British ascents?

[SA Chris]

lmgtfy

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/04/hard_boulders_in_yorkshire_for_niky_ceria-71928

[cheque]

he cares less about the arbitrary number attached to the rock and more about aesthetics, movement and history.

I would like to do Milk-it at the School.'

 

[SA Chris]

What has more aesthetics, movement and history than a School classic.

[jwi]

Spanish youngster Jorge Diaz-Rullo has repeated La Planta de Shiva, 9b, in Villanova de Rosario making him the fifth climber after Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert, Angela Eiter and Jonathan Siegrist to have climbed the route. Jorge Diaz-Rullo has only done two or three 9a+ routes before (depending on your views on Ali Hulk), two of which are his own routes Panorama and Circo Iberico in Cuenca.

The most popular 9bs are

Code: [Select]

                              Name Grade Ascents
1                  Fight or Flight    9b 6
2               La Planta de Shiva    9b 5
3         First Round First Minute    9b 4
4                 Stoking the fire    9b 4
5                       Jumbo love    9b 3
6                       La Capella    9b 3
7                      Neanderthal    9b 3


[jwi]

Code: [Select]

Name                     Grade Ascensionists                                                               
 Fight or Flight          9b    Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert, Sachi Amma, Matty Hong, Piotr Schab
 La Planta de Shiva       9b    Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert, Angela Eiter, Jonathan Siegrist, Jorge Diaz-Rullo
 First Round First Minute 9b    Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Alexander Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi                 
 Stoking the fire         9b    Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert, Sachi Amma                         
 Jumbo love               9b    Chris Sharma, Ethan Pringle, Jonathan Siegrist                               
 La Capella               9b    Adam Ondra, Daniel Woods, Stefano Ghisolfi 


[jwi]

Jonatan Flor has done his first 9a+, “No Pain, No Gain” in Rodellar. https://www.instagram.com/p/ByQmXsDFiqh/

The route was first done by Daniel Fuertes in June 2017, and has also been repeated by Gonzalo Larrocha and Piotr Schab.

[Duma]

James Squire's done Spray of Light 8C in Rocklands.

[Duma]

Ondra esque vid:
 https://www.instagram.com/p/Byh_WXZDOzX/?igshid=l83sfdbkaqle

[sdm]

Angela Eiter has climbed Pure Dreaming 9a at Arco.

https://www.instagram.com/p/ByfJMBeIxop/?igshid=1o5jwnqj3p2yh

[jwi]

and Barbara Zangerl has done “Everything is Karate” 8c+/9a in Bishop (and so has Jacopo). Plenty of strong ladies in Austria!

Interesting to see the  comment by Ondra on the instagram post by Eiter:

Incredible Angy! Mindblowing how you can jump between those distant holds on the top!

[Orrincoley]

Aidan Roberts did Jade 3rd try

[haydn jones]

 

[cheque]

Seb Bouin has done Move at Flatanger apparently.

[jwi]

That went down quickly this time around.

Also, this is only the second time one of Ondra's hard routes (9a+ or above) in Flatanger has been repeated, the other being Kangoroo's Limb which Jakob Schubert repeated in 2016. (Thor's Hammer is apparently downgraded to 9a with the current sequence).

[remus]

Mega! Looking forward to the imminent downgrade