UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 4297370 times)

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#8425 Re: significant repeats
April 06, 2019, 04:07:56 pm
Pascal the 2nd most accomplished British sport climber with four 9as?

gme

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1809
  • Karma: +147/-6
#8426 Re: significant repeats
April 06, 2019, 05:04:18 pm
1st Brit to do one home and away as well I think.

user deactivated

  • Guest
#8427 Re: significant repeats
April 06, 2019, 06:05:46 pm
Must be those Morrison’s sausage and egg butties. White bread is the key obvs

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4298
  • Karma: +345/-25
#8428 Re: significant repeats
April 06, 2019, 07:21:06 pm
Pascal the 2nd most accomplished British sport climber with four 9as?

Think Tom B has done more (2 in Margalef and maybe 4-5 in Santa Linya?).. has o/s harder too..

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4235
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#8429 Re: significant repeats
April 06, 2019, 07:36:31 pm
Pascal the 2nd most accomplished British sport climber with four 9as?

Think Tom B has done more (2 in Margalef and maybe 4-5 in Santa Linya?).. has o/s harder too..

Catxasita, Ciudad de Dios, Direct Fabelita,, Fuck the System, La Fabela pa la Enmienda, Open your Mind Direct and Seleccio Natural in Santa Linya. Era Vella and Victimas Perez in Margalef.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#8430 Re: significant repeats
April 06, 2019, 09:04:44 pm
I tried to look for his scorecard to check but looks like he’s gone underground  ;)

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#8431 Re: significant repeats
April 06, 2019, 09:06:53 pm
Must be those Morrison’s sausage and egg butties. White bread is the key obvs

He’ll be on the booze when he gets home for a few months to recharge.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13448
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
#8432 Re: significant repeats
April 06, 2019, 09:52:30 pm
Great stuff, legendary route, holds the size of fly's wings etc ;)

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13448
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
#8433 Re: significant repeats
April 07, 2019, 09:51:35 am
Hey c’mon.... I was being serious. I couldn’t find the funny bit.

Isn't the funny bit hiking all the way up to Ceuse in a blizzard to work one move on a lowball so grotty it makes Il Pirata look like Careless Torque?? I like barefoot Charles too.

DAVETHOMAS90

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Dave Thomas is an annual climber to 1.7m, with strongly fragrant flowers
  • Posts: 1726
  • Karma: +166/-6
  • Don't die with your music still inside you ;)
#8434 Re: significant repeats
April 07, 2019, 03:30:39 pm
Heard on the grapevine Alex Waterhouse has done The Fly (9a) in Rumney.

edit:

https://www.8a.nu/scorecard/alex-waterhouse/routes/?AscentClass=0&AscentListViewType=0&GID=33fa8f08fe0aceee9d3e8a9176ae1f4e

Sorry Duma, as evident from the complete lack of response, that's all pretty meaningless!

Edit: great work Alex. Good to hear a Debn bay doing the business!

 :2thumbsup:

Great work from Ryan too  :clap2:

Photos anyone?

BrutusTheBear

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 568
  • Karma: +59/-3
  • Certified socialist talking head of this world.
#8435 Re: significant repeats
April 08, 2019, 09:17:41 am

Sorry Duma, as evident from the complete lack of response, that's all pretty meaningless!

Edit: great work Alex. Good to hear a Debn bay doing the business!

 :2thumbsup:

Great work from Ryan too  :clap2:

Photos anyone?
A video of Alex doing the Fly on instaspam here.. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bvzdq2DBR1_/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Ditto, good to see the Debn bays crushing.  Them Dawson bays be from ere to!

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29236
  • Karma: +631/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#8436 Re: significant repeats
April 08, 2019, 09:32:40 am
Pasquill has done Bain de Sang (9a)

There's a blast from the past. Is it a forgotten route, or does it get done regularly?

Good effort.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4235
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#8437 Re: significant repeats
April 08, 2019, 09:38:48 am
Pasquill has done Bain de Sang (9a)

There's a blast from the past. Is it a forgotten route, or does it get done regularly?

Good effort.

Fairly regularly for a 9a. About once a year. http://escalade9.wifeo.com/bain-de-sang.php

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29236
  • Karma: +631/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#8438 Re: significant repeats
April 08, 2019, 01:31:06 pm
Merci. Worth reading that page in google translate for comedy value.

shurt

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • nincompoop
  • Posts: 721
  • Karma: +38/-1
#8439 Re: significant repeats
April 08, 2019, 02:30:53 pm
Dave Graham did it in 3 tries, that's good going...

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5763
  • Karma: +227/-4

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5763
  • Karma: +227/-4
#8442 Re: significant repeats
April 15, 2019, 09:31:39 pm
Don't remember her being noticeably short, does it make a big difference for KR?

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
#8443 Re: significant repeats
April 15, 2019, 10:09:44 pm
tbf I've got no idea, I just thought it was easier if you're taller. I'll get back under my bridge.

haydn jones

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1048
  • Karma: +95/-2
#8444 Re: significant repeats
April 15, 2019, 10:34:27 pm
Definitely not easier for tall! I feel quite bunch in the undercut, wish I was smaller for that move.

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1195
  • Karma: +65/-0
#8445 Re: significant repeats
April 16, 2019, 06:37:22 am
Frances is quite short but I agree with Haydn the crux move on Keen is definitely one of the few moves around that is harder for the taller person. Only took her a few sessions too  :strongbench:

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4235
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#8446 Re: significant repeats
April 16, 2019, 05:14:56 pm
Sébastian Bouin has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's linkup "Mamichula", 9b in Oliana.

http://fanatic-climbing.com/seconde-ascension-de-mamichula-9b-pour-seb-bouin-second-ascent-of-mamichula-9b-by-seb-bouin/

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5763
  • Karma: +227/-4
#8447 Re: significant repeats
April 16, 2019, 05:40:04 pm
Nice! So is he implying that his fa's are 9b, or Chilham Balam is 9a+?

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4235
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#8448 Re: significant repeats
April 16, 2019, 05:55:59 pm
Nice! So is he implying that his fa's are 9b, or Chilham Balam is 9a+?

Or both... But yeah, obviously if you're conservative in your grading because of the fear of downgrading you are going to give too low grades sometimes. Can't have it both ways...

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1682
  • Karma: +77/-2
#8449 Re: significant repeats
April 16, 2019, 05:56:20 pm
Its the kind of ambiguous comment he seems to make quite often. We are none the wiser. If he had something definite to say then it would have been clearer to spit it out!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal