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significant repeats (Read 4232022 times)

jwi

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#8350 Re: significant repeats
March 06, 2019, 05:45:30 pm
Sébastien Bouin has done the eight ascent of Pachamama in Oliana. Source: https://www.instagram.com/p/BuqhHiuh9fB/

Current top 10 in the 5.15 club:

Well the head honcho of the French downgrading mafia have just informed me that "La Novena Enmienda" is easier than 9a+, so seventh 5.15 for Seb, who slips down to 10th place, and yet one more route removed from the list

SA Chris

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#8351 Re: significant repeats
March 07, 2019, 08:36:20 am
Thanks Jens :)

jwi

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#8352 Re: significant repeats
March 07, 2019, 08:43:17 pm
Just shoot me now, before it's too late

monkey boy

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#8353 Re: significant repeats
March 10, 2019, 08:58:37 am
Varian repeated Transcendence at Back Bowden yesterday. Joining the Smith and Barker club.

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#8354 Re: significant repeats
March 10, 2019, 08:11:03 pm
Scant details but am I right in thinking this (Play Boy) is 8c+? If so a first for a UK woman (Lucy Mitchell)?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BuzaTttBzhC/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=u7gmvj839w0v

Duma

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#8355 Re: significant repeats
March 11, 2019, 08:49:28 am
Awesome news! I know nothing about the route, but it's on thecrag.com as 8c+

shurt

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#8356 Re: significant repeats
March 11, 2019, 09:36:28 am
Varian repeated Transcendence at Back Bowden yesterday. Joining the Smith and Barker club.

Paul B

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#8357 Re: significant repeats
March 11, 2019, 10:30:21 am
Scant details but am I right in thinking this (Play Boy) is 8c+? If so a first for a UK woman (Lucy Mitchell)?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BuzaTttBzhC/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=u7gmvj839w0v

Maybe not the best idea to broadcast it given the access arrangements. My Insta pick lasted about 5 mins before a local pointed that out (politely).

dunnyg

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#8358 Re: significant repeats
March 11, 2019, 11:09:02 am
Not all videos need music, but this does to cut out the creepy breathing.

abarro81

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#8359 Re: significant repeats
March 11, 2019, 12:13:40 pm
Scant details but am I right in thinking this (Play Boy) is 8c+? If so a first for a UK woman (Lucy Mitchell)?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BuzaTttBzhC/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=u7gmvj839w0v

Looking at her scorecard it looks like it was the 8a part not the 8c+

jwi

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#8360 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2019, 12:13:44 pm
Nico Pelorson has repeated Albert's sit start to Délire Onirique


Grimper calls this Pelorson's first indisputable 8C, which sounds quite harsh as he has already done The Big Island. (However Pelorson himself says that The Big Island is clearly a “phoney 8C”...) (Sorry for this excursion into the cutting edge of French grading theory)

Duma

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#8361 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2019, 12:46:26 pm
Excellent! Loving the "semi Albert" approach.

monkey boy

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#8362 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2019, 12:53:50 pm
This video makes you realise how good Charles is as he pisses this in comparison to Nico, and Nico is a beast on the crimp.

shark

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#8363 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2019, 01:59:58 pm
Excellent! Loving the "semi Albert" approach.

Where is Stallioni when you need him?

ferret

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#8364 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2019, 02:11:09 pm
This video makes you realise how good Charles is as he pisses this in comparison to Nico, and Nico is a beast on the crimp.
If you watch the video of Charles in comparison you can see he is not really stretched getting the crimp and then uses a big drop knee to do the move off it. Nico looks maxed on reach and uses a heelhook that looks very powerful to place and then difficult to weight properly as he can't sag his body at all.
All observed from my armchair but visually it looks to potentially account for some of the ease of Charles's ascent (still a beast obviously)

jwi

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#8365 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2019, 03:12:23 pm
yeah, he's only good at being tall

mrjonathanr

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#8366 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2019, 07:31:24 pm
Scant details but am I right in thinking this (Play Boy) is 8c+? If so a first for a UK woman (Lucy Mitchell)?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BuzaTttBzhC/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=u7gmvj839w0v

Looking at her scorecard it looks like it was the 8a part not the 8c+

Is that Lourmarin?

tomtom

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#8367 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2019, 08:50:35 pm
Excellent! Loving the "semi Albert" approach.

Where is Stallioni when you need him?

Nursing an infection caused by a penis piercing that only went half way through.

Danny

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#8368 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2019, 12:57:11 am
yeah, he's only good at being tall

Savage.

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Ged

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#8370 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2019, 09:25:18 am
Is that still banned or OK now? Went for a look there when at buoux a while ago. What a crag.

jwi

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#8371 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2019, 10:50:32 am
Is that still banned or OK now? Went for a look there when at buoux a while ago. What a crag.

Climbing at Lourmarin has been banned since 1999 and is still banned. Purportedly for "bird protection". Climbing there, you risk a heavy fine.

OTOH Playboy Rode sans Complexe was put up in 2015. Etc.

Ged

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#8372 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2019, 11:33:09 am
Still, probably best not to shout about it on Instagram though!

Such a shame it's banned. After a week of getting spanked at buoux we were drooling at the sight of steep climbing with decent holds

Will Hunt

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#8373 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2019, 11:40:08 am
Still, probably best not to shout about it on Instagram though!

Isn't that why people go climbing nowadays?

shark

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#8374 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2019, 12:28:58 pm
#becauseitsthere

 

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