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significant repeats (Read 4235253 times)

jwi

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#8275 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 08:34:46 pm
Hannes Puman is a monster.

jwi

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#8276 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2018, 08:58:28 am
Jakob Schubert has done the first repeat of Chris Sharma's El Bon Combat at Cova del Ocell, for which Schubert suggest 9a+

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bq3FxZ5BTWD/

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#8277 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2018, 09:27:12 am
Hope there is a better video, looks really good. That’s a big downgrade too, don’t see that much with Sharma routes.

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#8278 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2018, 09:57:31 am
Not that big, in his post he says the original grade was 9b/+ and he suggests hard 9a+.

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#8279 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2018, 10:11:19 am
Perspective innit. Maybe it's 9b....

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#8280 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2018, 12:11:01 pm
Hes said change change his post to 9a+/b although thats likely due to responses

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#8281 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2018, 12:38:33 pm
possible that the route suits someone used to comp style boulder problems?

not Sharma's strong point

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#8282 Re: significant repeats
December 02, 2018, 05:37:02 pm
Molly Thompson-Smith has done La Fabelita (8c). (Source: Instagram).  Don’t know how much time she’s spent on it before but seems to have been over a quick visit this year. More to come?

Wood FT

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#8283 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2018, 07:24:06 am
Molly Thompson-Smith has done La Fabelita (8c). (Source: Instagram).  Don’t know how much time she’s spent on it before but seems to have been over a quick visit this year. More to come?

 :popcorn:

jamesturnbull97

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#8284 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2018, 12:58:37 pm
Anna Liina Laitinen did Lucifier 8c+ yesterday after the conditions finally got good again. Also localish Lad Eric Libbe sent it yesterday too.

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#8286 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2018, 01:33:04 am
https://bleau.info/cuvier/303762.html

 :jaw:

Note sensitive sit start beta. Wonder how long that will last - I mean, no pad, not the undercut.

Some seriously good stuff going down at the moment.  :clap2:

Nibile

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#8287 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2018, 08:51:58 am
How hard must the sit be to bump the grade up by a number?
I'd say 8c?

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#8288 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2018, 10:48:16 am
A one move 8C...?

monkey boy

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#8289 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2018, 11:13:26 am
Well technically it's two moves as I imagine he had to match the crimp. I'd imagine it would be 8B+/C in order to bump it to that grade. Those moves are unfathomable in my mind.

jwi

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#8291 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2018, 10:58:06 am
OT, but I like the way in the featured video Andy Earl comfortably takes the starting holds and THEN steps on to the cheat stone.

DAVETHOMAS90

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#8292 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2018, 04:06:59 pm
OT, but I like the way in the featured video Andy Earl comfortably takes the starting holds and THEN steps on to the cheat stone.

Ha ha, very good  :clap2: I hadn't clocked that. What sort of dab is that?

My search came up with a vid of this old sausage  ;)




Still relevant to look at cheat/pad stacks.

jwi

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#8293 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2018, 03:56:15 pm
Stefano Ghisolfi has done the 1st repeat of Perfecto Mundo, becoming the 4th human to climb 9b+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrF3P7uHccg/

(And Grimper magazine has just declared 9a+ to be unremarkable)

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#8294 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2018, 04:13:38 pm
I don't doubt that he's done this. However, given that he's claiming an 8C+, presumably climbed by doing a massive move off precisely fuck all, why is nobody giving him shit for not producing a video? I want to be brought to tears by seeing this utterly hideous pair of moves in 4K ULTRA HD WIDESCREEN.

Especially given that you're not allowed to start off a pad it would have been useful to benchmark how high the ground is so that once a few inches of erosion have happened in the future we'll know where your arse needs to be to repeat it.

jwi

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#8295 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2018, 04:39:55 pm
I don't doubt that he's done this. However, given that he's claiming an 8C+, presumably climbed by doing a massive move off precisely fuck all, why is nobody giving him shit for not producing a video?

Grimper is kind-of giving him a slight censure
Quote from: Lucien M
Comme à son habitude, Charles a probablement une vidéo de l'ascension mais il préfère cultiver le mystère en ne divulguant qu'une misérable photo du bloc nu. Ne nous méprenons pas, comme toutes celles signées Charles Albert, cette ascension doit être prise très au sérieux ; sa crédibilité n'est plus à démontrer.
« Last Edit: December 07, 2018, 04:46:22 pm by jwi »

36chambers

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#8296 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2018, 04:48:16 pm
Grimper is kind-of giving him a slight censure
Quote from: Lucien M
Comme à son habitude, Charles a probablement une vidéo de l'ascension mais il préfère cultiver le mystère en ne divulguant qu'une misérable photo du bloc nu. Ne nous méprenons pas, comme toutes celles signées Charles Albert, cette ascension doit être prise très au sérieux ; sa crédibilité n'est plus à démontrer.

Quote from: Google translate
As usual, Charles probably has a video of the climb but he prefers to cultivate the mystery by only revealing a miserable photo of the nude block. Do not misunderstand, like all those signed Charles Albert, this climb must be taken very seriously; its credibility is well established.

:)

jwi

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#8297 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2018, 04:56:40 pm
Yeah machine translation has gotten so good I can no longer be bothered to translate. Only five small errors (and a very French sentence structure in the second paragraph, that the machine couldn't really handle).

As usual, Charles probably has a video of the climb but he prefers to cultivate the mystery by only revealing a miserable photo of the nude block bare boulder. Do not misunderstand [us], like all those signed done by Charles Albert, this climb ascent must be taken very seriously; its his credibility is well established.

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#8298 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2018, 05:11:53 pm
Cheers for that. Although it's a shame "nude block" isn't the correct translation.

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#8299 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2018, 06:30:28 pm
Sick hard obviously but doesn’t look like a classic line.

 

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