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significant repeats (Read 4304835 times)

Nibile

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#8250 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2018, 08:54:56 am
Frances Bensley has done Fat Lip 8B.
Brilliant. You gotta love the blue jumper action. Stealth as hell: young girl gets to the crag casually dressed; climbs fist female 8b in the country; goes away leaving people behind crying.
Perfect.

petekitso

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#8251 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2018, 02:16:11 pm
Yes on the knitwear.

Next time I am falling off a 7A and  chastising myself for wearing too heavy a t-shirt I will think of that cable knit fisherman's jumper and try harder . . .

monkoffunk

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#8252 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2018, 03:46:00 pm
Little bit more Off the Wagon.


https://www.instagram.com/p/BqxIuxaBg83/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=v7q2wv6a5jmt

Such an awesome problem to watch.

36chambers

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#8253 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2018, 03:46:39 pm
edit: what monk said :)

I found it very satisfying how well the background music matched the climbing



Bradders

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#8254 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2018, 04:34:57 pm
I found it very satisfying how well the background music matched the climbing

Urgh I thought he was cool until that vid demonstrated he's the sort of cu..limber who likes to play shit auto tuned music at the crag  :wank:

And then he mentions access issues!! ::)

Incredible problem though. Unreal to find climbing like that on real rock.

36chambers

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#8255 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2018, 05:03:25 pm
At least they chose one of the better songs off Astroworld.

It is a sweet looking problem, I think I've got some inspiration for my next board problem now.

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#8256 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2018, 05:17:27 pm
That’s some seriously shit tune. I don’t get the music at the crag thing. Was at nesscliffe a few weeks ago and some climbers were pumping out tunes under cones and currents. Nice

monkoffunk

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#8257 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2018, 05:48:44 pm
To be fair the access issues he mentions don’t sound much like music would be a factor. I think it depends on if anyone else at all is at the crag.

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#8258 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2018, 06:31:15 pm
I don’t get the music at the crag thing.

Me neither. I had it on good authority that some cretinous twunts we're playing tunes at the Torridon boulders a week or so back. The Glen of tranquility no more.

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#8259 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2018, 07:22:02 pm
That might have been me, I didn't have a bluetooth speaker so I cranked the car stereo to max and left the Audi's windows open, I reckon you could hear the gabber in Gairloch  ;D

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#8260 Re: significant repeats
November 29, 2018, 09:28:21 pm
Jeez fiend, have some respect tsk. Someone might start a #campaign

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#8261 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 11:14:07 am
Frances Bensley has done Fat Lip 8B.
Brilliant. You gotta love the blue jumper action.
Perfect.

Yes this is great though it disproves something I've been peddling for years and marks the death of one of my anecdotes:

A while ago in the peak I happened upon this young gun with an extensive entourage failing repeatedly on an 8b. Having duly failed at my own travails because it was a bit warm I engaged with one of his pad carriers and watched for a while before giving some advice:

'I know what your problem is; I've never seen anyone climb Font 8b in a jumper before.'

Their collective reaction was of the who be ye? type so with the mood soured and the young man completely psyched out I left them to it.

I feel fine about it because I was being good natured and have subsequently discovered he suffers from a complete and total charisma and sense of humour bypass.


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#8262 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 11:33:05 am

Urgh I thought he was cool until that vid demonstrated he's the sort of cu..limber who likes to play shit auto tuned music at the crag  :wank:


I consider this simple test an excellent way to identify the utter twats in the community.

andy_e

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#8263 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 11:42:24 am
There was someone soloing around on Low Man at Almscliff with his phone on the floor blurting out some godawful indie facsimile. The temptation to turn the noise off and throw his phone into the puddle on top of the wall boulder was great, but I resisted.

dunnyg

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#8264 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 11:53:53 am
Just 'accidentally' kick it into the nearest cow shit.

nai

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#8265 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 11:57:09 am
marks the death of one of my anecdotes:

'I know what your problem is; I've never seen anyone climb Font 8b in a jumper before.'
 
Their collective reaction was of the who be ye?

Maybe they were just amazed that you've not seen Stick It?

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#8266 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 12:10:29 pm
Ben’s dreads must have been the equivalent of about 4 woolly jumpers back in the day (must have been said before)

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#8267 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 12:51:14 pm
I'd like to have see him shorn and an enormous wooly jumper spun from the dreads. This could have been kept at the Works, and anyone wishing to repeat something he did with dreads would have to collect it and wear it during their attempts.

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#8268 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 01:31:01 pm
marks the death of one of my anecdotes:

'I know what your problem is; I've never seen anyone climb Font 8b in a jumper before.'
 
Their collective reaction was of the who be ye?

Maybe they were just amazed that you've not seen Stick It?

Not another one!

Why does literally everyone on the internet think that everything on the internet is literal?

He hasn't literally had a sense of charisma bypass; it just appears that way. Nor, etzzzzz....

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#8269 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 01:33:18 pm
Hubble should immediately be upgraded to 9b for a dreaded ascent. Yet again proving to all would be ascentionists they are as weak as piss

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#8270 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 02:08:03 pm
Music at the crag. Mostly I have no time for it, but I do like it for lamp sessions in non-urban fringe locations. And I especially like it for solo lamp sessions. Well not so much music at the crag in the latter case, but podcasts. Maybe I'm a hypocrite but there you go.

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#8271 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 02:25:42 pm

... I was being good natured

This is where your story loses any credibility!

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#8272 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 04:42:06 pm
Just returned from a winter climbing training sesh at our Crafnant drytooling crag; it's a dank, dark, damp hole in the ground and the routes require being in a determined right head-space.. Having uplifting music playing in the background is almost essential to keep up morale and psych! Nobody except me and 4 friends ever visit so it doesn't feel wrong blasting out tunes there. Time and a place.

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#8273 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 05:24:28 pm
Matilda Söderlund has done Pure imagination (8c+) in RRG. https://www.instagram.com/p/BqzwaWFHqoN/

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#8274 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2018, 06:05:52 pm
Matilda Söderlund has done Pure imagination (8c+) in RRG. https://www.instagram.com/p/BqzwaWFHqoN/

Very impressive battling through the conditios we've been having this week and with some of the horrendous splits she just climbed on with regardless. Certainly seemed chuffed when we saw them yesterday afternoon.

It's also been mind boggling to see one of her friends Hannes go on an absolute rampage doing pretty much every hard route in the Red in extra quick time. For example, the whole madness cave flash or onsight, Gold coast in a day and he reckoned the Golden Ticket was only 8b+!! To strong for his own good.
https://www.8a.nu/forum/news/hannes-puman-47937
https://www.instagram.com/hannespuman/

 

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