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significant repeats (Read 4341369 times)

monkey boy

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#8050 Re: significant repeats
September 12, 2018, 01:21:40 pm
Mina just climbed Nordic Plumber (8c) in Flatanger Cave.

HaeMeS

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#8051 Re: significant repeats
September 12, 2018, 03:03:14 pm
Nice! Money well spent on the return ticket.

monkey boy

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#8052 Re: significant repeats
September 12, 2018, 05:35:08 pm
Nice! Money well spent on the return ticket.

Haha yeah definitely!

mark20

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#8053 Re: significant repeats
September 14, 2018, 08:41:50 am
Alex Moore and Tim Blake have done The Dark Side at Bowden, ground up above pads style - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=295

James Malloch

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#8054 Re: significant repeats
September 14, 2018, 10:31:19 am
Taken from the other channel:

"Seems like Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet are crushing it around the UK at the moment with repeats of The Big Issue [E9 6c], Chupacabra [E8 6c], Point Blank [E8 6c], Muy Caliente [E10 6c], The Quarryman [E8 7a], Rhapsody [E11 7a] and Reqiuem [E8 6b] according to Planet Mountain. A ridiculous ticklist and word on the grapevine is that they are heading to the Peak.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/extreme-trad-climbing-in-scotland-gerome-pouvreau-and-florence-pinet-repeat-rhapsody-and-requiem.html "

galpinos

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#8055 Re: significant repeats
September 14, 2018, 10:39:56 am
Taken from the other channel:

"Seems like Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet are crushing it around the UK at the moment with repeats of The Big Issue [E9 6c], Chupacabra [E8 6c], Point Blank [E8 6c], Muy Caliente [E10 6c], The Quarryman [E8 7a], Rhapsody [E11 7a] and Reqiuem [E8 6b] according to Planet Mountain. A ridiculous ticklist and word on the grapevine is that they are heading to the Peak.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/extreme-trad-climbing-in-scotland-gerome-pouvreau-and-florence-pinet-repeat-rhapsody-and-requiem.html "

I think you are a week out of date. JWI posted this last week:

Gerome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody, Muy caliente, El Chupacabra and The big issue. Florence Pinet has repeated El Chupacabra and The big issue. Both also did the Quarryman.

Source: Fanatic Climbing, gerome-pouvreau.blogspot.com and pinetflorence.blogspot.com


James Malloch

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#8056 Re: significant repeats
September 14, 2018, 10:42:58 am
Taken from the other channel:

"Seems like Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet are crushing it around the UK at the moment with repeats of The Big Issue [E9 6c], Chupacabra [E8 6c], Point Blank [E8 6c], Muy Caliente [E10 6c], The Quarryman [E8 7a], Rhapsody [E11 7a] and Reqiuem [E8 6b] according to Planet Mountain. A ridiculous ticklist and word on the grapevine is that they are heading to the Peak.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/extreme-trad-climbing-in-scotland-gerome-pouvreau-and-florence-pinet-repeat-rhapsody-and-requiem.html "

I think you are a week out of date. JWI posted this last week:

Gerome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody, Muy caliente, El Chupacabra and The big issue. Florence Pinet has repeated El Chupacabra and The big issue. Both also did the Quarryman.

Source: Fanatic Climbing, gerome-pouvreau.blogspot.com and pinetflorence.blogspot.com


Doh... I remember reading the comments on it now, looking back. My excuse is it's been a long week....

Duma

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#8057 Re: significant repeats
September 19, 2018, 09:42:19 am
Assume most on here have already seen, but in case not - monkey boy did Mortal Immortal the other day :
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn4HYVqDr0c/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=19n37txnvdxxp

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#8058 Re: significant repeats
September 19, 2018, 11:07:38 am
Monkey who??

Good effort sounds a hardcore seige.

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#8059 Re: significant repeats
September 19, 2018, 08:46:04 pm
Proper grit and determination in the face of awful conditions - floodgates was soaked with condensation that morning and returning at lunchtime I sacked off even trying to pull on as it was way greasy...
A real lesson in how to execute without being distracted by pishy UK conditions - many many congratulations.

teestub

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#8060 Re: significant repeats
September 19, 2018, 09:46:57 pm
Interesting that David topped out too! 3 ascents of a new 8b+ in as many weeks!

monkey boy

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#8061 Re: significant repeats
September 20, 2018, 08:10:52 am
Proper grit and determination in the face of awful conditions - floodgates was soaked with condensation that morning and returning at lunchtime I sacked off even trying to pull on as it was way greasy...
A real lesson in how to execute without being distracted by pishy UK conditions - many many congratulations.

Thanks. I knew it had been condensed the day before but just went to try the top for another day as I was so bored of feeling ok and still falling there! Trusty crag fans and towels helped get the bottom into a climbable state. I think the fact conditions were so awful reduced any expectations and so I was more relaxed.

Interesting that David topped out too! 3 ascents of a new 8b+ in as many weeks!

I think that just happens to be because Dawid has been working it on and off since 2015. I have put 2 months worth of effort in and Barrows is just good. It had always been my intention to top out before Dawid did the first ascent as everyone loves standing on top and above pads it makes sense, be a bit of a faff on a rope.
« Last Edit: September 20, 2018, 08:18:03 am by monkey boy »

monkey boy

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#8062 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2018, 08:23:05 am


Flail and send footage

tomtom

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#8063 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2018, 08:51:12 am
Nice Dave 👍👍👍

Glad you didn’t edit out the hug :)

monkey boy

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#8064 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2018, 08:52:38 am
Haha! A fitting ending I thought

T_B

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#8065 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2018, 09:22:46 am
That was ace - love the 'jug' match on the send go. Brutal!

monkey boy

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#8066 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2018, 09:36:45 am
Thanks Tom. That was on the fly as when doing that part from the hole the right stayed on. Haha

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#8067 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2018, 10:18:06 am
Brilliant Dave. Good work for topping out too. That appeals to my old school sensibilities.

monkey boy

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#8068 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2018, 10:18:57 am
Thanks. Isn't getting to the top the whole point of climbing  :lol:

Nibile

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#8069 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2018, 01:46:41 pm
Dave, did you leave the ladder placed there on purpose, for the good attempt? Or was it casual?
Was it in the same place on other attempts?

monkey boy

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#8070 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2018, 02:18:14 pm
I did leave the ladder there on purpose. I was always put the ladder there when I was there on my own but not when others were there. Not sure why I did this time, guess I didn't want Mina to have to carry it over there  ;)

Nibile

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#8071 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2018, 02:41:13 pm
Interesting.
For the purely mental aspect, I think that placing the ladder there, could have given you the mental edge you needed, maybe without even noticing it.
I think that the thought that Mina would have had to carry the ladder over, reinforced your idea of succeeding, because it involved another person, and the presence of others always make things more real and tangible.
It's happened to me as well, many times, alas not on 8b+ though.

What do you think?

monkey boy

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#8072 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2018, 02:54:32 pm
Yeah Mina mentioned that to me too. She said my whole demeanour was positive and she though I'd do it. I think I had been like that on a lot of other sessions but maybe because conditions were so bad I had no expectations and I was more relaxed. I knew I could do it but I was only going to have one go that day so I was fairly relaxed about it. I took my time, prepped the climb and then tried hard. It seemed to work well, although I nearly powered out topping it out, hence me getting intimate with the foliage  :lol:

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#8073 Re: significant repeats
September 21, 2018, 03:06:17 pm
Great stuff!

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#8074 Re: significant repeats
September 22, 2018, 02:00:54 pm
That's a lovely video, and plenty of funny bits too.

I reckon that's a dab on the white van @ 4.51 though  :P

A great diary of the back end of summer too!

Well done.

 

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