[Clart]

Seems to be up there at a world standard unless it's only 8c.

I can vouch for it being 8c+. I've been trying it for 4 years and its way harder than any 8c I've done or been on including The Extension, Bat Route, Cry Freedom and True North. The left hand crimp on the last move is significantly worse than in the the 90's as Malc and Jerry used to take this then get the last crimp for the RH. Now this hold has crumbled, this old sequence is no longer possible as there is only a shitty scar left behind so you're basically on your RH only and have to do a big move to cross over to this hold from an undercut/ sidepull. Jerry's old method pre-break looked hard (as in the famous DMM poster of him grimacing) but perhaps not as hard as it is now on this bit.

Perhaps the sheer talent of the repeaters of the 90's and a bit of sandbagging may have contributed to the downgrade from Jerry's 8c+ grade. I think it is safe to say we are now living in a world where an element of grade inflation has occurred since those days. Basically, if Evo is 8c there will have to be a lot of downgrades! 

Anyway, an outstanding effort from Will! 

Can anyone tell me the name of the video with Jerry climbing Evolution? Used to have it on VHS. Did it get uploaded onto youtube like the Real Thing?

[Doylo]

Seems to be up there at a world standard unless it's only 8c.

I can vouch for it being 8c+. I've been trying it for 4 years and its way harder than any 8c I've done or been on including The Extension, Bat Route, Cry Freedom and True North. The left hand crimp on the last move is significantly worse than in the the 90's as Malc and Jerry used to take this then get the last crimp for the RH. Now this hold has crumbled, this old sequence is no longer possible as there is only a shitty scar left behind so you're basically on your RH only and have to do a big move to cross over to this hold from an undercut/ sidepull. Jerry's old method pre-break looked hard (as in the famous DMM poster of him grimacing) but perhaps not as hard as it is now on this bit.

Perhaps the sheer talent of the repeaters of the 90's and a bit of sandbagging may have contributed to the downgrade from Jerry's 8c+ grade. I think it is safe to say we are now living in a world where an element of grade inflation has occurred since those days. Basically, if Evo is 8c there will have to be a lot of downgrades! 

Anyway, an outstanding effort from Will! 

Can anyone tell me the name of the video with Jerry climbing Evolution? Used to have it on VHS. Did it get uploaded onto youtube like the Real Thing?

Didn't know there was one.

[Clart]

Seems to be up there at a world standard unless it's only 8c.

I can vouch for it being 8c+. I've been trying it for 4 years and its way harder than any 8c I've done or been on including The Extension, Bat Route, Cry Freedom and True North. The left hand crimp on the last move is significantly worse than in the the 90's as Malc and Jerry used to take this then get the last crimp for the RH. Now this hold has crumbled, this old sequence is no longer possible as there is only a shitty scar left behind so you're basically on your RH only and have to do a big move to cross over to this hold from an undercut/ sidepull. Jerry's old method pre-break looked hard (as in the famous DMM poster of him grimacing) but perhaps not as hard as it is now on this bit.

Perhaps the sheer talent of the repeaters of the 90's and a bit of sandbagging may have contributed to the downgrade from Jerry's 8c+ grade. I think it is safe to say we are now living in a world where an element of grade inflation has occurred since those days. Basically, if Evo is 8c there will have to be a lot of downgrades! 

Anyway, an outstanding effort from Will! 

Can anyone tell me the name of the video with Jerry climbing Evolution? Used to have it on VHS. Did it get uploaded onto youtube like the Real Thing?

Didn't know there was one.

Maybe I imagined it. Could be getting confused with old copies of OTT and that old peak lime video.

[Kingy]

Seems to be up there at a world standard unless it's only 8c.

I can vouch for it being 8c+. I've been trying it for 4 years and its way harder than any 8c I've done or been on including The Extension, Bat Route, Cry Freedom and True North. The left hand crimp on the last move is significantly worse than in the the 90's as Malc and Jerry used to take this then get the last crimp for the RH. Now this hold has crumbled, this old sequence is no longer possible as there is only a shitty scar left behind so you're basically on your RH only and have to do a big move to cross over to this hold from an undercut/ sidepull. Jerry's old method pre-break looked hard (as in the famous DMM poster of him grimacing) but perhaps not as hard as it is now on this bit.

Perhaps the sheer talent of the repeaters of the 90's and a bit of sandbagging may have contributed to the downgrade from Jerry's 8c+ grade. I think it is safe to say we are now living in a world where an element of grade inflation has occurred since those days. Basically, if Evo is 8c there will have to be a lot of downgrades! 

Anyway, an outstanding effort from Will! 

Can anyone tell me the name of the video with Jerry climbing Evolution? Used to have it on VHS. Did it get uploaded onto youtube like the Real Thing?

Didn't know there was one.

There isn't a video of Jerry climbing Evo. There is one of Ben falling off the last move here

[nai]

And a great one of Ru doing the same:

[Kingy]

Jordan has done Batshadow 8c+ at Malham. This links Bat Route into the top of Overshadow via a R to L traverse 

[Tommy]

Good work Jordan!! 

[monkey boy]

Megos did Monkey Wedding in half an hour after having one session on it 3 years ago!

[jwi]

Pieds nus?

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

[Duma]

Yeah, old hat with rubber these days

[Muenchener]

I kneepads are borderline unethical, then surely hats with rubber shouldn't be accepted without discussion either?

[Duma]

 

[cofe]

Ned's done Amandla.

https://instagram.com/p/BWnWjOwAPL8/

[Nibile]

Outstanding. What a beast.
 

[BID]

Puccio seems to be just pottering up 8B nowadays, it seems to be her "in a day" grade. Mad.

[WillRobertson]

https://instagram.com/p/BW51XJBBcvp/

Wow.

[Duma]

Fucking hell.

What other 8B+ flashes have there been?

[haydn jones]

Ondra on  jade

[Doylo]

Entlinge, Daniel Woods.

[Nibile]

Amazing.
 

[dave]

Jesus H, the boy done good.

[Drew]

Saw on FB that Will Bosi has done the 4th ascent of The Prow at Kyloe.

[Andy W]

Saw on FB that Will Bosi has done the 4th ascent of The Prow at Kyloe.

Impressive yes, but significant? If the UKC report is correct, then Earl did it with no pads, presumably after top roping, Dan Varian and Ned Feehally did it ground up after cleaning and Bosi does it after top roping with lots of pads. It would be significant if he had improved on style, but he didn't. Anyhow I just burnt my steak so felt the need to moan 

[Fiend]

I agree with the principle that not improving on Ned's / Dan's style is arguably not significant. However I wouldn't trust the UKC news article, the definitive guide shows Andy Earl climbing it above at least 5 medium/large pads with possibly more out of shot (unless it's a repeat ascent for the camera).

[ian dunn]

Laura Rogora on Biographie 8c+ found the start with broken holds very hard as she is only 1m51 also she is only 16 too! Has worked all the moves on Realization too.