[tomtom]

h7 since I didn't onsight it.

Video evidence of you not onsighting it?

Youtube is full of videos not of me onsighting it.

I searched YouTubby for "Dave not onsighting point blank" and none of you came up....

[El Mocho]

h7 since I didn't onsight it.

Video evidence of you not onsighting it?

Youtube is full of videos not of me onsighting it.

I searched YouTubby for "Dave not onsighting point blank" and none of you came up....

What I want to see is a video of Megos not onsighting Paint it Blank then we can decide once and for all who is King of the Peakbroke

[andy_e]

I don't think we can trust Megos's word without a video given his track record of not not onsighting stuff.

[Wood FT]

Peter Dawson has made the third ascent of Brian, Ken Palmer's 8c+ at Ansteys Cove.

"Awesome route, all the hardest climbing on the wall. The route is very technical with a 7C+ boulder to start then a drop down move of about 7B+ followed by the finish of Tuppence. First go this year, last year was shut down on it."

Source: 8a.nu logbook

Nice one Pete!

[standard]

pissed it

[Ethan]

Watched Will Bosi do Evolution this morning on his second go! 

[Doylo]

Thought he'd been trying Mutation?

[haydn jones]

Fucking hell that's quicker than megos!

[Tommy]

Watched Will Bosi do Evolution this morning on his second go! 

Think it was 3rd go actually. Nice effort considering it's not exactly cold at the moment.

[IanP]

Babsi Zangerl has now done Big Issue and Muy Caliente (now considered E9 I think). 

https://www.instagram.com/barbarazangerl/?hl=en

Pretty impressive trip (to say the least!) and sounds like she's enjoying Pembroke.

[cowboyhat]

Watched Will Bosi do Evolution this morning on his second go! 

Good effort. Doesn't get many ascents really does it, considering its location and a lot of people trying.

Before Megos only Mclure and Pasquill in the last 15 or more years...?

[gme]

Best uk sportsclimbing ascent for the last decade other than steves 9b.
Seems to be up there at a world standard unless it's only 8c. He really does seem to be the real deal.

[Kingy]

Seems to be up there at a world standard unless it's only 8c.

I can vouch for it being 8c+. I've been trying it for 4 years and its way harder than any 8c I've done or been on including The Extension, Bat Route, Cry Freedom and True North. The left hand crimp on the last move is significantly worse than in the the 90's as Malc and Jerry used to take this then get the last crimp for the RH. Now this hold has crumbled, this old sequence is no longer possible as there is only a shitty scar left behind so you're basically on your RH only and have to do a big move to cross over to this hold from an undercut/ sidepull. Jerry's old method pre-break looked hard (as in the famous DMM poster of him grimacing) but perhaps not as hard as it is now on this bit.

Perhaps the sheer talent of the repeaters of the 90's and a bit of sandbagging may have contributed to the downgrade from Jerry's 8c+ grade. I think it is safe to say we are now living in a world where an element of grade inflation has occurred since those days. Basically, if Evo is 8c there will have to be a lot of downgrades! 

Anyway, an outstanding effort from Will! 

[abarro81]

Easily 8c+, it's nails!

[cowboyhat]

Good insight Ted, I didn't know it had got harder.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Seems to be up there at a world standard unless it's only 8c.

Basically, if Evo is 8c there will have to be a lot of downgrades! 

Ken Palmer would contend that he's not climbed anything harder than 8b      Regardless, great efforts from those concerned. Good post from Ted.

[Kingy]

Yes I understand the left crimp on the last move has broken a few times, the last time in around 2009/ 2010 I believe as Ryan used to do it Jerry's way, now he has to do it the crossover way, (see the footage of him falling off this move when he is trying Roofolution in Personal Limits). I think the entire left crimp came off and then Steve repeated it without any left hand hold at all! But what is left of the hold (not much) is now back on. I estimate the last move is around v7 in its current state

[r-man]

8B+ for Eliot Stephens. First 8B+ done by a South Wales boulderer, so I'm told.

https://instagram.com/p/BWK1di4Hu2l/

[gme]

Yes I understand the left crimp on the last move has broken a few times, the last time in around 2009/ 2010 I believe as Ryan used to do it Jerry's way, now he has to do it the crossover way, (see the footage of him falling off this move when he is trying Roofolution in Personal Limits). I think the entire left crimp came off and then Steve repeated it without any left hand hold at all! But what is left of the hold (not much) is now back on. I estimate the last move is around v7 in its current state

Does/will this change effect mutation? I presume when steve did the 1st ascent of mutation it was prior to any break when the route was grade 8c. Also has he climbed mutation again since the break.

[standard]

8B+ for Eliot Stephens. First 8B+ done by a South Wales boulderer, so I'm told.

https://instagram.com/p/BWK1di4Hu2l/

Not first 8B+ by a welshman?

[cowboyhat]

Danny Cattel must have bouldered 8b+.

And IIRC Dyer has done the cave link-ups...?


what say you Doyle?

[Kingy]

Does/will this change effect mutation?

No the broken hold is not used on Mutation, which breaks right out of Evo before the last move. On Mutation, the right hand hold on the last move of Evo is instead taken with the left hand to set up for the famous gaston move.

[Doylo]

 

Danny Cattel must have bouldered 8b+.

And IIRC Dyer has done the cave link-ups...?


what say you Doyle?

First 8B+ by a Welshman I'd say. Danny probably has in the Den but that doesn't count. 
Silk Cut gets 8B now but must be close .

[Duma]

https://www.instagram.com/p/BV4fK6KlBPT/?taken-by=nalle_hukkataival&hl=en

Not a repeat but potentially significant...

Contender for the hardest in Rocklands? So at least 8C in other words - and what looks to be a beautiful line as well. It should probably have a thread of its own.

Wandered under this the other day, it is both gobsmacking, and not what I'd call a boulder problem, probably E12 on grit [emoji6]

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[andy popp]

Another (FB) picture: https://www.facebook.com/blackdiamondequipment/photos/pcb.10155340210351605/10155340209636605/?type=3&theater