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significant repeats (Read 4377835 times)

Wood FT

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#7250 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2016, 09:57:26 am
Everpsyched. December evening on those crimps, yowwwww

cheque

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#7251 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2016, 10:10:26 am
8) Given that he was looking for partners for Monday I assumed it hadn't gone down yet but I obviously made the foolish mistake of underestimating his psyche.

In a less relevant point, no-one seems to pronounce (or in many cases, spell) the name of this route correctly. The first vowel is the long one.

haydn jones

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#7252 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2016, 01:06:40 pm
Still looking for a partner on tuesday too

Doylo

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#7253 Re: significant repeats
December 18, 2016, 03:57:08 pm
Nice one Haydn

Murd

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#7254 Re: significant repeats
December 19, 2016, 04:36:04 pm
Will Smith has joined the 9a club by climbing Era Vella today

 :clap2:
Well done Will, brilliant. chuffed for ya :punk:
Dan

shark

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#7255 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2016, 11:53:38 am
Haydn climbed Kabaah yesterday in what must be the latest ascent in the year of this route yet. Very impressive to watch, a very smooth ascent! 

Keith Sharples (no stranger to the Tor) quizzes Haydn about Kaabah and Mecca:

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/hadyn-jones-keeps-his-psyche-and-gets-kaabah.html

Low res vid of of redpoint here:



Nibile

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#7256 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2016, 03:02:01 pm
A few days ago Manolo did the first repeat of his own route Il Mattino dei Maghi, that he opened in Totoga in 1981 at 7c+...
Mindblowing.
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/manolo-climbing-and-il-mattino-dei-maghi-first-repeat-in-35-years.html

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#7257 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2016, 03:23:47 pm
Great photo from 1981! How old is Manalo now?

nai

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#7258 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2016, 03:48:00 pm
Great photo from 1981! How old is Manalo now?
Quote from: opening sentence of that article
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.

 :shrug:
« Last Edit: December 24, 2016, 04:06:35 pm by nai »

shurt

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#7259 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2016, 04:12:23 pm
A few days ago Manolo did the first repeat of his own route Il Mattino dei Maghi, that he opened in Totoga in 1981 at 7c+...
Mindblowing.
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/manolo-climbing-and-il-mattino-dei-maghi-first-repeat-in-35-years.html

Great story, I'd never heard of this route..

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#7260 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2016, 05:48:21 pm
Great photo from 1981! How old is Manalo now?
Quote from: opening sentence of that article
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.

 :shrug:
:wall:

Andy P

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#7261 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2016, 11:22:02 pm
Nice little video that and well done Haydn. Took me back 30yrs to when Rooster Booster, Prow, Chimes, Boot Boys & The Whore were 'cutting edge' routes. Brill to see the gaps getting filled nowadays. Long Hale The Tor!
Oh, and Merry Christmas.
AP. xx

roddersm

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#7262 Re: significant repeats
January 02, 2017, 12:24:29 pm
Not sure if its been reported already but Lucy Mitchell has repeated Fish eye.

Luke Owens

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#7263 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2017, 09:55:34 am
Haydn full-crimped his way up Hajj yesterday. Effort!

haydn jones

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#7264 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2017, 11:15:19 am
Not quite sure 8c constitutes as significant  haha! But I'll  take it and run though!

Luke Owens

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#7265 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2017, 11:17:22 am
Not quite sure 8c constitutes as significant  haha! But I'll  take it and run though!

I think given the route, it's significant, I'm more impressed by the fact you're sport climbing in the UK in January...

haydn jones

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#7266 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2017, 11:23:16 am
Not withoyt consequences. So cold my skin is brittle and split again yesterday. Oh well another week off the lime now i guess :(

dave

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#7267 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2017, 11:33:13 am
Maybe a 2017 project for Haydn would be to make an ascent of Mecca every month this year, eating/drinking a seasonal themed item in the kneebar each time (with photo).

Suggestions:

Jan - leftover turkey
Feb - pancakes
Mar - welshcakes
Apr - easter egg
May - new potatoes
Jun - icecream (ideally a 99 cone)
Jul - strawberries & cream
Aug - bilberry tart
Sep - blackberry & apple pie
Oct - tankard of german beer
Nov - bonfire toffee
Dec - xmas cake

haydn jones

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#7268 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2017, 11:54:50 am
I'm  game if conditions hold out for an entire year. Seems rather optomistic though haha!

Luke Owens

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#7269 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2017, 11:58:42 am
Not withoyt consequences. So cold my skin is brittle and split again yesterday. Oh well another week off the lime now i guess :(

Should give you chance to work on your "chisel" grip ;)

abarro81

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#7270 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2017, 02:43:29 pm
Nice one Haydn, good Christmas season!

haydn jones

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#7271 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2017, 10:15:17 pm
If pete keeps on going like he is at the moment we are gonna need to start a new thread just for him. The other day he flashed 2 8b's and did an 8c in the same day. Also managed 2 8c+s the guys on fire

bendavison

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#7272 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2017, 10:25:55 pm
C'mon Haydn, we're not flippin mind readers.

Pete Dawson has done Blomu in Santa Linya and Joe Blau in Oliana, both 8c+.
The two 8b's he flashed in Santa Linya: La ruta del sol and Codigo Norte. The 8c was Rollito Sharma Extension.
His 8a scorecard had no comments on any of the routes for that mega day, so clearly didn't phase him!

submaximal gains

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#7273 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2017, 11:02:23 pm
Lucy Mitchell (Irish) has climbed Fish Eye 8c (originally 8c+) at Oliana. As reported on the other channel.

dave

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#7274 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2017, 11:31:45 pm
Again?

 

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