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significant repeats (Read 4405090 times)

T_B

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#7175 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2016, 12:19:58 pm
Fair dues. He's done a bunch of gnarly big wall stuff with Neil Chelton, including Reticent Wall, 2nd ascent of Continental Drift (w/Pitons Pete), and the South African route on the central tower of the Torres Del Paine (including rockfall and epic descent). Good all round wall climber.

Really? I associate him (from his logbook) with bouldering really hard. I'm amazed someone who is such a good rock climber is interested in aid climbing.

turnipturned

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#7176 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2016, 12:36:22 pm


Really? I associate him (from his logbook) with bouldering really hard. I'm amazed someone who is such a good rock climber is interested in aid climbing.
[/quote]

In the last couple years he has mainly bouldered. He has also done a lot of hard trad climbing in both lakes and Yorkshire. One of those people, if he wants to do something he will do it.

Johnny Brown

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#7177 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2016, 12:41:33 pm
Deal with it Tom, he's the genre spanner. All the kids are climbing 8A/8A+ nowadays though, not many are doing the Afanasief or Reticent.


T_B

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#7178 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2016, 12:47:39 pm
Sure but aid climbing's basically over-hyped rope access. Except you don't get paid. It appeals to a certain... er person in my experience (like someone who prefers touching cold steel rather than rock). Font 8A may be peanuts thesedays, but I'll wager there aren't many A5 leaders who boulder harder than Font 5+ (edit: actually I know a very good aid climber who boulders 7C).

Is he an engineer?

Footwork

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#7179 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2016, 01:11:51 pm
Callum Coldwell-S is a brilliant climber. IIRC he flashed Marrowbone Jelly?

Seen him at the cliff a couple of times and he just pathed everything he tried. He didn't seem interested in sieging stuff, just got on with it and climbed as much as he could.

I don't know him personally but his attitude to climbing is top. Also very patient, waiting ages in the freezing cold for his mate (Rob Lay?) to do Pistol Whip after he did it 2nd/ 3rd go.

Johnny Brown

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#7180 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2016, 01:20:11 pm
Yeah, I wonder if he'd be sponsored and famous if he sieged some big numbers. Or maybe they don't fancy someone who climbs with partners like Irritating Welshy, the jew and Gav the cunt.

Will Hunt

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#7181 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2016, 01:39:48 pm
I've seen him climb up on Barden Fell and he's pretty handy. I seem to remember him flashing Free Range and I was really impressed, but it looks like he didn't log it as a flash on UKC. But then Nige Kershaw (well known Peak Punter) also flashed that problem so maybe it's just not as nails as I thought  ;)

What surprises me with his bouldering is how he can get to a point where he's pathing all these things without ever having a phase where he projects stuff - which presumably is when you make your gains in strength (i.e. when you're doing proper limit bouldering). Does he train lots?

36chambers

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#7182 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2016, 03:52:10 pm
I don't know him personally but his attitude to climbing is top. Also very patient, waiting ages in the freezing cold for his mate (Rob Lay?) to do Pistol Whip after he did it 2nd/ 3rd go.

That's very unlike Will Hunt of him.

Johnny Brown

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#7183 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2016, 05:52:07 pm
I don't think you need to train much if you climb enough. Guessing he had to project the 8A/+ stuff.

Duncan campbell

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#7184 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2016, 09:20:12 pm
Nice one Calum!! Went on a trip to Pabbay with home a few years ago. Been watching his logbook with an open mouth since.

Though from memory he didn't work much so maybe this is all to be expected?  :P

Moo

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#7185 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2016, 09:47:27 pm
Lazy cunt's never worked a day in his life #waster   :clap2: :clap2: :clap2:

Doylo

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#7186 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2016, 07:12:43 pm
Bewilderness 8B+ for monkey boy (Dave Mason)

dave

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#7187 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2016, 07:31:10 pm
Nice one Mase.

duncan

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#7188 Re: significant repeats
November 13, 2016, 10:51:44 pm
Jorg Verhoeven has repeated Dihedral Wall, according to Adam Ondra. This is the most sustained and probably hardest of Tommy Caldwell's pre Dawn Wall routes with 10 pitches of 8a-8b+.

The route takes one of the most obvious lines on El Cap, the corner and cracks left of The Salathe. It was the third line to be climbed (1962) after the Nose and Salathe. First ascentionists Ed Cooper and Jim Baldwin warmed up on Squamish's Grand Wall, climbed the previous year.

Topo


Photo: Jon Glassberg

HaeMeS

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#7189 Re: significant repeats
November 14, 2016, 05:45:12 am
Also on El Cap this weekend, Sebastien Berthe (another strong Belgian climber) made the first repeat of the Free Heart Route (FFA Mason Earl 2015) according to Sebastien on Facebook.
https://www.facebook.com/Sébastien-Berthe-1060275197397636/
https://www.facebook.com/mcflyteam/


Wood FT

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#7190 Re: significant repeats
November 14, 2016, 07:11:28 am
 :icon_welcome:
Also on El Cap this weekend, Sebastien Berthe (another strong Belgian climber) made the first repeat of the Free Heart Route (FFA Mason Earl 2015) according to Sebastien on Facebook.
https://www.facebook.com/Sébastien-Berthe-1060275197397636/
https://www.facebook.com/mcflyteam/



Wow what a picture

remus

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#7191 Re: significant repeats
November 14, 2016, 12:31:12 pm
Probably only significant if your a south west yokel, but looks like the ramp challenge has had it's first successful 'ascent': http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=436884

In short: all the starred routes on the ramp at avon gorge in <24hrs. 50 E points per person, 12 routes and an average grade of ~E4.

rosmat

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#7192 Re: significant repeats
November 14, 2016, 12:46:23 pm
Good effort by the Ginga Ninja

Will Hunt

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#7193 Re: significant repeats
November 14, 2016, 01:20:54 pm
Since there's lots of El Cap talk going on, I thought it worth pointing out that Bronwyn Hodgins very very nearly freed Freerider. I think there was one move of the Huber boulder problem that she didn't do.
Bronwyn is better known (unfairly) as Jacob Cook's girlfriend, but is herself an impressive climber - a BronwadTM if you will.

In May last year Bron freed Moonlight Buttress with less than three year's of climbing experience under her belt. I've not got some sort of internal clock that monitors how long the BronwadTM has been climbing for, but by my count that means she's been climbing for 4 and a half years at the very most.

tk421a

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#7194 Re: significant repeats
November 14, 2016, 01:34:11 pm
Since there's lots of El Cap talk going on, I thought it worth pointing out that Bronwyn Hodgins very very nearly freed Freerider. I think there was one move of the Huber boulder problem that she didn't do.
Bronwyn is better known (unfairly) as Jacob Cook's girlfriend, but is herself an impressive climber - a BronwadTM if you will.

In May last year Bron freed Moonlight Buttress with less than three year's of climbing experience under her belt. I've not got some sort of internal clock that monitors how long the BronwadTM has been climbing for, but by my count that means she's been climbing for 4 and a half years at the very most.
Probably the most inspirational thing to come from the Valley chat. Someone who I'm more able to associate with - as opposed to uberwads - (almost) climbing something I'd love to do. There might be hope yet  :shrug:

rosmat

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#7195 Re: significant repeats
November 14, 2016, 01:40:49 pm
Bron also did the Rostroman link up this season (Astroman + Rostrum) - pretty amazing for someone who has been climbing about 4 years.

shark

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#7196 Re: significant repeats
November 15, 2016, 12:00:23 am
Bewilderness 8B+ for monkey boy (Dave Mason)


Doylo

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#7197 Re: significant repeats
November 15, 2016, 10:56:19 pm
Maddy Cope has just climbed Freerider on El Cap with Ryan Pasquill. When I google 'British female on el cap free' it just comes up with Hazel so that's another blonde Warrington lass in the exclusive El cap club.

Great stuff

Apparently it wasn't completely free, fell off a few times . Same for Ryan.

Wood FT

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#7198 Re: significant repeats
November 16, 2016, 09:47:17 am
Maddy Cope has just climbed Freerider on El Cap with Ryan Pasquill. When I google 'British female on el cap free' it just comes up with Hazel so that's another blonde Warrington lass in the exclusive El cap club.

Great stuff

Apparently it wasn't completely free, fell off a few times . Same for Ryan.

wa.

Ged

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#7199 Re: significant repeats
November 16, 2016, 01:01:44 pm
Probably only significant if your a south west yokel, but looks like the ramp challenge has had it's first successful 'ascent': http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=436884

In short: all the starred routes on the ramp at avon gorge in <24hrs. 50 E points per person, 12 routes and an average grade of ~E4.

Ascent of the year. Well done to the Bristol asked loud moth

 

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