[SA Chris]

Which is harder to onsight, Rare Lichen or Hubble?

Harder as in more difficult or more dangerous? Hubble probably harder to do, RL more likely to be seriously injured.

[Wood FT]

Young James Turnbull has just climbed Bat Route 8c, absolutely amazing achievement considering he climbed his first 8a only 5 months ago. 8a-8c in 5 months! 

Good effort.

A shit tonne of climbing?

Inspiring. Watched him do his first 8a this spring, such good rapid progression made me wonder and from my perspective it seems to boil down to 3 things

Student time zone
Bouldering background
Go for it attitude, skipping clips. Big falls etc

Well done James

From my perspective I think all those things are definitely important, but I'd also be interested to know what he did behind the scenes...

Flipping amazing effort and progression no matter what he did! Bloody students...

[SA Chris]

He told me he's been eating avocados, must be the new broccoli

Does he avocate them?

[cowboyhat]

Seems like a pricey diet for a student, they're getting more expensive because of the shortage.

[cjsheps]

Yesterday, 18 year-old Pete Dawson did Unjustified 2nd go, on his first day in Malham since he was climbing 7a. We're going back to the Cove today, and he's just moved up to Manchester, so expect big things in the short/medium term from him!

[AlistairB]

Yesterday, 18 year-old Pete Dawson did Unjustified 2nd go, on his first day in Malham since he was climbing 7a.

This was one of the most impressive bits of climbing I've seen at Malham! He was properly fighting all the way through the crux.

[cjsheps]

Bloody hell.

Today, Pete decided to get on Bat Route. He did all the moves bolt-to-bolt and decided not to wait until the crag came into shade before having a go. He climbed almost the entire route, before his foot popped at the very end. He had a rest, and did the thing next go.

This, UKB, is some next-level shit.

[Fultonius]

Robbins?

[cjsheps]

Dawson, again!

Edit: Today was his first time on the route.

[moose]

Nice to hear that his earlier fall didn't break his spirit.  He was so unlucky that time  - just as he got to some ultra-thin and techy looking stuff at the top, the sun emerged from behind the cloud with some fiercesome intensity and stole all his footholds.  Really impressive stuff up until then - he somehow managed to look very strong and in control yet also improvisational.  And bonus points for giving the watching hordes a treat with a bat-hang!  So hot today - I regard myself as pretty keen and reluctant to play the "conditions" card (at least when it comes to warm weather - I save my opprobrium for the finger-numbing cold), but even I had sacked off trying anything hard and ended up doing laps on Wasted Youth! 

[Fultonius]

Oh, yeah... Should have scrolled up a bit 

P.S. Sounds likes a ludicrously good effort!

[Wood FT]

such an impressive weekend of climbing, watching that first redpoint on bat route was very entertaining, really going for it

[Duma]

Refreshing....

Undiscovered: The Isabelle Faus Profile

According to the other channel she's done Wheel of Chaos 8B+ 

No mention of it on her instagram etc...

[standard]

Refreshing....

Undiscovered: The Isabelle Faus Profile

According to the other channel she's done Wheel of Chaos 8B+ 

No mention of it on her instagram etc...

doesn't want to spray, does she! (she lets her boyfriend do it)

[i_a_coops]

such an impressive weekend of climbing, watching that first redpoint on bat route was very entertaining, really going for it

He certainly knows how to really go for it:

[jwi]

Jean Claude Villecampa, one of the legendary group of French route developers known as BTR (Bielsa-Terradets-Rodellar), has repeated “Tilt” 8b/b+ on Foz de la Canal in Bielsa. Significant as he is 64 years old.

Source http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/jean-claude-presidente-de-los-btr-8b-bmas-con-64-anos

[Drew]

Refreshing....

Undiscovered: The Isabelle Faus Profile

According to the other channel she's done Wheel of Chaos 8B+ 

No mention of it on her instagram etc...

doesn't want to spray, does she! (she lets her boyfriend do it)

I'm slightly confused by that article. It's not like she hasn't been sponsored before:
Five Ten Blog
I'd assume it was her own choice to end her deal. Does she want to climb for her own enjoyment, or is she bitter about not being sponsored? 

[slackline]

Its possible to be sponsored and not over-hype your successes is what I think is being said.

[ferret]

Refreshing....

Undiscovered: The Isabelle Faus Profile

According to the other channel she's done Wheel of Chaos 8B+ 

No mention of it on her instagram etc...

doesn't want to spray, does she! (she lets her boyfriend do it)

I'm slightly confused by that article. It's not like she hasn't been sponsored before:
Five Ten Blog
I'd assume it was her own choice to end her deal. Does she want to climb for her own enjoyment, or is she bitter about not being sponsored? 

There's a thread on Nalles facebook where somebody asked her about the fiveten deal. She said that she was only getting free shoes from them, and after her string of hard ascents she asked for some financial support but they were not interested. She's currently looking for other alternatives.

[standard]

that's fine, isn't it? when was was there ever a video of any of her hard ascents, promoting 5.10? (someones going to link loads now...)

[Muenchener]

It's almost as if firms want to spend their marketing budgets on people who make an effort to support their marketing activities.

[jwi]

Not really significant, but Pierre Trolliet from Toulouse has repeated Stevie Haston's Descente Lolita, 9a in Sabart in Ariege. I think it is one of the first repeats.

Descente Lolita adds an 8a+ extension to Descente aux enfers, 8c+, and according to Pierre the extension is way too easy to bump the grade, so he think that they should both be 8c+.

[Doylo]

You can't downgrade Stevie Haston. He's our Grandad beacon of hope.

[Wood FT]

Not really significant, but Pierre Trolliet from Toulouse has repeated Stevie Haston's Descente Lolita, 9a in Sabart in Ariege. I think it is one of the first repeats.

Descente Lolita adds an 8a+ extension to Descente aux enfers, 8c+, and according to Pierre the extension is way too easy to bump the grade, so he think that they should both be 8c+.

brave man.

[Duncan campbell]

Not really significant, but Pierre Trolliet from Toulouse has repeated Stevie Haston's Descente Lolita, 9a in Sabart in Ariege. I think it is one of the first repeats.

Descente Lolita adds an 8a+ extension to Descente aux enfers, 8c+, and according to Pierre the extension is way too easy to bump the grade, so he think that they should both be 8c+.

brave man.

+1 - could be one of the harder trad routes in the world in this combo - significant chance of breaking legs if he bumps into Stevie... though with Stevie spending a lot of time in malta/gozo maybe its not so bad...