[nai]

Took a global wad to do it.

Took a global wad to put it up in the first place, just happened to local global wad

[Drew]

 

I was just talking about this the other day. The stand up has had a few ascents now. Surprised me that no-one had done the sitter. Didn't realise it was 8B in it's own right!

[Nibile]

Fantastic news!
Really chuffed for him! 

[Doylo]

I was just talking about this the other day. The stand up has had a few ascents now. Surprised me that no-one had done the sitter. Didn't realise it was 8B in it's own right!

I think it's supposed to be an 8A into the stand.

[Drew]

I was just talking about this the other day. The stand up has had a few ascents now. Surprised me that no-one had done the sitter. Didn't realise it was 8B in it's own right!

I think it's supposed to be an 8A into the stand.

Ah... I saw it on UKC, but misread it.

[shark]

Just for the record, and given that Ben is careful to make the distinction, it is strictly speaking a Low Start rather than a Sit Start. Sorry. As you were.

[r-man]

If we are being pedantic, it actually says sit start in ben's vid, although it says low start in the description. He also called it a sit start in his blog. http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/2006/11/just-climbed-voyager-sit-start/

I vaguely remember there was some (exceedingly daft) confusion about this so ben stopped saying sitter and started saying low start?

[Fiend]

King Line anyway. The low start makes sense as it takes the full length of the feature. 

[Banana finger]

C'ummon yes

[jwi]

Apparently Bruderliebe on the Marmalade has got its first repeat in August(?!) by Alessandro Rudatis and Massimo Torricelli

http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=43195

hmm

[Wood FT]

Why the 'hmm'? 

[abarro81]

That's what I was wondering, let's have some gossip and rumours!

[Nibile]

Maybe because that link gave me a virus alert?

[jwi]

It's just so weird that this hasn't been reported before?

[Wood FT]

That's true, needed someone from adidas or over-caffeinated sugary drink company on it

[jwi]

Boom! Dani Andrada has repeated Chilam Bilam

http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/dani-andrada-encadena-chilam-balam

[abarro81]

That's well cool

[SA Chris]

Good stuff. Does he confirm grade? My Spanish ain't so hot.

[abarro81]

I think he says 9a+/b or 9b but I'm a bit confused about if he's talking about Ali Hulk at that point.. He says it's easier than his 2 9b links in the Ali Baba cave, but then they're boulder/route hybrids, sounds like he thinks it's the hardest route he's done that's a 'pure' route

[duncan]

According to google translate he thinks it has too many rests to be 9b: I think it is, as Seb Bouin (second repeater) said, 9a+/9b or hard 9a+. Sounds like he found 25 or so hands-off rests and was consequently very leg and abdominal muscle intensive.

He rates it as the best route he's ever done.

[abarro81]

He rates it as the best route he's ever done.

That's pretty high praise given the stat in that interview that he's done over 3000 8s, 20 something 9s and 20 something 8c+/9as!

[Tommy]

Sounds like he found 25 or so hands-off rests and was consequently very leg and abdominal muscle intensive.

When do we go Alex?

[slackline]

Sounds like he found 25 or so hands-off rests and was consequently very leg and abdominal muscle intensive.

"He also says he found no less than 25 no-hands-rests, and that the redpoint took 1h 5 min."

PlanetMountain also report the redpoint took about an hour

[cjsheps]

He reckoned Ali Hulk and Delicuente Natural were harder (Mangus agreed with 9b for Ali-Hulk), but it takes third place. He goes on to say that the you can't compare the style of such different routes, and grading's a tricky game. He just proposes a grade and sees what other people think. Above all, the difficulty of Chilam Balam was mental for him, although it's physically easier than the aforementioned pair.

[cjsheps]

Also YYFY FOR DANI. The climbing community's reacted here like the UK community did for Ben and Stu on Rainshadow