[Teaboy]

Doing the "redpoint" may be similar (head issues aside) but working a traverse is logistically far easier than working a route. You simply step on to the bit you want to work, without having to climb / frig / stick clip / generally expend time and energy getting to that point.

But for this particular traverse that's outweighed by the fact that you can't just pull on anywhere as some of it is quite high. Similarly uncontrolled falls from these sections are ill advised (Tanya injured herself quite badly from one of these) which means on some red points are probably dropped because people rather drop off rather than push as they would if on a rope. 

[Wood FT]

E10!

[Stu Littlefair]

My point was really that Tanya's ascent is fucking impressive. First E10 by a british woman...

[danm]

I hope nobody gets too offended, but why does it seem like every time a woman does something really hard and good, there ends up being a discussion about grading? Can we just drop it, or at least start a completely new thread on grading please?

[SA Chris]

As others have said, I think we're all well aware that 9a isn't cutting edge, but Stu is a regular here and we feel it's a big achievement for "one of us" - even those of us like me who've never actually met him.

You saying he's a punter? It's even more impressive for people who have actually met him. Or seen him try and surf .

[willackers]

As others have said, I think we're all well aware that 9a isn't cutting edge, but Stu is a regular here and we feel it's a big achievement for "one of us" - even those of us like me who've never actually met him.

You saying he's a punter? It's even more impressive for people who have actually met him. Or seen him try and surf .

You should see him try to dyno! Shambles

[Doylo]

Tanya's ascent is impressive to me because she's only climbed 8a+? on a rope so she's really upped her fitness levels. Much like Stu missing out 8c+.

[Three Nine]

As others have said, I think we're all well aware that 9a isn't cutting edge, but Stu is a regular here and we feel it's a big achievement for "one of us" - even those of us like me who've never actually met him.

You saying he's a punter? It's even more impressive for people who have actually met him. Or seen him try and surf .

He failed on Supercool, its like the softest 8a+ in yorks.

You should see him try to dyno! Shambles

[SA Chris]

As others have said, I think we're all well aware that 9a isn't cutting edge, but Stu is a regular here and we feel it's a big achievement for "one of us" - even those of us like me who've never actually met him.

You saying he's a punter? It's even more impressive for people who have actually met him. Or seen him try and surf .

You should see him try to dyno! Shambles

I'll leave it at his discretion to reveal details of surfing.

[petejh]

I hope nobody gets too offended, but why does it seem like every time a woman does something really hard and good, there ends up being a discussion about grading? Can we just drop it, or at least start a completely new thread on grading please?

It's inevitable isn't it? It's just the outcome of a bunch of guys on an internet forum trying to mentally translate from bloke to bird without any first-hand experience of 50% of the concept - i.e. it takes guys a leap of imagination to understand what it must be like to exist in a parallel reality in which french 8b+ becomes as equally deserving of the prize of a McFlurry and large Coke as Stu boshing out Rainshadow, 9a. It helps to have internet discussions with other people who've never climbed either route to understand how this concept works.

There are no women on ukb, ever. So a gender-balanced response can never take place. Because of this someone will always eventually end up playing the role of honorary female conscience. I think any supposed females on ukb are likely imaginary people created by Toby and Simon to try to make the place seem a little less like the Royal & Ancient clubhouse pre-2014.

My guess is an equal parts male/female response would look very similar to what we already have ('hooray!' 'well done!' / 'how significant is this?'), but said equally by people called things like 'dave' and 'sharon'.

(and hooray, well done!)

[moose]

I  still don't really believe Stu climbed Rainshadow.  We chatted at Kilnsey the weekend before and he just seemed... normal.  I am quite convinced that anyone about to tick Rainshadow would have been surrounded by a radiant aura of impending magnificence - like the "Readybrek" adverts of childhood. 

[kelvin]

I don't believe

Ye of little faith. Ten 'hail non specific gender parent of Christ' and four MaccyDs... and all will be forgiven, my non gender specific child.

[Oldmanmatt]

I don't believe

Ye of little faith. Ten 'hail non specific gender parent of Christ' and four MaccyDs... and all will be forgiven, my non gender specific child.

Io you religious bigot! What if he's Pastafarian?

Re-write as " Ye of little faith/knowledge, ten hail/salutations/ritual sacrifices/no-fucks-givens Non gender specific Mother/Creator/Father/Builder/Non-existent (insert deity/Alien/Spirit Mother/fuck all/Richard Dawkins here) and Four (Insert highest paying sponsoring fastfood chain's flagship product here).

And next time don't be so thoughtless.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[shark]

Tanya Meredith has made the first female ascent of the Craigy Longridge Traverse ! 
Quality shuffling!

Interview: http://www.climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/tanya-meredith-does-traverse-of-the-gods-f8b.html

[duncan]

Nina Caprez and Barbara Zangerl make 3rd and 4th ascents of Die Unendliche Geschichte in Rätikon.

8b+ and 7c+ obligatoire, and that's Ratikon grades.

[jwi]

Nina Caprez and Barbara Zangerl make 3rd and 4th ascents of Die Unendliche Geschichte in Rätikon.

8b+ and 7c+ obligatoire, and that's Ratikon grades.

That's effing hardcore. Good style as well. I'd also like to ad my name to a third ascent after Kammerlander and Dal Prà... in another lifetime perhaps.

[IanP]

Nina Caprez and Barbara Zangerl make 3rd and 4th ascents of Die Unendliche Geschichte in Rätikon.

8b+ and 7c+ obligatoire, and that's Ratikon grades.

That's effing hardcore. Good style as well. I'd also like to ad my name to a third ascent after Kammerlander and Dal Prà... in another lifetime perhaps.

Agreed, proper impressive.  Good interviews with both on the Enormocast , particular enjoyed Nina's.

[cowboyhat]

I read on the other channel that Dan Turner has repeated Bewilderness. Bouldering 8b+/c is a good effort for a full time worker methinks.

Is this the first repeat?

[tomtom]

Vid was on the lanterns thread... Bon effort Dan.

[a dense loner]

Full time worker? Has more hols than monkey boy! Not sure if its first repeat, know Dave Jones locker could do crux static

[turnipturned]

Full time worker? Has more hols than monkey boy! Not sure if its first repeat, know Dave Jones locker could do crux static

Dense, you have no clue what happens outside your weird little quirk that you live in sheffield! I have worked full time for the Yorkshire Dales Rivers Trust since I left University (except where I took 6 weeks unpaid leave last year to go to America). 

Cheers to the other folks, yes it is the first repeat

[a dense loner]

Weird I was told he couldn't fall off the crux move! Sorry thought you went to magic wood as well and looking at your scorecard you do a lot through the wk

[william buck]

What's with the completely unprovoked attack? If you knew Dan at all you'd realise that what you're saying is nonsense and totally unnecessary. Give the guy some credit, even if he did have as many holidays as Monkey Boy he's just climbed contender for the hardest boulder in the UK, the fact that he does it whilst holding down a full time job does indeed just make it even more impressive. Well done Dan, shut up Dense.

[a dense loner]

What the fuck are you talking about? Since when was that an attack? I said I didn't know whether it was a first repeat and I was told that Dave Jones could do the crux static. None of that has anything to do with dan turner. I then put a ? next to dan being a full time worker since I didn't know whether he was and then I said he has more hols than Dave because while he was in the states he had a go at Dave for having loads of hols. Private joke I know, woe is me. And if you also take your head out of your arse William you'd have seen that I posted a couple of hours ago on the vid that dan made that I said it was a good vid and they both looked bloody strong.

[petejh]

I don't care what you say Dense those bolts are coming out.