[Oldmanmatt]

I suppose it depends on the definition of a "handful".
I can't, in fact, even hold one in my hand.

So, given the rather large number of Female climbers and the relatively small number who have/can climbed that grade compared to the "herd" and the size of that group compared to the Male group climbing comfortably there.
I think it's significant, interesting and encouraging, as will others.

You are, of course, always welcome to be a dick about it. [emoji12]


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[Oldmanmatt]

Seriously though, that prompted a (very, very) quick trawl through 8a. I don't pay too much attention to the "climbing media" beyond here and the few I follow out of passing interest of Farcebuck.
But the score cards near the top don't seem to support your assertion?






So, less than five minutes of looking, so not exactly a strong rebuttal.

Not that it needs rebutting either, this is purely a matter of interest, where should I be looking?


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[abarro81]

First off: nice one Emma!
Don't get me wrong, I wasn't saying that it wasn't significant or interesting, it is, just that implying that it's worldclass is dumb.

Shasha's comparatively shit now and Pooch's scorecard is hardcore so not sure why you included that one!

To me a handful is perhaps in the region of 5? Off the top of my head, girls onsighting 8b+ in the last 5 years or so - Sasha, Ashima, Mina Markovic, Evgenia Malamid, Charlotte Durif, Caroline Ciavaldini (8b/+), Maja Vidmar, some Italian girl whos name I don't remember (8b/+). I may have missed some. So I'd say that's a handful...

[jwi]

Matilda Söderlund has o/s 2 8b's in a day (even if she only took flash for Ramadan [because her climbing partner had climbed the route up to the crux ≈ 7b], I'd taken an O/S) a few years back. She also flashed an 8b+ in Frankenjura and one in Siurana (Kale borroka).

[Doylo]

I think it's significant in the British scene (hence posting on here) because of style of route and because it would be 8b+ in a lot (most) of places. No point comparing it to world class level because redpointing 8b is clearly way of the pace. When did Ruth Jenkins do Zeke? 20 years ago or so?.

[Moo]

I'd just like to point out at that female significant ascents seem get questioned, in this thread, on a far more regular basis than men's do.

This could be because the general level on the womens side has increased quite rapidly so it's difficult to known what counts as significant anymore.

Safe to say we don't hear about ladies ticking off 8B's on a particularly regular basis particularly bouldery ones in the UK.

Feel free to shoot me down here if you think I'm being unfair, but as far as I can see a british lass has put in some serious effort to pull off what is a pretty stern route so good effort.

[davej]

I think it's significant in the British scene (hence posting on here) because of style of route and because it would be 8b+ in a lot (most) of places. No point comparing it to world class level because redpointing 8b is clearly way of the pace. When did Ruth Jenkins do Zeke? 20 years ago or so?.

More than 20 years ago. I used to bump into Ruth and John Welford alot at Rubicon when she was ticking routes like Zeke. Cavier etc. She was a very impressive climber. I'm sure she could have climbed way harder. Does she still climb? Well done to Emma

[Ali]

Although not significant on an international scale, I'd say this has interest in a UK context, regardless of the style of route. I can only think of around 10 UK women redpointing at this level so if reports were restricted to a higher grade then there wouldnt be much women's sport climbing news about. Personally I find it motivating to hear news of women climbing well, so the more reports the better. Something doesn't necessarily have to be of major news value to be of interest to many people on the site,  but maybe there are actually two potential threads being covered here "internationally significant repeats" and "interesting repeats within the UK scene" but I be that ones been discussed to dwath before!

[kelvin]

More than 20 years ago. I used to bump into Ruth and John Welford alot at Rubicon when she was ticking routes like Zeke. Cavier etc. She was a very impressive climber. I'm sure she could have climbed way harder. Does she still climb? Well done to Emma

Yeah, she's over in southern France and still climbing, playing on f8s still. I climb with her brother most weeks.

[davej]

k

More than 20 years ago. I used to bump into Ruth and John Welford alot at Rubicon when she was ticking routes like Zeke. Cavier etc. She was a very impressive climber. I'm sure she could have climbed way harder. Does she still climb? Well done to Emma

Yeah, she's over in southern France and still climbing, playing on f8s still. I climb with her brother most weeks.

Glad she's still climbing 

[davej]

I think it's significant in the British scene (hence posting on here) because of style of route and because it would be 8b+ in a lot (most) of places. No point comparing it to world class level because redpointing 8b is clearly way of the pace. When did Ruth Jenkins do Zeke? 20 years ago or so?.

Probably a daft question but why not grade it 8b+ ?

[Doylo]

It got 8b+ originally until Ben Moon nearly flashed it and did it next go (shock horror). It's probably along the same lines as the other old skool routes that have been upgraded but Mel went in the guide as 8b. Emma thought it was hard 8b actually. I don't think it's any easier than Walking Mussel which gets soft 8b+.

[cha1n]

Respect to anyone for climbing 8b but the abbreviation 'FFA' annoys me. Seems like every relatively hard route a woman does lately is a FFA. Who cares who the FFA was? It's the FA that counts after all...

[Muenchener]

Also, old codgers might read it as "First Free Ascent"

Er, so I'm told 

[petejh]

Respect to anyone for climbing 8b but the abbreviation 'FFA' annoys me. Seems like every relatively hard route a woman does lately is a FFA. Who cares who the FFA was? It's the FA that counts after all...

Sort of agree and sometimes wonder if women are held back a little bit by a climbing scene 'norm' that continues to expect, and singles out with recognition, a significantly lower standard of performance than for males. Or in other words more or less the point GME was making a while ago. But then to play devil's advocate: who cares how old the guy is who did the 4th ascent of a 9a; it also isn't cutting edge globally so why the fuss?

Seems we all respect a good showing by a person who climbs well despite having the widely perceived handicaps to performance of being prepubescent, being female or being over 40 

(oh and Melanchollie's well-ard so good effort Emma 

[Doylo]

In that case only about 3 women would ever make the headlines.

[petejh]

Which headlines - 'international' (is there really such a thing as truly international climbing reportage?), or 'national'/'sponsored'/'well-known-in-the-scene'?

In the case of the pseudo-serious international climbing news (I say pseudo becasue we aren't talking serious journalism are we), no difference then - hardly any Brit women ever make the headlines for sport climbing or bouldering outdoors for the good reason of not being good enough. The ones that are, do.

Luckily we have UKB and UKC.

[abarro81]

I'd just like to point out I wasn't questioning the inclusion of the ascent in this thread; it's exactly the kind of thing I like on here. I was just responding to Matt's post which, to my mind, did down the level that the international top women are at right now.

[Wood FT]

Well known exploratory alpinist Alex Barrows managed to climb 'Progress' 8c+ at Kilnsey today

Also, spied/geeked that Pete Whitty onsighted 'the complete scream' E8 at fairhead

good bloody efforts!

[Teaboy]

Flipping good effort, I thought he'd given up for the day and was just doing mileage.

[SA Chris]

Good work Barrows boy!

[haydn jones]

I spotted that complete scream onsight too. Your not the only climbing geek

[Duma]

*You're*
/Pedantry.

[duncan]

Complete Scream looks amazing, and not inconceivable from the comfort and security of Mizen Star. It might still have had a little chalk on it from recent inspection(s).

[tomtom]

[Pedantry]
*You're*
[/Pedantry]