[gme]

I thought it was a great liitle film, including the drone bit. I had the pleasure of climbing with Marc when he was getting really close to this years ago, was aware at how proud he was of the problem and upset about what happened to it. So to see it done is great.

I am glad he didnt do it with the first sequence though as i really dont like that kind of go again move.

[Nibile]

I am glad he didnt do it with the first sequence though as i really dont like that kind of go again move.

Interesting point, I thought just the opposite.
I found the first sequence more similar to the original one, using the very same holds, although in a different sequence. It seemed doable, he stuck the go again move once, then spun off and fell.
For this reason (being very to repeating it with the original holds) switching to another sequence, with a completely different topout that misses the original crux, seemed a poor choice to me.
He was very very close, why did he change sequence?
Obviously  great achievement, hats off, rad syked chuffed for da posse 'hood stylez, but in my opinion he could have done even better, in fact he had nearly done better.

[Duma]

By climbing an eliminate just because it was more like the original sequence? Not in my opinion - not suprised at your take on it tho nibs 

[Duma]

from his FB:


L'Alchimiste was one of the most notorious projects in Fontainebleau with an interesting history. It was first climbed by Marc Le Menestrel back in 1996 at 8B (V13). At the time it was one of the hardest boulders in Fontainebleau and no one ever managed to repeat it. Then sometime after it's first ascent, the crux holds were broken off. Eventually it was deemed impossible, but it remained a mythical project for the next 19 years.

 The first time I tried L'Alchimiste was in the spring of 2014 after having just climbed Gioia in Italy. I found a way to climb it using a nearly non-existent sloper next to where one of the crux holds used to be. Then I managed to do all the individual moves. It goes! Now it was a matter of piecing it all together.


 I fully zoned in on L'Alchimiste. Soon enough I'd done it in two sections and fallen off the last hard move from the ground. I was really close! Day after day. But for this very friction dependent climb, conditions were not on my side. I ended up extending my trip several times in hopes of getting it done before the end of the season. However, soon enough the conditions became unmanageable. In the end I didn't do it.

 A year later I came back with a fresh mind and better conditions. Quickly I was getting very close again, falling from the last hard move! And then falling there again. And again. And again. This move that I had done individually maybe 30 times, proved yet again to be really hard from the ground.

 Then I started experimenting with an alternative method for the ending. An idea that I had discarded in the beginning. With some advanced foot-trickery I managed to connect it all and discovered a different way to climb the ending. In Fontainebleau the brain is definitely the most important muscle and this sums it up pretty well.

 One perfect evening I topped out L'Alchimiste while the sun was just starting to set over Apremont! After such an emotional rollercoaster with the project, my initial reaction was that it was finally over! Sometimes a project really tests you mentally as well as physically and this was one of those times. I'm glad it was on such a beautiful piece of rock in one of the most special places in the world!

[iain]

My first thought was the same as yours Nibs, but it's not the same holds. Looks like a broken hold is the first one Marc hits on the lip, Nalle didn't use it at all and tried a bigger move. The problem's changed so climbs differently.

Still 

[Sloper]

If that was a 5+ you'd get a fat middle aged local with appalling dress sense (yes, that's why I love Font, I look local) telling you your ascent doesn't count as you've used the wrong sequence.

FA of L Alchemist Right Hand then.

[Mike Highbury]

If that was a 5+ you'd get a fat middle aged local with appalling dress sense (yes, that's why I love Font, I look local) telling you your ascent doesn't count as you've used the wrong sequence.

Gosh, that's pretty harsh, poor Neil Hart.

[mrjonathanr]

I always thought it was 'carnivorous cement mixer'.

Could be...you'll be more in touch with usage than me being in France.... toupie not betonniere?

[Jaspersharpe]

Cool film, I like the drone stuff and it wasn't overdone. Well done Neil.

Amazing effort on the problem, great to see it redone. Sort of agree with Nibs that I'd have preferred him to do it the original way he was trying it. But it's Font so that sequence can be done as another problem. Win win.

Almost spat cider all over the table when I read Mike's post although it took me about 30s to get it. Very good.

[abarro81]

From reading the comments I was expecting him to top out significantly differently to the FA footage, but it's about half a foot away from the original?! Jasper and Nibs are crackers.

[abarro81]

Aside from that...
from a FB post by someone in Santa Linya, it sounds like Ashima has done Open Your Mind Direct, solid/hard 9a in Santa Linya 

[Falling Down]

Cider in March, when it's cold??

[Tommy]

Aside from that...
from a FB post by someone in Santa Linya, it sounds like Ashima has done Open Your Mind Direct, solid/hard 9a in Santa Linya 

Smoking cowboys. That's good! I guess it's one of the obvious ones for her as so bouldery at the start and isn't it a 9a/+ as well? They're not exactly small moves either. Some of the moves on the pockets on Fabela at the end look really big as well.... and thinking about this again.... I'm sure someone said she only got here a few days ago?! All business. No tapas.

[Jim]

Cider in March, when it's cold??

There are some proper savages on this site...

[Sasquatch]

Cider in March, when it's cold??

There are some proper savages on this site...

Why would you drink hot cider when it's not cold?   

[bendavison]

Aside from that...
from a FB post by someone in Santa Linya, it sounds like Ashima has done Open Your Mind Direct, solid/hard 9a in Santa Linya 

 

[Moo]

      she's 13

[dave]

Thir-fucking-teen.

[abarro81]

I think that matches Ondra's first 9a.. So maybe we'll see the first female 9b+ within a decade??

[Doylo]

Pretty nuts!

[fatboySlimfast]

Cider in March, when it's cold??

There are some proper savages on this site...

Why would you drink hot cider when it's not cold?   

Cider outside of the Uk is viewed as an amusing aperetif or a non alchoholic hot beverage.....

Cider in the uk is normally associated with this......


off topic, delete as appropriate

[Kingy]

Pretty incredible Marc did it with no bouldering mats in 1996, shows the value of a good spot. Would be unthinkable these days

[r-man]

Could be 9a+ following hold breakage...

http://www.climbing.com/news/ashima-shiraishi-climbs-possible-5-15/

[andy_e]

Cider in the uk is normally associated with this......

Shit, isn't that ciderstarfish?

[standard]

Here's what Open Your Mind Direct looks like.