UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 4364154 times)

Gallant

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 96
  • Karma: +9/-0
#5525 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2015, 07:49:57 pm
Quote from: beastmaker facebook page
Ned Feehally had a flippin' good day in Fontainebleau today!
Not only did he climb Jour De Chasse (pictured) he also crushed Mecanique Elementaire.

That's two 8b+'s in a day isn't it?! gasp emoticon

Wild Country
Photo taken by Shaggy
source : https://www.facebook.com/beastmaker.co.uk

Moo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Is an idiot
  • Posts: 1447
  • Karma: +84/-6
#5526 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2015, 07:50:30 pm

Sloper

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • fat and weak but with good footwork.
  • Posts: 5199
  • Karma: +130/-78
#5527 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2015, 08:10:48 pm
He's always come across as a mild mannered young man when I've met him.

Yeah but you're not black or from Guernsey.

Sloper, no i'm not thick. I take it you have a stick up your ass?

Several, the wife buys them from Moulton & Brown with some sort of posh oil.  I must say I prefer to putting them in than taking them out.

So is the young lad a violent racist and anti-Semitic thug or do you owe him an apology?

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#5528 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2015, 08:49:28 pm
World class Ned.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#5529 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2015, 09:47:02 pm
NNNNEEEEEDDDDD!!!!!!!!

standard

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 327
  • Karma: +9/-1
#5530 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2015, 01:10:21 pm
not really a significant grade any more, but Ondra did Necessary Evil 2nd go.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7996
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#5531 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2015, 01:38:47 pm
Jour de Chasse was given 8c by both Hojer and GGM.
It makes sense, because Mecanique Elementaire shares the same start but finishes up the 8a and it's 8b+.
Jour de Chasse finishes up the adjacent 8b whose name I don't remember.

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
#5532 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2015, 01:42:02 pm
He's always come across as a mild mannered young man when I've met him.

Yeah but you're not black or from Guernsey.

Sloper, no i'm not thick. I take it you have a stick up your ass?

Several, the wife buys them from Moulton & Brown with some sort of posh oil.  I must say I prefer to putting them in than taking them out.

So is the young lad a violent racist and anti-Semitic thug or do you owe him an apology?

They sound delightful, i'm a pauper and just have to make do with whatever's lying around.

Yes he is, no I don't.

tim palmer

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 735
  • Karma: +34/-0
#5533 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2015, 01:48:11 pm
Jour de Chasse was given 8c by both Hojer and GGM.
It makes sense, because Mecanique Elementaire shares the same start but finishes up the 8a (opium) and it's 8b+.
Jour de Chasse finishes up the adjacent 8b whose name I don't remember (narcotic).

fatneck

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2896
  • Karma: +143/-3
  • Fishing Helm
#5534 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2015, 01:49:41 pm
Beastly stuff! Shauna's on her way out to join them as I type...

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7996
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#5535 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2015, 01:52:21 pm
Jour de Chasse was given 8c by both Hojer and GGM.
It makes sense, because Mecanique Elementaire shares the same start but finishes up the 8a (opium) and it's 8b+.
Jour de Chasse finishes up the adjacent 8b whose name I don't remember (narcotic).
Egg. Sactly. Bravo.

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1196
  • Karma: +65/-0
#5536 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2015, 08:45:01 pm
Jour de Chasse was given 8c by both Hojer and GGM.
It makes sense, because Mecanique Elementaire shares the same start but finishes up the 8a and it's 8b+.
Jour de Chasse finishes up the adjacent 8b whose name I don't remember.

Jan did the first move with a dyno where as others have done the sensible thing and put their heel on. Jimmy said 8B+ I think.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7996
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#5537 Re: significant repeats
February 25, 2015, 11:12:31 pm
GGM gave it 8c with the heel hook.
Anyway a day to remember, I'm very happy for him.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#5538 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2015, 07:11:00 pm
Whether or not it's 8c maybe doesn't matter: at worst, Fat Ned just did two 8b+'s in a day. That's world class. What a ledge.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7996
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#5539 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2015, 08:23:40 pm
Yes I was wondering if anyone else has ever done at least two 8b+'s in a day.

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1984
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
#5540 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2015, 08:33:48 pm
Danial woods did this list at the 2012 Rock Rodeo:
 •Nagual (v13)
 •The Machinist (v14)
 •Crook by the Book (V14)
 •Phantom Limb V12)
 •Full Monty (V12)
 •Two Days With Gene (V11)


Sachi Amma did 8C and 8B+/C :
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68918

Maybe others, but I'm not sure....

jakk

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 53
  • Karma: +3/-1
#5541 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2015, 08:34:06 pm
Jacob Schubert managed it in magic wood last year from what I remember,  the riverbed low start and mystic stylez. Pretty damn impressive to manage it in font too

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#5542 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2015, 08:40:13 pm
Hueco rock rodeo's don't count for anything, unless they've never been tried before. Which I would hazard a guess that they've got every problem on their list worked to death. Not to say it's not impressive but it's not doing 2 hard problems in a day

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1984
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
#5543 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2015, 09:22:37 pm
So why is it any different than working two problems to death and then you happen to get a day of great connies and nail both of them in a go or two that day?

I get it that they've done them before, but there's no way they've got most of them worked to death.  Read up on it.  #1, they don't know what problems will be on the list. #2, Sometimes the problems are projects (see 2014 - Sugar Ray v13 FA and second ascent by webb and woods).

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
#5544 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2015, 09:48:00 pm
2 x 8b+ in font, outstanding. Well done Ned

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1984
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
#5545 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2015, 10:48:34 pm
2 x 8b+ in font, outstanding. Well done Ned

 :agree:  Indeed

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#5546 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2015, 08:20:28 am
Amazing effort Ned. Brilliant.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#5547 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2015, 09:49:50 am
Read up on it? I know exactly what they do Sasquatch. I've climbed with people working probs for the rodeo. They don't know what's in it? Of course they do, there may be a couple of projects and a couple of stray probs but on the whole they're established.
Obviously you have different views to me about doing a problem. If you've done a problem say 8A on the Monday and you do it again on the Thursday you haven't done 2 8A's or even an 8A twice. You did an 8A on Monday, anything after that is just training or going into show pony mode. To me there's a massive difference between doing 2 new things on the same day and 2 old things on the same day.

iwasmexican

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 328
  • Karma: +11/-0
#5548 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2015, 12:07:50 pm
Obviously you have different views to me about doing a problem. If you've done a problem say 8A on the Monday and you do it again on the Thursday you haven't done 2 8A's or even an 8A twice. You did an 8A on Monday, anything after that is just training or going into show pony mode. To me there's a massive difference between doing 2 new things on the same day and 2 old things on the same day.

....completely different from doing two problems with the same start and one finish I'm willing to bet he's done before...

 :bow: still extremely impressive :bow:

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7996
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#5549 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2015, 12:21:05 pm
Didn't want to cause a stir with my question, so let's just concentrate on the awesomeness of what Ned's done.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal