UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 4401750 times)

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
#5100 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2014, 09:03:10 am
Big Whittaker day. Hope there's still time to see Mecca Extentsion get a female ascent.

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1196
  • Karma: +65/-0
#5101 Re: significant repeats
October 09, 2014, 01:21:33 pm
Big Whittaker day. Hope there's still time to see Mecca Extentsion get a female ascent.

Yeah so do I!!

Grubes

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1440
  • Karma: +50/-0
  • Fat and Weak
#5102 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2014, 05:18:43 pm
Big Whittaker day. Hope there's still time to see Mecca Extentsion get a female ascent.
According to Neil mawson Mina did it.
https://twitter.com/ClimbingRumours/status/522056636274585600
"Got to watch Mina crush Mecca extension today at the tor. 1st woman to climb 8c on British soil! Nice 1 Mina, well impressive!"

JC

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 130
  • Karma: +24/-0
#5103 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2014, 05:40:54 pm
It was really impressive!  :clap2:

Mecca Extension | 8c by Jon_Clark, on Flickr

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#5104 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2014, 05:56:05 pm
Excellent.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
#5105 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2014, 07:10:31 pm
Well done Mina!

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7997
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#5106 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2014, 07:19:51 pm
 :dance1:

danm

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 829
  • Karma: +112/-1
#5107 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2014, 09:37:35 pm
Awesome!  :great:

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5787
  • Karma: +623/-36
#5108 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2014, 10:48:56 pm
:strongbench:

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#5109 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2014, 10:34:56 am
and still not been downgraded..::  :lol: effort Mina.

cowboyhat

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1499
  • Karma: +128/-5
#5110 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2014, 11:04:31 am
Yes a great effort, I've heard its desperate.

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1836
  • Karma: +283/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#5111 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2014, 12:29:24 pm
Give it time Doylo. ;-)
It is a great effort. I'm really impressed by the fact that she's come from a bouldering background and has ticked an 8c that depends critically on your recovery skills - lots of hard work went into this I'm sure!

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3086
  • Karma: +150/-5
#5112 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2014, 01:33:18 pm
Brilliant stuff.

How does it break down? 8b/+ into an 8a+ with a big rest in-between?

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#5113 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2014, 01:42:27 pm
Extension is 8a+ according to McClure in his book. Good little write-up about how it all breaks down and what it takes, which I won't copy and paste here... ;)

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1683
  • Karma: +77/-2
#5114 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2014, 01:51:58 pm
A fantastic effort by Mina!  :bow:  The top bit is 8a but used to be considered 8a+ (I have even seen it given 8b)

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8716
  • Karma: +626/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#5115 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2014, 02:53:50 pm
Extension is 8a+ according to McClure in his book. Good little write-up about how it all breaks down and what it takes, which I won't copy and paste here... ;)

Go on - treat it as a teaser

haydn jones

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1048
  • Karma: +95/-2
#5116 Re: significant repeats
October 15, 2014, 10:02:35 pm
Yea I thought that it was no more than 8a. But its very techy and you can spoon yourself on the final run out as some muppet demonstrated on monday. Well psyched to hear mina has done it. Psyched myself now. Whats next though kabaa?

kc

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 378
  • Karma: +42/-0
#5117 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2014, 02:04:35 pm
Keith told me all about it. That sounded terrifying. Suppose you must have got the rope round the back of your leg.

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1196
  • Karma: +65/-0
#5118 Re: significant repeats
October 18, 2014, 03:39:06 pm

Grubes

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1440
  • Karma: +50/-0
  • Fat and Weak
#5119 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2014, 10:25:17 am
according to tommy on facebook pete whittaker has flashed free rider.
Is that the first time a route has been freed clean first go on el cap?

I thought the closest was leo on el nino with 1 fall on the first pitch?

bendavison

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 338
  • Karma: +19/-0
#5120 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2014, 12:06:10 pm
according to tommy on facebook pete whittaker has flashed free rider.
Is that the first time a route has been freed clean first go on el cap by a brit?

I thought the closest was leo on el nino with 1 fall on the first pitch?

I think so.

Not bad for his second big wall! I also heard that Jorgeson and Caldwell did Pete and Toms new link up first go (I'm assuming they'd done the other two routes before).

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11442
  • Karma: +693/-22
#5121 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2014, 01:16:04 pm
according to tommy on facebook pete whittaker has flashed freerider

Amazing, been on the cards for someone for a long time but incredible if this is the first.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2967
  • Karma: +335/-2
#5122 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2014, 03:50:04 pm
I'm pretty sure this is the first proper flash. As JB says, several have come very close: Leo Holding on El Niņo in 1998 and with a one fall ascent of Freerider in 2005. Uli Steck onsighted Golden Gate in 2009 having fallen off a 5.11 pitch on Salathe/Freerider (it was wet). Cederic Lachat fell on the Huber boulder problem pitch on Freerider then onsighted the Teflon corner (an alternative to the Boulder problem that many think is harder) and onsighted the rest of the route in 2009.

Clearly a pure flash was a goal when they did their Muir-El Corazon link-up, great news that it's worked for them.

The Nose free looks right up their street, all that 3D weirdness in the changing corners, or will they go for a speed ascent?

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4305
  • Karma: +345/-25
#5123 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2014, 07:20:01 pm
Awesome! Nice one Pete

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8008
  • Karma: +633/-116
    • Unknown Stones
#5124 Re: significant repeats
October 19, 2014, 07:30:48 pm
That is so brilliant and incredibly inspiring. I love seeing somebody getting rewards like this when they've trained like a maniac. You reap what you sow. Well done, Pete.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal