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significant repeats (Read 4440224 times)

Tommy

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#4650 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2014, 10:28:10 am
That's really really impressive. There's in fact not that many ascents free of Salathe in what I would consider fair style (I.e. not climbing part, then going off the wall for X-number of days and coming back to finish off / splitting the headwall pitch) so it's very cool that our favourite British psycho trad man has done it. Doing it GU is adds even more to it. Very inspiring.


Johnny Brown

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#4651 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2014, 10:39:25 am
Agreed, very impressive. Not to be confused with Freerider, which is a 'lite' version of the Salathe avoiding the headwall. Remember that old footage of Pete Takeda on the headwall in Masters of Stone, amazing!

slackline

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#4652 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2014, 10:46:02 am

Well done to #team bmc member James Mchafie for sending the #Salathe free ground up!!

Climbed (at least in part) with Dan McManus.

James & Dan On Long Ledge...




abarro81

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#4653 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2014, 10:23:00 pm
http://danmcmanus.blogspot.co.uk/2014/05/salathe-wall.html

Write up of Dan and Caff's time on the route. Sounds like headwall was in 2 pitches not the uber-pitch version.

Tommy

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#4654 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2014, 09:37:24 am
Ah... not ground up or headwall in a oner.... Oh well Caff, do a few more 9a's and you'll probably have the fitness base ;-)

Good effort anyway and does sound annoying with those fixed ropes. I didn't know that anyone did that kind of crap any more. Dan is clearly destined to return with Reeve. Reeve, you know it if you're reading this!  :)


Stubbs

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#4655 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2014, 09:44:46 am
On an EL Cap note from his instagram Ethan Pringle missed out on the flash of Freerider with one fall on pitch 23 http://instagram.com/p/oKGurunQpx/ Not sure how significant this is, remember Yuji getting close to doing Golden Gate first go, has anyone every flashed El Cap?!

abarro81

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#4656 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2014, 09:49:36 am
I believe Cedric lachat flashed all the pitches on free rider, but they abandoned their 1st attempt part way up due to screwing up logistics and came back a dew days later better prepared.. Grey area I guess on whether it 'counts'

reeve

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#4657 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2014, 10:15:17 am

Dan is clearly destined to return with Reeve. Reeve, you know it if you're reading this!  :)



What, me getting dragged up another route beyond my ability at the hands of Dan McCool?
Arrrgggggghhhhhhhhhh!!  :o

iain

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#4658 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2014, 10:56:55 am
has anyone every flashed El Cap?!

No idea, but I had a vague, and accurate as it turns out, memory of Leo Houlding being one fall away from an onsight of Freerider. Also 2 falls trying to onsight El Nino.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57665
Interview near the bottom.

These modern wads need to try harder  ;)

Good effort James and Dan.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2014, 11:02:08 am by iain »

duncan

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#4659 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2014, 11:14:20 am
... has anyone every flashed El Cap?!

Not yet!

In addition to the above, Uli Steck also got very close on Golden Gate: one fall on the 5.11 pitch off El Cap Spire (it was wet) but onsighting all the hard pitches.

slackline

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#4660 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2014, 11:34:26 am
What stubbs said.  :sorry:
« Last Edit: May 20, 2014, 11:44:11 am by slackline »

Palomides

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#4661 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2014, 01:16:22 pm
It's flipping Wallstreet!!



I had the poster!! Great effort.

Another photo (and a bit of an interview) from Kairn.com


Doylo

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#4662 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2014, 09:03:12 pm
I struggle to understand how a 9a in 1.5hrs is really meaningful to Megos?

9a+!  ;)

Doylo

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#4663 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2014, 09:33:16 pm
It ll be interesting how he finds 9b when the time comes....

Jaspersharpe

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#4664 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2014, 09:50:31 pm
Stop hating on the geez!!

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petejh

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#4665 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2014, 10:22:53 pm
Personally I'm loving the Hubble sub-plot developing. The way it's going, it's going to be big news who out of Ondra or Megos does it first - I bet we won't hear much about timescales then: multiple days, pah!

Doylo

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#4666 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2014, 10:33:28 pm
It's great that Hubbles so fookin ard

Jaspersharpe

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#4667 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2014, 10:36:44 pm
Has McColl done it yet?

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Stu Littlefair

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#4668 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2014, 11:00:11 pm
He posted on twitter saying how hard it was. You could read that either way...

kelvin

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#4669 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2014, 11:01:13 pm
Maybe the question should be - will McColl do it?

ianto9

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#4670 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2014, 11:23:09 pm
when one of them onsights LA  Hubble or quarryman or AD then we should start thinking about regrading all the e1's in the world :worms:

Jaspersharpe

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#4671 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2014, 09:12:15 am
He posted on twitter saying how hard it was. You could read that either way...

https://twitter.com/mccollsean/status/469182150080606209

Doylo

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#4672 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2014, 09:30:09 am
Ben Moon in 1990, total wad!

slackline

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#4673 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2014, 09:41:11 am
According to Björn on the other channel, Alex Megos needed 1,5 hour to repeat "The man that follows Hell" 9a+ at Grüne Hölle.

Not just The Man That Follows Hell (9a+) (five attempts over the 1 1/2 hours but also....

Quote
...Black Label (9a) in 1.5 hours, Matador (9a) in 2.5 hours, The Essential (9a) in 9 attempts and in 3.5 hours

 :bow: :clap2:  Great effort and very impressive.

shark

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#4674 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2014, 09:04:42 pm
Who cares about how long he took?

In a fucking day???
 :o
I knew that someone was going to quote that post. I will try to be more precise. Mods, feel free to split/log.
In my opinion, some things are newsworthy, others are not. "In a day" has always been a benchmark for special ascents, for various reasons. But now we are down to "in x hours", and in bouldering to "in x minutes".....


Split topic for this discussion: Who cares how long he took?

 

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