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significant repeats (Read 4424012 times)

miso soup

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#4625 Re: significant repeats
May 12, 2014, 12:47:54 pm
...with the customary downgrade to 8B+.

miso soup

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abarro81

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#4627 Re: significant repeats
May 12, 2014, 04:09:09 pm
Surprised no-one has mentioned that Bolger did era vella the other week, his 7th 9a. Catching up with Steve? Anyone know how many he's done?

monkey boy

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#4628 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2014, 09:30:29 pm
Melissa Le Neve repeated Wall Street!

Muenchener

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#4629 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2014, 10:58:06 pm
Allez Melissa! Not bad for a boulderer.

Stu Littlefair

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#4630 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 07:21:23 am

Melissa Le Neve repeated Wall Street!

This is flipping awesome. Way more impressive in my book than the stamina 8c-9a pitches women have climbed in Spain.

It's filthy hard, it's reachy. It's flipping Wallstreet!!

lukeyboy

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#4631 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 07:39:21 am

Melissa Le Neve repeated Wall Street!

This is flipping awesome. Way more impressive in my book than the stamina 8c-9a pitches women have climbed in Spain.

It's filthy hard, it's reachy. It's flipping Wallstreet!!

+1  8)

Jaspersharpe

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#4632 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 08:56:29 am


 8)

SA Chris

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#4633 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 08:58:24 am
It's flipping Wallstreet!!



I had the poster!! Great effort.

davej

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#4634 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 10:10:53 am
awesome effort hardcore 8c :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:

GCW

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#4635 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 10:19:12 am
Easy to forget he died at 32.

Paul B

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#4636 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 01:02:18 pm

Melissa Le Neve repeated Wall Street!

This is flipping awesome. Way more impressive in my book than the stamina 8c-9a pitches climbed in Spain.

It's filthy hard, it's reachy. It's flipping Wallstreet!!

fixed for you.

Stu Littlefair

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#4637 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 01:45:30 pm
Thanks Paul. This is still blowing my mind. I spent a day trying Wallstreet a couple of years back. I was climbing 8b+ in a couple of goes at the time. Conditions were perfect. Couldn't do a single move.

What a beast Le Neve is  :strongbench:

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davej

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#4639 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 02:41:53 pm
After reading Stu's comments and the interview on planet mountain have a few more of these!  :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

a dense loner

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#4640 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 02:47:14 pm
Yep what a route to do!!!  :bounce:

SA Chris

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#4641 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 03:18:54 pm
Has it had stacks of other ascents in its history? The article doesn't say. That heelhook looks whack.

mr__j5

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#4642 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 03:35:20 pm
Melisa is a true beast.

It was a shame that she was injured when she came to CWIF in March.

Jaspersharpe

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#4643 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 04:14:25 pm
Old skool 8b+.  :strongbench:

Another one that got upgraded when the stamina plodders realised they were overgrading everything in comparison to the original hard routes.  ;)

Nibile

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#4644 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 04:21:56 pm
But let's talk about those Five Ten...

Ru

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#4645 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 04:53:16 pm
Old skool 8b+.  :strongbench:

Another one that got upgraded when the stamina plodders realised they were overgrading everything in comparison to the original hard routes.  ;)

Wallstreet became 8c when Wolfgang filled a hold in with cement after it was blowtorched bigger, and reclimbed it. It's always been 8c in its current form.

Jaspersharpe

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#4646 Re: significant repeats
May 15, 2014, 04:56:35 pm
Curses Ru. Stop letting the facts get in the way of a good story.

ghisino

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#4647 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2014, 12:30:01 am
But let's talk about those Five Ten...

Fiveten hiangles. Stiffer in the sole, softer in the uppers (no lining, leather at the back). Apparently targeted to plastic-fed beginners getting their first pair of downturned shoes. And climbing 8c on their first day outside, of course.

Muenchener

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#4648 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2014, 06:19:08 am
Alex Luger greenpoints another 8b+ on the fantastic looking Bürser Platte, home of Prinzip Hoffnung.

Blatant DMM advertising:

Quote
The bouldery crux is protected with a IMP 2 and the run out is around four to five metres but thankfully I never fell from higher than one metre above that gear.

duncan

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#4649 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2014, 08:40:19 am
According to Hazel Finday's FB, James Mchaffie has climbed The Salathe free, ground-up. No details, doing the headwall in one pitch does make it a bit harder. This route gets quite regular ascents now but still a very good effort, in excellent style by the sound of things.

It's about time The Nose had another free ascent.

 

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