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significant repeats (Read 4244219 times)

lukeyboy

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#4125 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 08:09:55 am
Legendary stuff, quite the year for grit, standards keep progressing

And it's only mid November!!!

El Mocho

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#4126 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 09:45:53 am
Thanks for all the comments, feeling pretty happy and relieved! Said at the start of the day it would be a success if I was still able to walk to collect May from school at the end of the day, whether I had managed the route or not...

Amazing
More info  :please: font/french/e grade, gear?
Legendary stuff, quite the year for grit, standards keep progressing

Ray put up a little thing on the DMM site with some pics:

http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2013/11/parthian-shot-lives-on/

Yeah, back in 2008, when the yanks came over. Looking at this I reckon at least half the placements should still be there:




The only placement left from this photo is the bottom piece - the 3 above have all gone. We also got some gear in lower down in the flake but this was all pretty poor. The top piece is an RP3 - it is the placement which Will had but his runner had snapped. I think we had the same runner on the right hand rope (see Adams other photo on ukc?) but had it clipped on a single quickdraw rather than long sling - it took some of the load in the fall and might have kept us off the ground if the gear in the flake ripped...

Doylo

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#4127 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 10:20:17 am
Nice one Ben, sounds like E10!

cheque

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#4128 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 10:39:32 am
 :bow:

andy popp

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#4129 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 11:33:39 am
Love the 'things weren't going particularly well' comment in the DMM report, almost rivalling Mick Fowler for understatement. Great effort!

Robsons

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#4130 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 01:54:08 pm
Well done Ben, great effort!

Luke Owens

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#4131 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 02:05:20 pm
Effort Ben!

Johnny Brown

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#4132 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 02:21:48 pm
Looking at this:



It looks like Ben might be using a different sequence to the old 'pop to the shit pocket' move?

Nick B

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#4133 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 02:35:25 pm
Looking at this:



It looks like Ben might be using a different sequence to the old 'pop to the shit pocket' move?

There's definitely still a pop to the shit pocket!

Jaspersharpe

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#4134 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 02:38:30 pm
Blimey. Scary stuff, well done Ben!

John Gillott

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#4135 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 02:47:20 pm
Looking at this:



It looks like Ben might be using a different sequence to the old 'pop to the shit pocket' move?

Looks plausible - at 1'32" in the following go up with left hand rather than popping the right?


Nick B

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#4136 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 03:12:56 pm
Katy Whit just did knocking on heavens door.

Doylo

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#4137 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 03:15:27 pm
The slab queen strikes again

remus

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#4138 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 04:16:46 pm
It feels like the entire grit season has happened in a couple of weeks. Is there anything left to be done?

leeroy

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#4139 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 05:56:49 pm
If im not mistaken randall hasnt done the sheep yet.

Katy was cruisy today.

abarro81

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#4140 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 08:49:26 pm
Legendary stuff, quite the year for grit, standards keep progressing

I don't think it's just grit - the standard of 'the chasing pack' has gone up in sport I think too. I tried to count 8c or harder ascents by Brits this year (whilst in lab so without the help of the internet) and got to 31 ascents by 18 people. Which seemed like a decent chunk.

fatdoc

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#4141 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 09:52:24 pm
jeez...

this is awesome... E10 for sure???

 :bow: :bow: :bow:

Tommy

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#4142 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 10:08:45 pm
The season hasn't started until Barrows has placed his big banana feet on some gritstone smears at least once. And failed.

Nice one Katy - top stuff from a girl that holds down a proper job as well.

abarro81

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#4143 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2013, 10:18:11 pm
In that case the grit season was officially opened 10 days ago... Smears? Check. Abject failure on techy problems? Check. Kranko's Klown Feet? Double check. Desire to run away to Parisella's and climb on kneebars? Oh hell yeah.

P.S. I'd like to point out that whilst Katy spent the first part of the day climbing a really shit sequence on Elder Crack, she then went to the Foundry to train for limestone. Take that grit weaklings.

Kingy

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#4144 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2013, 05:54:56 pm
Muriel Sarkany has just done Punt-X 9a at Gorges du Loup aged 39!  :jaw:

petejh

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#4145 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2013, 06:42:09 pm
Brilliant, well psyched! Good going for someone so young!

Wood FT

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#4146 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2013, 07:11:30 pm
the holds are just jugs to him

cheque

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#4147 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2013, 07:13:15 pm
That's the route Jon Cardwell repeatedly fails on in the Island I think. "One-nil to the old farts";)

petejh

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#4148 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2013, 08:03:56 pm
the holds are just jugs to him

9a bird innit

Wood FT

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