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significant repeats (Read 4178213 times)

a dense loner

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#3900 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2013, 11:44:24 am
Good write-up from caff there

Pantontino

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#3901 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2013, 12:12:55 pm
Great close up shot from John Orr here:

http://news.v12outdoor.com/2013/07/10/james-mchaffie-makes-the-5th-ascent-of-indian-face-e9-6c/

Sends a shiver down my spine seeing how thin and insecure it is. The IF belayers should all have been given a dose of valium!

Fiend

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#3902 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2013, 12:20:39 pm
Good write-up from caff there
Definitely  :2thumbsup:

Nibile

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#3903 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2013, 12:34:24 pm
Fucking amazing and terriifying at the same time.

Luke Owens

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#3904 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2013, 01:44:34 pm
Anyone know if it was filmed?

Pantontino

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#3905 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2013, 04:55:49 pm
Anyone know if it was filmed?

Don't think so. Al Hughes was there (climbing) but he only took stills.

slackline

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#3906 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 02:07:51 pm

Fiend

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#3907 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 02:18:39 pm
Calum Musket has repeated it too. From DMM's Twitter and the caption to the picture above:

"A relieved Calum Muskett at the top of Indian Face with a successful ascent behind him. "

Luke Owens

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#3908 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 02:26:18 pm
Calum Musket has repeated it too. From DMM's Twitter and the caption to the picture above:

"A relieved Calum Muskett at the top of Indian Face with a successful ascent behind him. "

Respect, top effort! That was quick, didn't expect another repeat so soon. There will be queues under it next!

slackline

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#3909 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 02:31:03 pm
Calum Musket has repeated it too. From DMM's Twitter and the caption to the picture above:

"A relieved Calum Muskett at the top of Indian Face with a successful ascent behind him. "

That's Calum in the below picture which is hyper-linked to said tweet.

Respect, top effort! That was quick, didn't expect another repeat so soon. There will be queues under it next!



 I think Calum may try it today and George on Thursday so its about to  become a trade route. Good luck to them both. Im going to stick to cracks and  bolts for the rest of summer!

tc

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#3910 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 02:52:05 pm



Surely the roof could be onsighted? I'd love to see that in the news some day!
[/quote]

Don't be daft. No one onsights routes any more.

slackline

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#3911 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 04:00:29 pm


Its like buses!  :clap2:

andy popp

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#3912 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 04:23:05 pm
Fucking fantastic! The psychological dimensions of climbing are so interesting; the route hasn't got easier, gear hasn't improved significantly enough to change this particular route, I doubt any of these climbers would claim to be innately superior to Johnny - what has shifted? We can provide a pat answer to that, but it would mask so many subtle things that are going on. It happens every generation too.

Sasquatch

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#3913 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 05:07:50 pm
Don't underestimate the difference in shoes between now and then :)  But I get what you're saying and fully agree.  Don't underestimate the difference a little bit of self confidence can make. For a route of this nature, seeing it can make you believe it.....


T_B

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#3914 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 05:10:26 pm
I like the story of Adam Wainwright doing it 1st go on a top rope (must be nearly 20 years ago now?) and then having a sleepless night wondering whether to go for the lead. There have been plenty of folk over the years capable of strapping it on (after all, it's "only" F7c), these recent ascents only serve to emphasise how utterly serious it is. I doff my cap to JD in his Linces!

Jaspersharpe

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#3915 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 05:20:43 pm
I doff my cap to JD in his Linces!

Too right!

That story of Caff on Masters Wall is horrifying.

Wood FT

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#3916 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 06:16:01 pm
 Nice one George!

Muenchener

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#3917 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 07:40:20 pm
So when does a repeat of IF cease to be "significant"?  :yawn: ;)

dr_botnik

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#3918 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 10:16:17 pm
The day the music dies.

moose

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#3919 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 10:23:55 pm
when a lady repeats it using a knee pad.

Jaspersharpe

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#3920 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2013, 10:41:14 pm
The day the music dies.

But..... but... my talisman that means Ondra climbing 9b+ isn't important has gone.... you utter bastards.

Where does UKC go from here? Will someone please think of Chris Craggs.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


Tom de Gay

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#3921 Re: significant repeats
July 12, 2013, 10:00:16 am
Don't underestimate the difference in shoes between now and then :) 
Between '86 and now, you're right. But pink anasazis have been around since the mid 90s and, as any UKB survey will show, haven't been improved on much for this kind of slabby stuff.

jwi

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#3922 Re: significant repeats
July 12, 2013, 11:16:04 am
Don't underestimate the difference in shoes between now and then :) 
Between '86 and now, you're right. But pink anasazis have been around since the mid 90s and, as any UKB survey will show, haven't been improved on much for this kind of slabby stuff.
I asked Suzuki, the local legend in Toyota about some of his first ascents. Whenever I asked about which year he did this or that slab problem he always related that to shoe models. Like: Oh, I did that immediately after Boreal Ninja came out etc...
 :offtopic: :sorry:

tomtom

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#3923 Re: significant repeats
July 12, 2013, 11:51:43 am
I think seeing one of your peers doing a route is a big factor. Both for motivation and confidence. Micro beta can be given and if you know the folk you climb with well, you'll know your relative weaknesses/strengths to how they performed.

a dense loner

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#3924 Re: significant repeats
July 12, 2013, 02:05:48 pm
I liked that little aside jwi  :)

 

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