[SA Chris]

Man I want Cocoa Team Special so much now.

It looks great but entirely revolves around a really nasty sharp pocket. I've been up there three times and never managed to stomach more than a few goes.

Try a left hand entry into the crack? I seem to remember vague notions of holds.

[turnipturned]

Good effort Dan. Proper line Lanny! Proper hot that day as well!

[r-man]

From the bear cam blog.

[Johnny Brown]

Man I want Cocoa Team Special so much now.

It looks great but entirely revolves around a really nasty sharp pocket. I've been up there three times and never managed to stomach more than a few goes.

Try a left hand entry into the crack? I seem to remember vague notions of holds.

Yes its a left-hand entry in the crack. Whilst your right hand undercuts the hideous pocket. Which you  pulled on with, with your left hand, and then had to do a hideous rotating match on. Whilst locking it below your waist.

[fatneck]

From the bear cam blog.

Is it just me who always reads Beer Can? 

[Nan]

Until you just pointed it out fatneck, I've always read beer can. First time I've noticed it wasn't.

[Grubes]

yup beer can for me too ...

out of interest anyone know what shoes she is wearing? Are they velcro dragons? (yes I am that sad that I am wondering about the shoes)

[cheque]

Women's Wackbling

[Grubes]

nice but is it just me or does this sound like it could be used in a condom advert ...

The Blackwing has a glove-like fit with easy entry.

[Wood FT]

No mention of Varian doing Lanny Bassham or have I missed it?

Twitter exclusive

http://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/9148842045/#secret7ee522a272

i'd forgotten what a monster that line is, brilliant stuff!

[SA Chris]

Man I want Cocoa Team Special so much now.

It looks great but entirely revolves around a really nasty sharp pocket. I've been up there three times and never managed to stomach more than a few goes.

Try a left hand entry into the crack? I seem to remember vague notions of holds.

Yes its a left-hand entry in the crack. Whilst your right hand undercuts the hideous pocket. Which you  pulled on with, with your left hand, and then had to do a hideous rotating match on. Whilst locking it below your waist.

Oh? I had it on my head the standard approach to the upper crack for CTS was from the scoop on the right.

[Tom de Gay]

Man I want Cocoa Team Special so much now.

It looks great but entirely revolves around a really nasty sharp pocket. I've been up there three times and never managed to stomach more than a few goes.

Try a left hand entry into the crack? I seem to remember vague notions of holds.

Yes its a left-hand entry in the crack. Whilst your right hand undercuts the hideous pocket. Which you  pulled on with, with your left hand, and then had to do a hideous rotating match on. Whilst locking it below your waist.

I just rocked up into the crack with left, pressing down on pocket with right – no nasty undercutting, and not too sharp. You should be able to make that span (I believe we are men of similar dimensions...)


Found trying Lanny a much sharper proposition, degloving a finger in the process. I guess it depends how many goes you need though.

[Johnny Brown]

I just rocked up into the crack with left, pressing down on pocket with right – no nasty undercutting, and not too sharp. You should be able to make that span (I believe we are men of similar dimensions...)

Jeez. Off the couch? Still got it Tom!  I found the pocket on the arete rough rather than painful, but I don't like over-positive holds.

The original thread on the line is a classic:  http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11096.0.html

Thankfull you can all now enjoy the origins of the line's real name 'Peahound' thanks to youtube:

The relevant bit is not near the start, but you need to watch the whole thing, so I'm not telling you when.

[Fiend]

The original thread on the line is a classic:  http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11096.0.html

Good call...

as a late entrant into this debate, and as a new father who's had no sleep for about 72 hours, I'd like to throw this up the flagpole: names like "peahound", "gerty berwick" and "my friend-of-the-family the pineapple" are fucking dreadful. These are monster lines and deserve monster names, these aren't some toss lines in the arse end of the slate quarries you know. Names you need to aspire to, names so fly that you need to inform air traffic control when you're about to say them. To be a complete climber, you need to be able to send and to name. look to the likes of moffatt, gaskins, moon and fawcett for guidance. People say that the great threats to british climbing are shit like wirebrushing, toproping, chipping, access issues - I say bullshit, the tide of shit new route names needs capping in the ass before it turns into some kind of linguistically effluent bloodbath. these things matter for fucks sake. And on that bombshell I bid you good day.

 

P.S. Dan, king climber of king line repeats (and FAs), the beast has taste.

[JackAus]

linguistically effluent bloodbath

I'm definitely naming a problem that...

[Tom de Gay]

Jeez. Off the couch?

This was a couple of years back, so off the plastic rather than the couch


Anyway, I see from the other channel Julian Lines did something significant in Glen Nevis. I tried the original line with Dave back in the day – it's nails. Finishing the route at the crimp rail at around half height (by traversing into the adjacent crack) seemed more achievable, as the headwall was clearly a bit futuristic, and carpeted in scrittle. All sounds a bit bonkers  – hardest solo in UK?


No doubt he wanted to call it 'Highball that you bastards', but the name's taken.

[GCW]

I still like "The Fate of the Nortons".  I may steal it back some day.   

[SA Chris]

Anyway, I see from the other channel Julian Lines did something significant in Glen Nevis. I tried the original line with Dave back in the day – it's nails. Finishing the route at the crimp rail at around half height (by traversing into the adjacent crack) seemed more achievable, as the headwall was clearly a bit futuristic, and carpeted in scrittle. All sounds a bit bonkers  – hardest solo in UK?

Is this a significant repeat, or a new route? Anyhoo, great effort from the darkest of dark horses.

I suspect the book will be a great read.

http://www.shelterstone.co.uk/

[Tom de Gay]

Is this a significant repeat, or a new route?

Both, I suppose.

[Fiend]

It's an ace bit of rock and really needed that direct finish. Excellent stuff.

[Doylo]

Reply on UKC about Shauna that pretty much sums up what you're up against if you get involved with that forum.

That's probably because "as she told my wife" she doesn't get out often. That's probably due to being an indoor wall athlete. Its great she's getting some good routes in when she can between training etc.

As for the FFA thing, I've never considered a boulder route a First Free ascent as there isn't an alternative and even then this would be a Free solo. So lets just stick with that smaller word "sent". Bouldering... a handful of moves on a small rock compared to the stuff our other great UK Trad girl does, Ms Hazel Findlay.

[Wood FT]

 

technical trou wearing idiots

[Doylo]

its comical actually 

[BenF]

Reply on UKC about Shauna that pretty much sums up what you're up against if you get involved with that forum.

That's probably because "as she told my wife" she doesn't get out often. That's probably due to being an indoor wall athlete. Its great she's getting some good routes in when she can between training etc.

As for the FFA thing, I've never considered a boulder route a First Free ascent as there isn't an alternative and even then this would be a Free solo. So lets just stick with that smaller word "sent". Bouldering... a handful of moves on a small rock compared to the stuff our other great UK Trad girl does, Ms Hazel Findlay.

Yeah, I don't know why I even bothered posting on there to highlight the overwhelming lack of interest that forum seems to show to Shauna's amazing achievements (be they podium places in WC's or bouldering ascents of international standard).  I deleted my original massively sarcastic comments about her not being a trad climber, hence the disinterest.  Suffice to say I can't be f*cked responding to the replies I got.

To be fair to UKC, they report Shauna's results and ascents regularly and positively.  Shame so few posters ever have much to say, whilst having plenty of time to endlessly debate the same tired old subjects or take needless offence at innocent comments.

[Jaspersharpe]

Oh so you're saying that trad climbing is rubbish are you?! Typical smug superior UKB scum, the air of malice on this thread is palpable.