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significant repeats (Read 4320692 times)

AndiT

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#2550 Re: significant repeats
September 12, 2011, 08:24:44 pm
Thanks! I do like jumping above gear. A great route for sure. Got it on film too, so hope to show it at the 'True Grit' lecture in a couple of weeks.

Will Hunt

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#2551 Re: significant repeats
September 13, 2011, 07:23:37 pm
Luka Krajnc has repeated Bellavista! Steep, 4 pitch Dolomites 8c!

slackline

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#2552 Re: significant repeats
September 14, 2011, 07:15:35 am
Luka Krajnc has repeated Bellavista! Steep, 4 pitch Dolomites 8c!

And the rest, its on the Cima Ovest (although pitches are shared with other lines, namely the Swiss and Cassin).

They're big bits of rock....


Tre Cime de Lavarado (Portrait) by slack---line, on Flickr

Johnny Brown

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#2553 Re: significant repeats
September 14, 2011, 08:35:23 am
Nice pic. Any idea what the flowers are?

PS agree with Paul it could do with better development - the grey blue sky has a very RAW look.

duncan

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#2554 Re: significant repeats
September 14, 2011, 09:08:00 am
Nice pic. Any idea what the flowers are?
An Alpine Poppy of some kind?



SA Chris

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#2555 Re: significant repeats
September 14, 2011, 09:21:51 am
I'd say it looks like a poppy of some sort too. Great pic anyway.

slackline

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#2556 Re: significant repeats
September 14, 2011, 09:39:51 am
Thought they were poppies too. 

Cheers for compliments, one of the better shots from the trip (got the idea from a picture in a Refugio of Torre Venezia with a sea of pink flowers in the foreground, I don't have original ideas), been meaning to go back and play around with this, that can be my work distraction for the day  :whistle:

Anyway, all  :offtopic:

John Gillott

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#2557 Re: significant repeats
September 14, 2011, 09:45:11 am
Nice pic. Any idea what the flowers are?

PS agree with Paul it could do with better development - the grey blue sky has a very RAW look.

Yes, very nice. Does it need straightening up a bit?

Slightly different angles but compare with:

http://www.travelphotogallery.net/the-alps-ferrata-trekking-rock-climbing/tre-cime/the-italian-dolomites-tre-cime-photo-22.jpg.html

Which has it about right.

slackline

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chillax

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#2560 Re: significant repeats
September 20, 2011, 10:55:49 am
Libby Sauter and Chantel Astorga set new women's speed record on The Nose (10h41min knocking about an hour and a half of previous womens record)

Excellent stuff! Met Libby over there a couple of weeks ago and shes been out to improve the women's record for a while. I think it was a source of frustration that the difference between the mens and womens record was around 10 hours! I reckon they can still improve on it too.

Ethan

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#2561 Re: significant repeats
September 20, 2011, 09:07:14 pm
An 8c and 8b+ second go by Sasha!  :ohmy:


Doylo

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#2563 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2011, 03:37:06 pm
For me its harder to comprehend Honnold's crazy solos than Ondra's hard ascents. I think its because i'm a scaredy cat. Fair play.

PATRuL

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#2564 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2011, 04:06:29 pm
comprehension can lead to tension ... i wonder why i bother x

grimer

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#2565 Re: significant repeats
September 27, 2011, 07:14:37 pm
For the attention?

Only kidding  :) x


T_B

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#2567 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2011, 02:36:04 pm
Presumably (I hope) he adopts the Croft tactic of never doing a move he can't reverse? Mind you, that doesn't stop you getting pumped. Ice cool. 8)

benpritch

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#2568 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2011, 05:14:45 pm
sick

ding dong

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#2569 Re: significant repeats
September 28, 2011, 07:37:13 pm
incredible :bow:

Nemo

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#2570 Re: significant repeats
October 02, 2011, 08:41:15 pm
Vid of Dean Potter soloing Heaven a few years back:


Obviously a great effort solo flashing it, but despite the (terrible!) landing, perhaps doesn’t look like the most outrageous thing he’s done?  I can just about get my head around getting psyched for the short period needed for single pitch routes.  And on those, I still think the stuff Alain Robert was doing 20 years ago is yet to be bettered.  Various gnarly, long, technical 8a+/8b’s in hideous positions – La Nuit Du Lezard etc.  Kommunist and Darwin Dixit are physically a grade harder – but I suspect they’re less of a big deal to solo – the crux on both is low down and they’re both steep and positive.

The stuff that Honnold does which really blows me away are the big wall solos – Moonlight Buttress, NW Face of Half Dome etc… and now Alien (doing this on the same day as soloing Astroman again  :o).  The only other vaguely similar things I can think of are Hansjorg Auer on The Fish and Huber on The Brandler Hasse.  Keeping your head together soloing for the long periods you need for routes like that is just a totally different ball game.  Alien…  flippin heck… The thought of soloing to that belay on The Rostrum and then launching out across that roof is just stomach churning.  There’s not gonna be any reversing going on once you’ve set off on that – it’s about as committed as it gets.  And you’d have plenty of time to whistle “always look on the bright side of life” if you dropped it…  Gobsmacking… It’s still making me sick thinking about it…  (Thankfully I’ve never seen Moonlight… I’m assured that’s even worse!!!)   :bow:

Not so sure about trying to compare Honnold’s ascents to Ondra’s though.  They’re playing very different games.  It’s a bit like trying to compare Silvo Karo to Roger Federer. :shrug:

duncan

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#2571 Re: significant repeats
October 04, 2011, 09:54:31 am
Tom Evans reports that Mayan Smith-Gobat has freed The Salathe (via Monster crack variation), the second female ascent after Steph Davis.  The Kiwi woman got close to freeing it last year (one hang) but ran out of time, weather and partners.  This year she has been working the route with Sean Villanueva-O'Driscoll.

Salathe headwall: Mayan belaying, Sean climbing (Photo from Tom Evans)





« Last Edit: October 04, 2011, 10:04:13 am by duncan »

DaveC

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#2572 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2011, 11:41:47 am
I have heard that 'Wheel of Life' at Mt Stapylton had a fifth ascent last weekend from Ben Cossey. There are whispers of a downgrade but I haven't seen any further details on the www as yet and my source here only had sketchy information.

chillax

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#2573 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2011, 12:57:24 pm
Tom Evans reports that Mayan Smith-Gobat has freed The Salathe (via Monster crack variation), the second female ascent after Steph Davis.  The Kiwi woman got close to freeing it last year (one hang) but ran out of time, weather and partners.  This year she has been working the route with Sean Villanueva-O'Driscoll.

What's the accepted free ascent style for the headwall these days? isn't there some distinction between doing it with belays and making it one long pitch?

Going by the wisdom of Supertopo, its .13c as a rope stretcher. 13b without I think. Mayan and another partner flew by us on a speed ascent of the regular route on Half Dome in August (speed was not a word that could be used to describe our style on that route... ::) ). Nice person and great climber. Great to hear she got it done.

abarro81

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#2574 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2011, 01:51:50 pm
I thought Salathe was supposed to be 8b+ (14.a) or have I just made that up/got confused with the nose?
Good effort anyway!

 

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