[Bonjoy]

The repeat of a Birkett Scafell E8 (all of which are unrepeated) or I don't know, The Bastard (Rubicon)? That would be significant.

Not wishing to stir this pot any further, but if this is the level at which something is considered significant enough for this thread then it's going to be a seldom used thread and all the other stuff which goes on it (and is of passing interest to a fair number of bored people at work) will have to go on a new thread call "Slightly less significant repeats". We will then argue about whether 8b+ should be allowed on this thread and have to start another thread....
Really, this is cheap digital real estate, we're not in danger of running out of space any time soon. I don't think people need to agonise so much about what does/doesn't make the cut.

[account_inactive]

My point exactly

[T_B]

Really, this is cheap digital real estate, we're not in danger of running out of space any time soon. I don't think people need to agonise so much about what does/doesn't make the cut.

Yes, of course. You can go round and round on this one a zillion times, but unless you check the thread every day then u miss the Honhold solos etc. Maybe it's time UKB became more than just a series of (very good) long running threads!?

[T_B]

Adam Hocking has repeated Caff's E8 "The Ego has landed" on Eagle Crag, Borrowdale:

http://landandsky.wordpress.com/

[carlisle slapper]

It basically seems like this thread is now a muddle of Significant UK repeats, significant world repeats and significant peak repeats (how it started) and people are starting to get crossed wires over what its saying. So maybe a significant World and UK repeats thread could save the squabbling. As its just as easy to start a new topic as it is a new sentence on a forum and it might save us chickens a good deal of squawking.

Hocks been crushing of late. worth looking at this too: http://landandsky.wordpress.com/

Rob Fielding repeated an E5 (boo not worth reading), which was Second Born at callerhues and hadn't been repeated for 20+years (yay decent stint might be worth the pixels on your monitor). Highball 7A+ Rob


Offtopic:
Soz Tony haven't spoken to Mike about BPSS in a long time and was going off an old convo, Mikes effort was awesome on this, on what is basically an ungradabley huge span to a problem which is indeed harder for the tall, i also think he'll be the shortest person able to do it (without a platform shoe anyhow), which is a rare thing for Mike and as such an proper good effort as it was clearly alot harder for him spanwise than Willenberg. Certainly a bizzare problem which is nails to classify in a grade.

Tom I thought that too (as i've heard 2nd hand thats what Miles called it) but then it's Superboc in the new guide, unless they just copy and pasted from the old one. Superbloc in the froggatt guide though.

dpole and bullshitbooker don't deserve proper nouns, hence why i capitaled all other proper nouns in that post (they also vehemently defend a POV supported by made up facts and statistics), A bit of LMGTFY fact checking would've been nice before posting (or a quick flick through a guidebook, or on pb.info), the dick response is a great one when you've just written something wrong about the person who is correcting you (probs could've gone about it in a nicer way as you were essentially making a point in my favour, but i care more about the effort it took to getting the 2nd ascent of what is one of my fave problems in the UK than whether it's significant or not). The grade i don't care about it might only be 8a (it was given that initially) i was just being a pedant (ic dick) there (sorry). Either way dead horse thoroughly flogged

[clgladiator]

New thread anyone? I keep thinking there are lots of significant repeats happening, but all im reading about is people doing 8c's and an ongoing argument!

[carlisle slapper]

whoops that link was supposed to link to Hocks new route the Keswickian. This thread is 3 years old, give it another 6 years an it should be bouldering 7C+s itself going by the youth of today like Ashima.

[slackline]

New thread anyone? I keep thinking there are lots of significant repeats happening, but all im reading about is people doing 8c's and an ongoing argument!

Don't read them then 

[T_B]

Tom I thought that too (as i've heard 2nd hand thats what Miles called it) but then it's Superboc in the new guide, unless they just copy and pasted from the old one. Superbloc in the froggatt guide though.

I was geeky enough to ask Miles as name querying cropped up once before and he defo said "Superbloc"...

[account_inactive]

carlisle slapper 

[Doylo]

most 8Bs in the UK have had 5 ascents or less except for keen roof and loius armstrong (interesting) and the ace. Hubble was the first 8B, but was on a rope, (first 8B boulder was Isla i think)

5 ascents for Louis Armstrong (3 of them 8b+/c climbers). That's as many as Monks Life isn't it! Don't think any of them quibbled with the grade (Ty upgraded it)

[Fiend]

Hocks been crushing of late. worth looking at this too: http://landandsky.wordpress.com/

Keswickian sounds awesome, that slab at Gouther is great.

[SA Chris]

So new routes are getting into significant repeats as well as lowly 8cs. Tut tut. Standards are dropping, where are the moderators?

[slackline]

"The Ego has Landed" was first climbed by Caff so Hocks ascent is a repeat.

"The Keswickian" is new though.

I think we need a fourth thread for such ambiguous and awkward to categorise reports.

[SA Chris]

"The Ego has Landed" was first climbed by Caff so Hocks ascent is a repeat.

"The Keswickian" is new though.

Thanks slackers, I can't read at all.

[slackline]

Anytime

I'd assumed it was reported in this thread initially by T_B (before carlisle slappers post) because of the repeat, not the new route...

Adam Hocking has repeated Caff's E8 "The Ego has landed" on Eagle Crag, Borrowdale:

http://landandsky.wordpress.com/

[Fiend]

Maybe a thread especially for news reports that include both repeats AND new routes....

Also definitely a seperate thread* for scrawny prepubescent bastards doing the "first ascent of a 8b by a 9 year old" as if having zero body fat, the power to weight ratio of a soldier ant, no fear whatsoever, professional climbing coaches as parents and climbing since they were in nappies makes such a feat at all surprising.

*Preferably located in the Log Pile.

[SA Chris]

I'd assumed it was reported in this thread initially by T_B (before carlisle slappers post) because of the repeat, not the new route...

I'm sure it was. Maybe my postings should come with an "attempt at irony warning".

New tagline methinks.

[slackline]

I'm sure it was. Maybe my postings should come with an "attempt at irony warning".

Perhaps one of these could be incorporated into the smiley sets...

[Rocksteady]

For what it's worth, I'd say that an 8c repeat is significant, simply because only 50ish people from the UK's climbing community have ever done one (see the who's climbed 8c thread).

[shark]

Tut tut. Standards are dropping, where are the moderators?

Out repeating insignificant routes   

[chris_j_s]

Out repeating insignificant routes   

You've done an 8c!! 

[Adam Lincoln]

Easy solution. Ignore the 'insignificant to you stuff' and just take note of 'significant to you' stuff. Everyones a winner. Simples. No?
I for one like to read about 8c's getting repeated. Hell, even 8b+'s are a are event in this country.

 

[ianv]

Personally I think 8c repeats deserve a mention for a number of reasons:

1. 8c is still hard (and few and far between in the UK) and the people doing them ought to be applauded. I am guessing now, but I would venture that an 8c is the UK is likely to be harder to get up than an 8b into an 8a/8a+ pump fest that might be found on certain european crags.
2. The surge in 8c repeats this year suggests that the apparent stagnation in UK sport climbing has come to an end and further proof of this overall improvement a pretty big deal.
3. this site seems more of a community than certain more news orientated sites and I reckon most people would like to know what their friends/acquaintances have been up to.

[JohnM]

I initially assumed that all these 8c news reports were referring to onsights