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significant repeats (Read 4299868 times)

galpinos

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#2200 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2011, 09:12:58 am

Why the chuff do I buy Climb magazine when the artciles are already out of date. No mention of Shauna in the strong girls list. Can't Percy even be bothered be to predict the future?

Shauna - Awesome! Well done.

Jaspersharpe

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#2201 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2011, 09:49:57 am
 :lol: I didn't realise Percy had finalised his list!  :lol:

SA Chris

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#2202 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2011, 10:53:00 am
Did he reference UKB as an information source in the bibliography?

Richie Crouch

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#2203 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2011, 11:42:45 am

Why the chuff do I buy Climb magazine when the artciles are already out of date. No mention of Shauna in the strong girls list. Can't Percy even be bothered be to predict the future?

Shauna - Awesome! Well done.

I recall posting that she should be on it but it was discounted as future potential.

Be interesting to see how long it takes for an 8B ascent!  :popcorn:

shark

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#2204 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2011, 01:13:31 pm
Did he reference UKB as an information source in the bibliography?

Did he fuck

Teaboy

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#2205 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2011, 01:35:43 pm
Possibly just as welll, it sound inaccurate now!

SA Chris

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#2206 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2011, 01:41:49 pm
Although if he had listened to Richie Crouch as above, he would have been seen as an expert pundit.

Jaspersharpe

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#2207 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2011, 01:54:12 pm
This is a prime example of why digital media is taking over from printed. Always behind the game!  ;)

Slide

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Percy B

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#2209 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2011, 08:59:18 pm
Easy, tigers! Shauna was name checked and UKB mentioned in the original article, but both (along with a load of other stuff) was cut out to make it fit between the adverts. Maybe Dave's hit the nail on the head - I might put the uncut version on the CWorks blog at some point. (Best make it soon though as its already out of date!) Nice one, Shauna. :clap2:

Pantontino

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#2210 Re: significant repeats
June 06, 2011, 05:23:28 pm
I saw the scousers in the Cave but didn't catch on that something major had gone down. First proper 8a+ by a British female? Claire Murphy's Hueco ticks were 8a i think.

Brilliant effort, but Pilgrim is down as 8A/+ in the guide (and admittedly given an incorrect description by yours truly.  :-[)

What's changed? - those grades were argued over for months by a big group of people.

If Pilgrim gets 8A+ nowadays I want 7C+ for Rock Atrocity!  :worms:

Adam Lincoln

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#2211 Re: significant repeats
June 06, 2011, 05:27:03 pm
I saw the scousers in the Cave but didn't catch on that something major had gone down. First proper 8a+ by a British female? Claire Murphy's Hueco ticks were 8a i think.

Brilliant effort, but Pilgrim is down as 8A/+ in the guide (and admittedly given an incorrect description by yours truly.  :-[)

What's changed? - those grades were argued over for months by a big group of people.

If Pilgrim gets 8A+ nowadays I want 7C+ for Rock Atrocity!  :worms:

I thought Pilgrim felt the same as In Hell. Obviously same finish too. Would be pretty stern at 8a!

Pantontino

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#2212 Re: significant repeats
June 06, 2011, 05:44:58 pm
Fair enough, although it would be good to hear some more grade opinions as this is obviously an historically important ascent.

The Sausage

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#2213 Re: significant repeats
June 06, 2011, 07:35:59 pm
My opinion, for what it's worth.

Well, firstly, amazing, amazing effort. It's hard, burly, and there's a BIG move to get the Rockiatrocity flake, which I believe Shawna has to jump to (unless she's grown since she did Rockatrocity first time).

No doubt this will dent some egos. Good. I think this is a world class ascent.

Grade-wise: I have tried The Pilgrim a bit. I linked from the start to the start of Rockatrocity, and I believe this is an 18 move 7c+. Add a hard, strenuous 7c to that, and you must get 8a+. It's not like you do a steep 7c+ into a vertical 7c - it's all much the same: Steep, fingery, hard on the core. It's way harder than, say, Staminaband (the only other long-ish problem I've done in that grade range).

I'll certanly put my vote in for solid 8a+. Again, I must emphasize that I haven't done it, or even got that close. Make of that what you will...

Serpico

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#2214 Re: significant repeats
June 06, 2011, 09:05:27 pm
In other news... Ste Mac onsighted the Longridge traverse (Fr8b+) last week :punk:
He managed to get halfway back as well, all sans pads or spotters :bow:

Doylo

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#2215 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2011, 01:26:22 am
It was probably some local who's got it wired who suggested 8a/+.its hard 7c+ into hard 7c I.e.not 8a. Its miles harder than the 8as.consider something like pit of hell (7b+ into 7c).its no easier than other 8a+s like the wire and In hell/in life.

dobbin

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#2216 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2011, 08:51:24 am
Simon, if you said you wanted to put RA up to 7c+ I wouldnt be complaining. Its the hardest 7c I have ever been on!

And the first bit to get to rock attrocity - well, i think its desperate! So - extremely good effort anyone doing it, and especially Shauna for being shorter and the first lady to do so. Blimey. It never fails to amuse when you see her at the wall surrounded by sweaty top off men and she burns them all off. They go a bit crestfallen. Beanie hat + no shirt not such a hot combo now eh punk?

In other news... Ste Mac onsighted the Longridge traverse (Fr8b+) last week :punk:
He managed to get halfway back as well, all sans pads or spotters :bow:

Thats not true. Pedro and Ximenez where spotting him, but they have gone back to spain (where there are no computers) now.

SA Chris

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#2217 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2011, 10:45:25 am
Did he cycle there?

Pantontino

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#2218 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2011, 11:46:12 am
Simon, if you said you wanted to put RA up to 7c+ I wouldnt be complaining. Its the hardest 7c I have ever been on!

Okay, it's a deal then! This armchair climbing is growing on me.  :goodidea:

Probes

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#2219 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2011, 01:03:45 pm
In other news... Ste Mac onsighted the Longridge traverse (Fr8b+) last week :punk:
He managed to get halfway back as well, all sans pads or spotters :bow:

 :yawn:    ;)

 :bow:

Nibile

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#2220 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2011, 03:14:04 pm
after some Googleing i found out i met shauna bouldering at plantation one evening. she was with Adam, cofe, mawson, pasquill and she gave an impressive display of skills and steel nerves when she could not reach the good hold very high on a slab. Fantastic effort in the cave! I'm very impressed!

Johnny Brown

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#2221 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2011, 05:15:36 pm
Don't think that was Shauna as I'm pretty sure I've not met her. Hazel F more likely?

Nibile

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#2222 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2011, 08:56:57 pm
:-) equally impressive!

Control freak

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#2223 Re: significant repeats
June 08, 2011, 04:14:43 am
The female half of team Whittaker has done Austrian Oak, 8b - nice one Lu  :great:

Jaspersharpe

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#2224 Re: significant repeats
June 08, 2011, 08:57:23 am
Good effort!

 

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