significant repeats (Read 4476703 times)

Jaspersharpe · March 23, 2011, 09:07:26 am

Climbing 8A boulder problems at that age is completely unbelievable. OK so she's got weight and finger size on her side but with height, power, lack of experience to build technique AND BEING NINE YEARS OLD against her I think we can give her the ticks. I can remember 5a on Southern Sandstone feeling hard when I was ten.

Fiend · March 23, 2011, 09:13:50 am

That's not what it says in the Power Of Climbing

Jaspersharpe · March 23, 2011, 09:16:23 am

That's because everything in that book is made up. You're only supposed to look at the pictures.

abarro81 · March 23, 2011, 09:59:49 am

Sasha Digiulian has onsighted 8b+. Inspirational and hot...

Nibile · March 23, 2011, 10:11:20 am

Michele has done "The Angel's Share". getting the feeling with the grit, innit?

SA Chris · March 23, 2011, 10:50:14 am

Nice one. Hope the temps don't get too high before he hits his stride.

TomP · March 23, 2011, 11:06:03 am

Get him out the peak and up to Yorkshire!!

butters · March 23, 2011, 12:23:35 pm

Quote from: Nibile on March 23, 2011, 10:11:20 am

Michele has done "The Angel's Share". getting the feeling with the grit, innit?

Pass on my congratulations please Nibs - I bet he was well pleased. He was syked for it on the day I was there and looking solid on the first step up but was struggling to get any higher consistently.

Doylo · March 23, 2011, 08:47:46 pm

Quote from: Jaspersharpe on March 23, 2011, 09:07:26 am

Climbing 8A boulder problems at that age is completely unbelievable. OK so she's got weight and finger size on her side but with height, power, lack of experience to build technique AND BEING NINE YEARS OLD against her I think we can give her the ticks. I can remember 5a on Southern Sandstone feeling hard when I was ten.

Chblanke was 8a+ for years and most still take 8a+. It is definitely easier for shorter climbers as is very bunched but it is very burly too. Not a crimpfest, the crux hold is a pinch which would be very wide for a nine year old hand. Pretty phenomenal performances really!

Jaspersharpe · March 24, 2011, 10:45:48 am

The peg leg ex England keeper has been at it again:

http://novebi.ning.com/group/bleau/forum/topics/angama-coquibus-longs-vaux

Ethan · March 24, 2011, 10:54:55 pm

Another 8c+ for Sasha DiGiulian today, Lucifer this time!

Robsons · March 25, 2011, 11:33:52 am

Sasha DiGiulian is on fire!!!
Who is on for the first 9a from a female?
Daila used to be at the top spot for me...now it is suffice to say Sasha has it...easily!

Somebody's Fool · March 25, 2011, 12:02:15 pm

My money's on josune bereziartu

TomP · March 25, 2011, 12:11:21 pm

Quote from: Somebody's Fool on March 25, 2011, 12:02:15 pm

My money's on josune bereziartu

Hasn't she even climbed 9a+? She was not only the first woman to climb 9a but wasn't she one of the first (maybe first 10 or something) in the world?

SA Chris · March 25, 2011, 12:28:36 pm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Josune_Bereziartu

Def done 9a, no mention of anything harder, but might be out of date.

Paul B · March 25, 2011, 12:43:04 pm

it mentions a route to the right at 9a/+?

TomP · March 25, 2011, 01:09:50 pm

Yeah, she did Bimbaluna, Fred Nicole route, which used to get 9a+. It was 9a+ when she did it but probably got down graded when she did it!!!! DOn't know what the confirmed grade is now though

T_B · March 25, 2011, 01:37:50 pm

I assumed Somebody's Fool was being ironic as Josune climbed Bain de Sang a few years ago now. Was pretty big news at the time, rightly so.

SA Chris · March 25, 2011, 02:03:14 pm

I assumed that too, just confirmed it.

metal arms · March 25, 2011, 02:32:57 pm

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=378&ngroup=2

Calum Muskett E9 repeat.

Good effort that lad.

Doylo · March 26, 2011, 12:06:58 am

Quote from: TomP on March 25, 2011, 01:09:50 pm

Yeah, she did Bimbaluna, Fred Nicole route, which used to get 9a+. It was 9a+ when she did it but probably got down graded when she did it!!!! DOn't know what the confirmed grade is now though

Its a Francoise Nicole route. Think its regarded as 9a/+ now. She also did Logical progression 9a in Japan

monkey boy · March 28, 2011, 11:40:53 pm

Fiend · March 29, 2011, 09:20:47 am

Good effort that girl. Makes my tips sweat thinking how small the holds look.

account_inactive · March 29, 2011, 11:25:51 am

She's not shit is she!

Nibile · March 29, 2011, 08:05:16 pm

Michele did 'balance it is' the other day. it seems like his stay will remain in the records more than mine! :-)