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significant repeats (Read 2935182 times)

willackers

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#1825 Re: significant repeats
January 31, 2011, 07:57:00 pm
I'd heard that I just wondered if Dan thought it was 8a+ or 8b, after having a walk along to take a look I'd say it definitely looks 8b!

Good work anyway!

Nick B

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#1826 Re: significant repeats
January 31, 2011, 08:13:12 pm
Dan thought about 8a+, but he said he wouldn't be surprised if it went down to 8a with a better way of doing the bottom section

monkey boy

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#1827 Re: significant repeats
January 31, 2011, 11:34:14 pm
Micky repeated The Ace today!

Jaspersharpe

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#1828 Re: significant repeats
February 01, 2011, 08:06:16 am
Dan thought about 8a+, but he said he wouldn't be surprised if it went down to 8a with a better way of doing the bottom section

So it's 8B then.

Johnny Brown

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#1829 Re: significant repeats
February 01, 2011, 09:23:11 am
Quote
he said he wouldn't be surprised if it went down to 8a with a better way of doing the bottom section

I think what he means is he struggled on the first move as his thumbs are weak as piss. I believe the Beastmaker 3000 should be better equipped for training the strongest digit.

Paul B

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#1830 Re: significant repeats
February 01, 2011, 09:31:44 am
I do have a vague recollection of a few people attempting to hang from from their thumbs  :whistle:

Johnny Brown

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#1831 Re: significant repeats
February 01, 2011, 09:34:40 am
The thing is you're pulling up into thumbercuts. Not the kind of thing you can train for on a 50 degree board. Yet.

Jaspersharpe

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#1832 Re: significant repeats
February 01, 2011, 09:39:12 am
Iain trained for it by building a replica. If you built a 50 degree replica and trained on that then the actual problem would feel piss. Just like Malc on Hubble. SCIENCE!!!

Stubbs

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#1833 Re: significant repeats
February 01, 2011, 09:45:02 am
Did all your time on grit make the move easy JB?

Johnny Brown

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#1834 Re: significant repeats
February 01, 2011, 09:53:29 am
No, but Bransby PISSED it.

Stubbs

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#1835 Re: significant repeats
February 01, 2011, 10:03:56 am
I heard it was similar to the crux move on the Voie Petit.

monkey boy

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#1836 Re: significant repeats
February 01, 2011, 03:20:46 pm
Mina did Les Beaux Quartiers yesterday! 8a in the forest, everyones dream!

Jaspersharpe

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#1837 Re: significant repeats
February 01, 2011, 03:22:54 pm
That's awesome.

hairich

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#1838 Re: significant repeats
February 01, 2011, 04:07:29 pm
well done mina.she seems to be getting better all the time

Doylo

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#1839 Re: significant repeats
February 01, 2011, 07:13:27 pm
Nice one Dan, Mina and Micky.

uptown

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#1840 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2011, 01:19:53 pm
Well done to Mina - inspiration to us all.
Good effort Dan too. Looks like an amazing problem. Goes to show that Ladders, video beta and BEASTly strength can make desperate problems feel right.
:)

tomtom

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#1841 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2011, 08:28:58 pm
Noticed this on the other channel...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=165352

Chiasmate at Almscliff... never heard of it! not sure if this is the correct thread...

Adam Lincoln

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#1842 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2011, 08:44:26 pm
Noticed this on the other channel...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=165352

Chiasmate at Almscliff... never heard of it! not sure if this is the correct thread...

Its just behind Matterhorn arete. Quite a highball. Gaz did FA i think. fnt 8a?

tomtom

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#1843 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2011, 08:50:10 pm
Noticed this on the other channel...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=165352

Chiasmate at Almscliff... never heard of it! not sure if this is the correct thread...

Its just behind Matterhorn arete. Quite a highball. Gaz did FA i think. fnt 8a?

Thanks, I can think where it is now - just asked as I couldnt find anything out about it - nothing on yorkshiregrit.com or anywhere else!!

Nick B

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#1844 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2011, 09:09:16 pm
Possibly put up by Steve Dunning? Not sure on that... Gaz and Jordan Buys have repeated it. Ned and Micky did it yesterday

Adam Lincoln

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#1845 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2011, 09:10:32 pm
Possibly put up by Steve Dunning? Not sure on that... Gaz and Jordan Buys have repeated it. Ned and Micky did it at the weekend

Just had a txt, it was Steve that did the first ascent. Soz Steve  ;)

Doylo

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#1846 Re: significant repeats
February 02, 2011, 09:34:46 pm
Possibly put up by Steve Dunning? Not sure on that... Gaz and Jordan Buys have repeated it. Ned and Micky did it at the weekend

Just had a txt, it was Steve that did the first ascent. Soz Steve  ;)

People read it and txt you rather than just write on here themselves. UKB must be an intimidating place after all!

shark

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#1847 Re: significant repeats
February 03, 2011, 09:54:49 am
It's happening again...

Italian Tito Traversa has climbed "Je est un autre" at Castillon his first 8b though it might be 8b+

He's 9  :o

SA Chris

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#1848 Re: significant repeats
February 03, 2011, 09:59:57 am
I used to try and climb the same grade as my age (kept it up for a while but I failed once is was 27) but climbing 8a at age 8 is crazy. Bet he won't keep it up though....

Will Hunt

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#1849 Re: significant repeats
February 03, 2011, 10:51:23 am
Good God.

Is it just me or does he look a little ginger? Could he the the Ron to Ondra's Harry? When's Hermione coming along? Does that make Chris Bonnington Dumbledore? I guess one of the Borg leaders can be Voldemort.

 

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